METEOR SHOWER!!

Well here's mine from last night, Was my first attempt so will be reading how to improve!

Nice :thumbs:

You should get meteors showing using the startrails software.
I think the meteors are supposed to be best when looking North East.
My celestial stuff isn't that good, but looking NE I'd expect the trails to be more circular.

Here's one I took looking North East earlier in the year. You can see satellite flashes and aeroplane trails; if there had been meteors then I'm certain they would have been included.
 
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Loads of clouds last night:| Luckily, I'd anticipated this and gone out the night before.

Perseids%20Trail.jpg


You can just about see a tiny meteor trail on the left-hand side of the image.

Perseid_20120811_001.jpg
 
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The BBC weather just said it'll be clearest over in the east tonight for meteor spotting, but the west will have increasing cloud, followed by rain.
 
Nothing from me tonight, just as I left home town and went onto the dual carriageway noticed both dim lights have gone :bonk:
 
Nice shots Frank! Did you use deepskystacker? Can I ask what settings you used pls?!?

I used my 11-16mm at 11mm. Manual exposure of 20 seconds at f2.8 and ISO 1600. Shot 220 raw images, extracted the embedded jpegs and ran them through Startrails.de to combine them.

The single meteor image was processed using Lightroom.
 
Sat in my back garden, clouds have jusy cleared which is nice, have visually seen some, just got to capture them now :) some photos are coming out blurry, what could that be down to?
 
I used my 11-16mm at 11mm. Manual exposure of 20 seconds at f2.8 and ISO 1600. Shot 220 raw images, extracted the embedded jpegs and ran them through Startrails.de to combine them.

The single meteor image was processed using Lightroom.

thanks!

I got fed up after ~40 exposures!! Well done!!
 
Some go slow ish, and some are like excessively fast, anyone else seen that?
 
http://sat24.com/ is your friend! you can predict coming weather so plan when you can go out or more importantly when to stay in!
 
Didnt know about that one, I tend to use the met office one and having just tried the sat24 one I think I'll stick with it to be honest, it seems very jumpy and glitchy on my computer
 
Here's my first attempt, rubbish i guess but still a record of the event :lol:


Meteor by Cliff 'O', on Flickr

I was quite lucky with the composition as it is uncropped from the camera :thumbs:

Thanks for looking
Atb
Cliff
 
'Twas cloudy again last night in this part of the world. Tonight isn't looking too promising either.
 
this is my personal best.

I didnt use PW MultiMax as intervalometer - in a rush I didn't get the right cable for the job. So end up press the button every 35 seconds (30secs explosure, 5seconds break - I should not do that)

This is 39 photos stack up.

the meteor at 12 o'clock are from two frames, not sure if they are the same one - common sense says no, but I am not sure for such coincident.

There were more meteors than I can shoot, many just too fast too dimmed.


perseid meteor shower (英仙座/狮子座流星雨) by Jing Photography, on Flickr
 
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Peter Cheers I will have a look tonight. Some are just too dimmed. There should be at least another one in the #178 stack
 
The weather is looking promising here too although I'm not going to anywhere dark, the back garden will have to do.
 
I'm working tonight...And it's cloudy here..:(

Lets hope it clears later
 
Caught a few, and caught the ISS as well. Will process them tomorrow as I'm beat now. :)
 
rich, cant wait to see ISS. It hovered passed so fast before I setup tripod
 
this is my personal best.

I didnt use PW MultiMax as intervalometer - in a rush I didn't get the right cable for the job. So end up press the button every 35 seconds (30secs explosure, 5seconds break - I should not do that)


My camera takes aprox 35 seconds to "save" or whatever. so when I press the shutter 30 secs for photo then cant do anything for aprox 35 secs until the photo shows up on screen. I thought this was normal but yours takes 5 seconds lol ??
 
Quickshooter said:
My camera takes aprox 35 seconds to "save" or whatever. so when I press the shutter 30 secs for photo then cant do anything for aprox 35 secs until the photo shows up on screen. I thought this was normal but yours takes 5 seconds lol ??

Sounds like long exposure noise reduction, turn it off and see what happens.
 
My camera takes aprox 35 seconds to "save" or whatever. so when I press the shutter 30 secs for photo then cant do anything for aprox 35 secs until the photo shows up on screen. I thought this was normal but yours takes 5 seconds lol ??

Sounds like long exposure noise reduction, turn it off and see what happens.
I reckon that's it as well.

Just processing mine from last night, something weird happened to the photos as the time went on, it was like a blob of condensation or something developed on the lens.
 
Just processing mine from last night, something weird happened to the photos as the time went on, it was like a blob of condensation or something developed on the lens.

That's quite normal with night time exposures.
The timelapse bunch sometimes use pretty extreme measures to combat the problem.
I've heard of people using a shielded Coleman Lamp under the camera, banding hand warmers onto the camera body and even someone who used the exhaust from their car to keep the camera warm :gag:
An open window or doorway seems to work, as does a fishing shelter.

Edited to add...
There is some discussion about this over in the TP Timelapse thread.
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=418416
 
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My camera takes aprox 35 seconds to "save" or whatever. so when I press the shutter 30 secs for photo then cant do anything for aprox 35 secs until the photo shows up on screen. I thought this was normal but yours takes 5 seconds lol ??

It was just me (sigh...) being first time stargazer, I deliberately paused a few seconds between frames (which I shouldn't), also adding 2seconds that triggered use self-timer. Failing the intervalometer solution I should have use a remote control. hence you see the dots, rather than a very smooth line.
 
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That's quite normal with night time exposures.
The timelapse bunch sometimes use pretty extreme measures to combat the problem.
I've heard of people using a shielded Coleman Lamp under the camera, banding hand warmers onto the camera body and even someone who used the exhaust from their car to keep the camera warm :gag:
An open window or doorway seems to work, as does a fishing shelter.

Edited to add...
There is some discussion about this over in the TP Timelapse thread.
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=418416

Cheers for the info Duncan! I've been interested in long exposures and time lapse for a while and after last night I've hooked!
Ordered an intervalometer and I will have a good read of that thread, good to know that it is there if I have any questions!
 
Cheers for the info Duncan! I've been interested in long exposures and time lapse for a while and after last night I've hooked!
Ordered an intervalometer and I will have a good read of that thread, good to know that it is there if I have any questions!

Take a look at Magic Lantern, it may negate the need for an independant intervalometer if that is something you want to try.

There is a version for the 5DMKII, newly released yesterday. It has a built in intervalometer and a bulb ramper(for dark to light/light to dark sequences etc).

It's free but donations are always appreciated.
 
Take a look at Magic Lantern, it may negate the need for an independant intervalometer if that is something you want to try.

There is a version for the 5DMKII, newly released yesterday. It has a built in intervalometer and a bulb ramper(for dark to light/light to dark sequences etc).

It's free but donations are always appreciated.

For many reasons, a cheap intervalometer is a great investment.
For example, I've used mine to take a group shot with the following recipe - wait two mins, then take 10 shots two seconds apart. This gave me long enough to climb back up to the group and we used a phone to judge when the shots were being taken.

I've been thinking about trying ML as it also offers motion detection good enough to capture lightning and focus peaking which would be useful with my tilt-shift lens.

I haven't given it a go as a lot of the good stuff has been waiting on this release.
At the moment, the documentation is rubbish, but I'm sure that will change!
And there is always the big catch stated in the Important Notes section of the Installation Guide "And, remember that this software can damage or destroy your camera."
 
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