Medium Format

Sir SR said:
I've just been holding it, listening to the clunk and looking into the ground glass viewer!!

It's quite magical.
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I know what you mean. I got my Hasselblad back from repair on Saturday and I walked around Manchester watching the world through ground glass.
 
gazmorton2000 said:
I know what you mean. I got my Hasselblad back from repair on Saturday and I walked around Manchester watching the world through ground glass.
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This is a silly question. The focus screen but in the middle. Errr. How does that work??
 
Sir SR said:
I did indeed. In very good condition, lovely leatherette case and box!!
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Yep, it sounds like mine, as it's a fairly rare lens. It's an absolutely fantastic performer. Between the camera, lens, and myself, I was always the weakest link.








Heck, I even used it for photos for the classifieds section, as I don't own a digital camera:
 
skysh4rk said:
Yep, it sounds like mine, as it's a fairly rare lens. It's an absolutely fantastic performer. Between the camera, lens, and myself, I was always the weakest link.








Heck, I even used it for photos for the classifieds section, as I don't own a digital camera:
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Have to ask, why on earth did you sell it!!?
 
Sir SR said:
This is a silly question. The focus screen but in the middle. Errr. How does that work??
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In the very middle should be a split image, which is in focus when the lines match up. Surrounding that is usually a micro prism (assuming you have the standard screen), which goes clear when all is in focus.

Outside of the middle is just the plain screen, which is in focus when things look sharp. I typically used the outside and took the photograph when my subject looked sharpest, but it's all down to personal preference. I recommend lots of practice.
 
skysh4rk said:
In the very middle should be a split image, which is in focus when the lines match up. Surrounding that is usually a micro prism (assuming you have the standard screen), which goes clear when all is in focus.

Outside of the middle is just the plain screen, which is in focus when things look sharp. I typically used the outside and took the photograph when my subject looked sharpest, but it's all down to personal preference. I recommend lots of practice.
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I guessed that when the middle bit was all as one it would be near enough in focus.

I'm very excited. Just wish I wasn't working nights at the mo[emoji107]
 
Sir SR said:
Have to ask, why on earth did you sell it!!?
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If I shot more portraits, especially with flash, I would have kept it, but I wasn't using it enough to justify keeping it. I primarily was using it during the Christmas season every year for people photos, but mostly using normal or slightly-longer-than-normal lenses for the other 11 months.

Basically, I like to keep my camera and lens collection trim.
 
Sir SR said:
I guessed that when the middle bit was all as one it would be near enough in focus.

I'm very excited. Just wish I wasn't working nights at the mo[emoji107]
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Keep in mind that depth of field will be very thin for 6x6cm cameras. At the minimum focus distance for the 180mm, for instance, the depth of field will only be 1cm at f/4.5!

It might take a bit of practice to get to grips with everything, but the time and effort is worth it. Technique (e.g., handling, stability, focusing, etc.) is critical with medium format, so just hang in there and you will be rewarded.
 
skysh4rk said:
Keep in mind that depth of field will be very thin for 6x6cm cameras. At the minimum focus distance for the 180mm, for instance, the depth of field will only be 1cm at f/4.5!

It might take a bit of practice to get to grips with everything, but the time and effort is worth it. Technique (e.g., handling, stability, focusing, etc.) is critical with medium format, so just hang in there and you will be rewarded.
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Just from handling the Bronica, for shots with studio lights, I'm thinking a tripod would be sensible! Initially at least!

I guess as with all other lenses, better stopped down a bit?
 
Sir SR said:
Just from handling the Bronica, for shots with studio lights, I'm thinking a tripod would be sensible! Initially at least!

I guess as with all other lenses, better stopped down a bit?
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Can't comment on the Bronica but I hardly ever stop down on any lenses. The Contax gets shot at f2.0, the Leica at f2.0 and the Hasselblad at f2.8.

I'm sure pixel peepers and critical sharpness folks will make the argument about physics and how it's a fact that lenses are 'better' when stopped down. Once I stopped caring about stuff like that, the happier I was with shooting and photography in general. :)
 
gazmorton2000 said:
Can't comment on the Bronica but I hardly ever stop down on any lenses. The Contax gets shot at f2.0, the Leica at f2.0 and the Hasselblad at f2.8.

I'm sure pixel peepers and critical sharpness folks will make the argument about physics and how it's a fact that lenses are 'better' when stopped down. Once I stopped caring about stuff like that, the happier I was with shooting and photography in general. :)
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I went into West Yorkshire Cameras today and decided not to even hold the Hasselblad!! Scared I might like it too much. Besides I knew they had the 180 f4.5 for the bronica in stock so I thought that would be a great combo together with the 80 f2.8

Looked at the mamiya but thought metering compensating for the bellows would fry my noodle too much!

Can't wait to start!!
 
Sir SR said:
This is a silly question. The focus screen but in the middle. Errr. How does that work??
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There's a magnifying lens tucked into the top of the WLF shield for the focus screen. Pop that out and use it to obtain critical focus, then fold it away and compose on the screen before shooting.
 
ancient_mariner said:
There's a magnifying lens tucked into the top of the WLF shield for the focus screen. Pop that out and use it to obtain critical focus, then fold it away and compose on the screen before shooting.
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Thanks!! I've actually got an instruction manual with the SQA. I suspect I might just have to RTFM.

Compared to digital, how much leeway is there with the DR? I shoot with a d750/d800
 
Sir SR said:
Thanks!! I've actually got an instruction manual with the SQA. I suspect I might just have to RTFM.

Compared to digital, how much leeway is there with the DR? I shoot with a d750/d800
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Around the same (12-14 stops) with negative film except flipped over so highlights have a lot of leeway, shadows not so much. If in doubt, err on the side of overexposure.
 
Sir SR said:
I guess as with all other lenses, better stopped down a bit?
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Almost all of the shots that I posted above with the 180mm lens were shot wide open. The exceptions are the tight head shot, as depth of field would have been too narrow otherwise, and the waterfall, as I wanted a longish exposure for the water.

I would not hesitate to shoot wide open with any of the Bronica lenses.
 
skysh4rk said:
Almost all of the shots that I posted above with the 180mm lens were shot wide open. The exceptions are the tight head shot, as depth of field would have been too narrow otherwise, and the waterfall, as I wanted a longish exposure for the water.

I would not hesitate to shoot wide open with any of the Bronica lenses.
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I got the 180 because of its min focussing distance. The 150 is 1.5m whereas the 180 was 1m.

Thanks for the examples and reassurance about shooting wide open!!
 
Sir SR said:
I got the 180 because of its min focussing distance. The 150 is 1.5m whereas the 180 was 1m.

Thanks for the examples and reassurance about shooting wide open!!
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Yeah, that's why I had originally bought the 180mm as well. Enjoy!


Sir SR said:
I went into West Yorkshire Cameras today and decided not to even hold the Hasselblad!! Scared I might like it too much. Besides I knew they had the 180 f4.5 for the bronica in stock so I thought that would be a great combo together with the 80 f2.8
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I've owned and put many rolls through both systems; I can't tell the results apart. Both systems have their pluses and minuses. There's a big price premium on the Hasselblad, however, and, for that reason, I feel that the SQ series is simply a much better buy, unless you need a specific accessory/feature that only the Hasselblad V-series offers.
 
Sir SR said:
Looked at the mamiya but thought metering compensating for the bellows would fry my noodle too much!
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You'd not need to worry about the bellows compensation until you're focused very close but it doesn't really matter now.
 
how do the Bronica ETRS and Bronica ETRSi compare to others are they still good or not in the same league. always seems to be a fair few around
 
niko said:
how do the Bronica ETRS and Bronica ETRSi compare to others are they still good or not in the same league. always seems to be a fair few around
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How do they compare in terms of what and to what?

In terms of image quality, they're very good and on the same level as the Bronica SQ series. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use the ETR series in this regard.

In terms of handling, I think that they are fine compared to other native 6x4.5 cameras, as the speed grip accessory is nice, but I find that the SQ series, although technically bigger, is actually easier to handle and smaller in practice because it's easier to use with a waist level finder (because you don't need to turn a 6x6cm square frame for verticals). There are frame lines on the standard SQ series focusing screen for cropping to 6x4.5 from 6x6cm. This argument is true of many other 6x6cm cameras, including TLRs, although you'll no longer be viewing through the lens for those, and the Hasselblad V-series, for which you'll incur significantly higher costs than for any Bronica model.

The ETR series really requires a speed grip and prism finder to facilitate portrait orientation, which then makes its standard configuration much bigger and bulkier. The SQ series also has the option of shooting 6x4.5 with a 6x4.5 back, although you'd then run into the issue of always needing a speed grip and prism finder there too.

It really depends on your needs whether those cameras will suit.
 
skysh4rk said:
How do they compare in terms of what and to what?

In terms of image quality, they're very good and on the same level as the Bronica SQ series. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use the ETR series in this regard.

In terms of handling, I think that they are fine compared to other native 6x4.5 cameras, as the speed grip accessory is nice, but I find that the SQ series, although technically bigger, is actually easier to handle and smaller in practice because it's easier to use with a waist level finder (because you don't need to turn a 6x6cm square frame for verticals). There are frame lines on the standard SQ series focusing screen for cropping to 6x4.5 from 6x6cm. This argument is true of many other 6x6cm cameras, including TLRs, although you'll no longer be viewing through the lens for those, and the Hasselblad V-series, for which you'll incur significantly higher costs than for any Bronica model.

The ETR series really requires a speed grip and prism finder to facilitate portrait orientation, which then makes its standard configuration much bigger and bulkier. The SQ series also has the option of shooting 6x4.5 with a 6x4.5 back, although you'd then run into the issue of always needing a speed grip and prism finder there too.

It really depends on your needs whether those cameras will suit.
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fantastic, just what i was looking for, thank you very much.
 
The ETR is fine, but as said, it works most easily as a walk-about camera with speedgrip & prism (both of which I have). When it's tripod mounted there's much less temptation to do portrait oriented shots, and the WLF is fine (though bulk doesn't matter at that stage). TBH even with the prism & grip it's probably still lighter than a big Nikon FF, and handles better too.
 
ancient_mariner said:
The ETR is fine, but as said, it works most easily as a walk-about camera with speedgrip & prism (both of which I have). When it's tripod mounted there's much less temptation to do portrait oriented shots, and the WLF is fine (though bulk doesn't matter at that stage). TBH even with the prism & grip it's probably still lighter than a big Nikon FF, and handles better too.
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thank you very much
 
I bought an ETRS a few months ago with a metered prism and speed grip to use as a walk about camera, as I didn't want to have to keep using a handheld meter. It's definitely one of the easiest cameras to use out of the ones I own, and the focus screen is the best by far as it's very bright and clear. I took it on holiday and used 13 rolls of film on it, and I was very happy. When you've added a grip and prism it's a bit of a beast, although I managed to walk over 54 miles in 6 days with it with no problem
 
Carl Hall said:
I bought an ETRS a few months ago with a metered prism and speed grip to use as a walk about camera, as I didn't want to have to keep using a handheld meter. It's definitely one of the easiest cameras to use out of the ones I own, and the focus screen is the best by far as it's very bright and clear. I took it on holiday and used 13 rolls of film on it, and I was very happy. When you've added a grip and prism it's a bit of a beast, although I managed to walk over 54 miles in 6 days with it with no problem
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thank you, mind you its not getting easier to stick to my "no more cameras are needed"
 
Carl Hall said:
I bought an ETRS a few months ago with a metered prism and speed grip to use as a walk about camera, as I didn't want to have to keep using a handheld meter. It's definitely one of the easiest cameras to use out of the ones I own, and the focus screen is the best by far as it's very bright and clear. I took it on holiday and used 13 rolls of film on it, and I was very happy. When you've added a grip and prism it's a bit of a beast, although I managed to walk over 54 miles in 6 days with it with no problem
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One of the best view screens you can buy and a very easy to use camera. They say it is entry MF,but,in my opinion that is because of the price. Progress into the 60,50 and 40mm lenses and it is a whole different ball game. To me this is 645(ETRSi) at it,s best.(y)
 
medwaygreen said:
One of the best view screens you can buy and a very easy to use camera. They say it is entry MF,but,in my opinion that is because of the price. Progress into the 60,50 and 40mm lenses and it is a whole different ball game. To me this is 645(ETRSi) at it,s best.(y)
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Definitely, I bought mine as the complete kit for around £200 which is so much camera for the money. I've only got the 75mm lens at the moment but I'd like something a bit longer at some point. I took loads of photos in New York and the photos (which are here if anyones interested) came out fantastic. The best thing is that extra backs and lenses can be bought at a fraction of the cost of some of the premium brands. In fact I reckon could buy a complete ETRS kit for the the price of a single lower end Hasselblad lens.
 
Carl Hall said:
Definitely, I bought mine as the complete kit for around £200 which is so much camera for the money. I've only got the 75mm lens at the moment but I'd like something a bit longer at some point. I took loads of photos in New York and the photos (which are here if anyones interested) came out fantastic. The best thing is that extra backs and lenses can be bought at a fraction of the cost of some of the premium brands. In fact I reckon could buy a complete ETRS kit for the the price of a single lower end Hasselblad lens.
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Yes,but,when you have the Hasselblad kit,I have three bodies and six lenses,you know that you have to use them,which at the moment I do not.

I still love to carry the Bronica,it just feels so good.:)
 
Bad Shaheed! ;)

Don't muck around with colour at first, get some proper B&W film (Acros would be my choice) and get going. I gave a load of expired film to my dad the other day- I can retrieve some if you want for you to practice with!

And everyone knows squares are best!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/c5qnpu]Acros thru Rolleiflex T-11.jpg by Jim Swales, on Flickr[/URL]
 
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