Maximum shutter speed 1/250?

mrbez

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Hi Guys,

When using my 430exii, why can I not increase the shutter speed past 1/250?

Also, I have read that with a flash, the camera final image is 2 exposures? One with light from the flash, and one with ambient light?

If this is the case, say I shot a long exposure outside, but with a person in the foreground, and I set the shutter speed to 3 seconds, if the person moved after the flash fired, would they be blurred out?

Regards.
 
Hi Guys,

When using my 430exii, why can I not increase the shutter speed past 1/250?

Because that's the maximum sync speed. Essentially, the fastest the flash can fire and not get the shutter appearing in the exposure.

Also, I have read that with a flash, the camera final image is 2 exposures? One with light from the flash, and one with ambient light?

If this is the case, say I shot a long exposure outside, but with a person in the foreground, and I set the shutter speed to 3 seconds, if the person moved after the flash fired, would they be blurred out?

Regards.

Depends, if they're not going to be lit by the ambient (like it's night time) them only the flash illuminates them and they're sharp.

2.5 sec exposure, flash fired on rear curtain.


 
Well, it's not two exposures, it's one exposure of both flash and ambient light - don't know about Canon, but with Nikon you can use HSS (High Speed Sync) mode, which enables you to shoot up to the maximum shutter speed of your camera, but at the cost of a lot of power.

For the person in a three second exposure, you would probably set the flash to rear curtain sync mode, which means it fires at the end of the exposure rather than the flash first then waiting three seconds with the person standing perfectly still.
 
Okay, so in that picture, did the subject move out of the frame after the flash fired then?
 
In that stance for 2 1/2 seconds?

Why has he not blurred at all?
 
In that stance for 2 1/2 seconds?

Why has he not blurred at all?

Because he is only lit by the flash, which is a burst of light a fraction of a second long, which was fired just before the shutter closed - not immediately after it opened light in most flash photographs. Any ambient light that may have lit him before the flash, in this instance, wasn't strong enough to make an impact on the exposure.
 
Picture this.

Normal flash:
Shutter opens--Flash fires--Wait 3 seconds--Shutter closes

Rear Curtain Flash(a.k.a 2nd curtain/slow sync)
Shutter opens--Wait 3 seconds--Flash fires--Shutter closes
 
If the above picture was with normal flash, would it look totally different?

How do I set a 430exii to rear curtain?

Sorry for all of the questions.
 
2nd curtain sync really comes into its own when the main subject is lit with ambiet light and flash and there is movement.

Have you seen the famous photo technique, where on a pool table they break the balls and you can see the movement of the balls and a frozen image at the end of the blur?

If fact i found it here you go...
http://www.sony.ca/html/uf/microsite/Flash_Minisite/2-2.html

In the pic you asked about im not sure how much 2nd curtain affected the outcome, but im prepared to be put right, if anyone else knows for sure?

Also notice on said pic, you can see the chaps right shoulder is see through, thats because the ambient light hitting that area was sufficient enough to compete with what the flash captured. The suit being black adds to that effect also, because it doesnt reflect the flash like say the face would.

Hope that helps.
 
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Rear curtain flash is a lot more useful when you have ambient light and movement; movement trails behind the subject rather than in front, which is more natural.

I'm pretty sure you can set it from your camera, check the flash menu.
 
Doesnt the 430 have a fast shutter speed setting? If it does you can go above 1/250th. The 420 does so I'd be very surprised if the 430 doesnt, its on the rh side rear indicated by a lightening bolt on the 420. When it fires it looks like its "strobbing"

Matt
 
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To understand flash sync, you need to know how a focal plane shutter works. Basically, it runs at just one speed, and different exposure times are created by altering the duration between when the first curtain runs down over the frame, and the timing gap before the second curtain follows. Google it and you'll find a few graphics to explain.

What this means is that at higher speeds, above 1/250sec on a 40D, the second curtain starts to cover the sensor again before the first curtain has reached the bottom. If a flash is fired then, you get a dark band across the picture. The higher the speed, the bigger the dark band. Only at 1/250sec and longer is the whole sensor uncovered at one time.

Bear in mind that the flash duration is very short - anything between 1/1000sec and 1/30,000sec depending on the power output. That's how the camera is able to squeeze it in to the tiny 'window' when the whole of the sensor is uncovered by the shutter.

From this you will also see that there are indeed two exposures happening simultaneously - the ambient exposure which is the shutter speed set (1/250sec or longer) and the flash exposure which is much shorter at 1/1000sec or less.

To get over x-sync problems, the 430EX has a high speed sync mode which alters the way the flash fires, and pulses it very rapidly. It is able to keep this pulsing going long enough for the shutter to complete a full cycle, regardless of the timing of the curtains, so it works at high shutter speeds where normal flash cannot. It's not actually flash in that respect, but continuous light - a bit like switching a room light on when you press the shutter release, and turning it off again immediately after. The downside is that HSS wastes most of the light, which falls on the shutter curtains instead of the sensor, and therefore range is substantially reduced. It is very handy for close shooting in bright sun though, for fill-in flash etc.

Some folks seem to think that second curtain sync is some kind of magic bullet with slow-sync flash (so-called 'dragging the shutter'). It is not, and usually it is best avoided. Second curtain sync is useful only when a) you have a long shutter speed to get some ambient light in there, b) there is movement which creates ambient light blur, and c) the direction of that movement is important (it usually isn't). The downside of using second curtain sync when you don't need it is that it makes the timing of the flash less predictable so you can miss out on expressions or actions.
 
As posted before, 1/250 is usually the maximum with speedlights. On some camera models (Such as D700) you can bump it to 1/320 but your risking half the image being under exposed.
You don't usually need anything above 250 anyway. Light has the abilty to freeze things, I normally shoot skateboarders dropping from 15ft half pipes and they all come out crisp sharp.
Might be a different story if your shooting something moving 150mph though lol.
 
As posted before, 1/250 is usually the maximum with speedlights. On some camera models (Such as D700) you can bump it to 1/320 but your risking half the image being under exposed.
You don't usually need anything above 250 anyway. Light has the abilty to freeze things, I normally shoot skateboarders dropping from 15ft half pipes and they all come out crisp sharp.
Might be a different story if your shooting something moving 150mph though lol.

There's no risk - if you shoot at 1/320sec with regular flash on a D700 you will get part of the image completely without any flash exposure at all.

You sometimes do need to use over 1/250sec with flash, when the ambient light level is high, or you want to use a low f/number for shallow DoF, such as with fill-in flash. That's what high speed sync was invented for, I use it a lot (Nikon call it FP sync).
 
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