Manual Or Semi Auto

T

TragicDante

Suspended / Banned
Messages
38
Name
Jonathan
Edit My Images
Yes
I’ve shot fully manual for three years now after moving from aperture and shutter priority modes. Its worked well for me in the environmental portrait environment and of course in the studio where I do all my work. Recently I’ve received job offers outside the careless comforts of my studio and have been asked to do a few birthdays for kids in their home environment. Now shooting 30 crazy kids is a different ball game, maybe even a different sport! My photographer friends keep telling me switch to AP mode, it’s quicker and easier. So for the last few days I have and I find it quicker yes, but I’m just not as happy with the results, I find my manual exposures better! Should I just adjust to AP mode for its speed or stick with manual for better exposures but a slightly slower exposure rate?

Hope this makes sense J thanks in advance

D3 - 50 1.8
D60 18-200 5.6
 
aperture priority used to be my steadfast setting
now its programme
manual on very technical occassions...i too use and like spot metering

its not cut in stone when you set the dial...you are still in control if you have a metering/focus lock facility on the shutter release...the first soft touch..
 
What is it about the results from A that you are not happy with?

All that using A or S does is get the meter to give you a happy medium for the first parameter that you have set (so either the chosen aperture, or the chosen shutter speed). If the happy average is not what you are after you will know which side of it you would prefer, so just dial it in using the exp comp button. I do this all the time, knowing the camera will just go for the safe middle ground, but if you want to be on the edge, at least you know which side of the middle you want to be, which edge if you like, so just bias the camera to that side for the shot, then put it back again. The exp comp is usually put where it is easy to use. I call this way of working, "manual average" in that I am getting the camera to do the maths for me, but on my own terms, not just accepting its answer as gospel. You would be surprised at just how quickly you will come to gauge the comp needed - you have to learn how the camera sees things. Shoot RAW and the tiny tweeks needed between the exposure shot and what you would prefer can be done at the conversion stage. If you are shooting straight to jpeg, then you will just have to learn it a bit faster - trial and error.

The clients don't know the difference between what is in front of them and what you had in your mind, so don't tell them. That way it is only you who is upset, but you can learn from every exposure you make and tweak it better the next time.
 
Interesting view points. I'll keep these in mind.

Being a beginner myself I tend to use Aperture Priority simply for ease of use, but I switch to manual when I'm looking to get a certain effect or a specific exposure.
 
I prefer manual when the conditions are more or less constant (like indoors with no bright windows), using flash as the main source of light OR when the subject is big and very dark / bright.

I don't see much problem with Av mode. I can't be asked to use M most of the time, as camera meter is so good. When I aim for the most accurate results, I use spot meter, look for the areas that are closest to 18% grey equivalent and lock the exposure. Otherwise when I have to meter from dark / bright areas, I use exposure compensation setting. I review my histogram on the viewfinder and make further adjustments if needed. Failing that a decent RAW file can be pushed or darkened 1 stop quite well.

I think it should only take a couple days to familiarise with your metering system, but maybe a bit more to do it all intuitively.
 
Why make life difficult? If you're happier with full manual control (and to be honest it sounds like you are) then use it. And if you get a slower exposure rate so what?

To be fair, every mode has it's uses. But it's not worth losing any sleep over it.

cheers
 
Red Rage

I love Lightroom2, truly awesome program, I love the speedy workflow, superb. I love it more than cheap red wine from Tesco and that’s a lot. I just cant seem to get the same colour as I can from my old friend cs3. There’s always to much red of a cast in every photo. I do high key portraits with a D3 in RAW, Blond hair always became slightly ginger, the skin tones slightly to pink, even when I pull back my contrast, sat and hue. When I load the raw into cs3 its fine! What am I doing wrong, my white balance is fine, is true skin tones to much to ask for?
Do my studio strobes bring out the gingerness in innocent blonds? God help us all!!!!!
 
I think the 'P' mode can be more useful than most think
You can see the reading and adjust it up or down so setting what F stop or speed you want in a way it like aperture and speed both together.
Hope you understand what I am saying, it like if the speed is not what you want dial it up or down f-stop will changes to match or if you want a F-stop then dial it up or down and the speed will also be set.
It can be good as a walkabout mode.
 
Chaz Photos said:
I think the 'P' mode can be more useful than most think
Click to expand...

It adds unnecessary step of readjusting the settings every time you take a photo. This can be VERY annoying and is really a step back to point and miss mode.

Re Lightroom, make sure the WB is adjusted using both Blue/Yellow and Green/Magenta sliders. It sounds like you have too much magenta. Also double check the screen calibration.
 
I'd like to use fully manual more often, but the only time I find myself using it is if I'm using flash or doing something experimental where time isn't tight and I've got a bit of freedom to do what I want. If I need to guarantee I get the shots that I want then I'll stick to aperture or shutter priority and adjust from there. I don't like the idea of missing a shot because I was too busy tweaking settings.

I think that if you're under pressure and shooting something unpredictable then go with what you're comfortable with. If you're not comfortable shooting one way, switch to something else but make sure you're focused on the action rather than overly on your camera settings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top