Manual Focusing at Night

Peter69

Peter69

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I've just got back from Stonehenge and had to creep up to the stones commando fashion as they were stopping us get to them at the equinox.

Getting to the stones was easy (although being blacked up with a back pack and tripod may have caused some issues) but focusing on the stones was quite hard. I have a D5100 and I found it very hard to see the stones in the dark.

Any tips?

For additional info I have had eye correction surgery 20years ago so suffer from star burst when its really dark with a light source i.e. lights in viewfinder
 
It's a difficult one as I'm guessing from the way that you've discribed the situation your not going to be able to shine a torch on the subject to allow auto focus...you've really only got manual focus and then high ISO test shots...and then adjusting the focus as required...if your lens has a focus window on it showing a range you can use this to get you about right from the get go, it's slow but it will get you there :thumbs:
 
Thanks. It does have a window but again unable to use a light to see the numbers. Even the 'click' and little green light (noise reduction processing) was too much really.
I will post a pic to show an example of my failure.
 
If you're using a tripod you could afford longer exposures. You could estimate the distance and use the aperture to get some leeway from the depth of field. You then use the distance scale on the lens - although it's a shame most modern lenses don't have this.
 
Hmm, not tried it but liveview, zoom them manual focus?
 
JohnN said:
Hmm, not tried it but liveview, zoom them manual focus?
Click to expand...

Wouldn't really recommend it as I've found it to be not overly accurate in the past as zooming in focusing and then zooming back out your optics are in a different position thus messing up the focus, live view and focus by all means certainly works especially live view zoom :thumbs:
 
I thought that was shake but though it couldnt be as it was on a tripod. perhaps the tripod wasn't seated securly in the long grass?

Live view wasn't an option as I would have been seen.

The lens did have VC(Tamron 18-270)

I wish the display had an option to be red.
 
Peter69 said:
I thought that was shake but though it couldnt be as it was on a tripod. perhaps the tripod wasn't seated securly in the long grass?

Live view wasn't an option as I would have been seen.

The lens did have VC(Tamron 18-270)

I wish the display had an option to be red.
Click to expand...

You need VR off when on the tripod, long grass is not tripod friendly...what tripod were you using..some tripods are sadly lacking in there ability to do what they're supposed to do :shrug:
 
MWHCVT said:
Wouldn't really recommend it as I've found it to be not overly accurate in the past as zooming in focusing and then zooming back out your optics are in a different position thus messing up the focus, live view and focus by all means certainly works especially live view zoom :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Sorry, I meant using the zoom on liveview not the lens, that way you can see if the edges are sharp.

I did it once when taking a moon shot now I think of it, but then its well lit, works well for macro too.
 
JohnN said:
Sorry, I meant using the zoom on liveview not the lens, that way you can see if the edges are sharp.

I did it once when taking a moon shot now I think of it, but then its well lit, works well for macro too.
Click to expand...

Fair enough :thumbs:
 
Normally I'd use Liveview in a situation like this - but you've said that wasn't possible. Manual focussing in low light isn't easy given the focussing screens on most AF cameras isn't geared for that. Don't know the specifics for your model of camera but sometimes you can get replacement screens that make manual focussing easier.

In your situation I'd have relied on having the camera on a tripod, VR (or IS) off, and set an aperture that meant that focus wasn't too critical - f8 or tighter if I could get away with it - focus on the lights relying on the DOF from the aperture and then, unfortunately, do a bit of hoping for the best........

Edit - just thought - doing a series of pics and varying the focus distance would also have helped by increasing the chances of getting the stones in focus
 
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Tripod was a Vanguard Altro Pro.

Didn't think about zooming in. I thought it might change focus.

When I got closer I changed lenses to 70-200.

This was my best


_DSC3778 by pbfield, on Flickr
 
I swear I have seen a live view eye piece in one of the little ads in the back of the magazines can't remember where or how much. All I remember is thinking what would you use one of those for? I think I have just worked it out!!!!
 
Peter69 said:
Tripod was a Vanguard Altro Pro.

Didn't think about zooming in. I thought it might change focus.

When I got closer I changed lenses to 70-200.

This was my best

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10908445@N04/9923741224/
_DSC3778 by pbfield, on Flickr
Click to expand...

That's not too bad some careful processing and I'm sure that could work :thumbs: I know it's possible to get some epic night photos of the henge as I've seen them, fellow TPer AndWhyNot has some epic photos in his collection you should check out Andrews work it would give you some ideas on settings :thumbs:
 
some lenses have focus shift while zooming, otheres don't, and you can get eyepiece viewers for live view, often used for video
 
pingu666 said:
some lenses have focus shift while zooming, otheres don't, and you can get eyepiece viewers for live view, often used for video
Click to expand...
I think the eyepiece viewfinder is the answer on this occasion.
 
What about focus to infinity?
 
jimmy83 said:
Oh just an idea as it has worked for me in the past
Click to expand...

Depending on the scene it will work but and it's a big but I've seen too many photos ruined it an out of focus scene due to focussing to infinity :shrug:
 
Of course, the real answer is not to break in to places to take photos illegally. However, to add something possibly helpful (although if security are aware of your presence, it could give your position away...), how about a laser pointer to give the focusser (or AF sensor) something to see? I reckon a decent sharp stake with a tripod thread on top of it would possibly give more stable support than a poorly set up tripod (on long grass) - a full sized tripod with the legs splayed wide to get as low as possible will tend to "float" on the grass rather than sit down into it. Spiked feet would help if the leg angle ws steeper but that would raise the intruders' profile and make them easier to spot...
 
How about the simplest approach? Work out how far away you are and set the focus manually.

Anything over 60 feet might as well be set to infinity but less than that isn't difficult to judge by eye.


Steve.
 
A tip I picked up from the Urbex mob is to use a laser pointer.
Simply use Live View to zoom in on the dot and tweak manual focus until the dot is as small as possible.
This works even when it is too dark for Live View to produce an image and is very accurate.
Auto focus will work as it seems to be happy to pick up and use the dot; but you need a very steady hand to keep it underneath the focus point for long enough!

Using a 24mm lens this technique works for me at distances similar to the long side side of a football field.
For all practical purposes, this is far away enough to be treated as infinity.
Just for a laugh, I have even managed to focus on something half a mile away :)

Sometimes the only difficulty is finding the dot in Live View.
Green laser pointers have the advantage that you can see the beam, which makes things a lot easier at football field distances (and beyond).

Remember that if you zoom the lens then you MUST re-focus.
It's easy to forget and end up with soft images.
This is another advantage of prime lenses :D
 
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Thanks, lots to try.
Instead of a laser pointer what about using the sb900 flash? Obviously with flash set not to fire but will the red matrix help focus?

Nod, I wouldn't normally break into places to take photos but in Stonehenges case, I believe it is public property. English Heritidge didn't build it and it can't be sold. I tried to organise an entry but they said NO.

And as for digging up the anceistors to put on display in their new building.... but that rant is for another time and place
 
Mystery57 thats perfect except the price!

on ebay at £122 atm
 
Like it or not (and I like it no more than you do!), EH do have control of the site (and have had considerable problems in the past with people/mobs at significant celestial dates.) As you say, that's a completely different debate! ;)

Since you did have security on your tail(s), I would reckon that the pattern thrown by a Nikon speedlight's AF assist matrix would be even more spottable than a single red (or green) dot. Not sure how far the AF assist matrix is thrown either - possibly not far enough for your purposes. A laser pointer has a much longer throw! TBH, next time (I'm guessing you'll be having another try!), I would try AF and a fast lens - it's remarkably good these days, especially if the laser pointer's a viable option. It (AF) might even be able to get a fix on the edges of the stones.

Good luck! (3 months til Solstice - dare you try then?!)
 
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