Making walls as white as possible...

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Does this require a high ISO? And does the higher ISO mean a longer shutter speed required? I can never remember these kinds of things...
 
:thinking: not quite sure what you mean about 'white walls', but generally speaking a higher ISO is used to enable shorter shutter speeds [usually hand held speeds] in lower light scenarios, or to induce deliberate 'noise' [graininess] in the image for effect.
 
Maybe its something to do with white balance. In a lot of photos I seem to take (especially in artificial light), white walls come out a creamy yellow, and I was just wondering how to make them whiter..?

Sorry for sounding stupid.
 
Not stupid at all. Could indeed be a white balance issue, especially under artificial light. Check your cameras settings, make sure the white balance is set to the type of light you are shooting in [tungsten, flourescent, etc,] or perhaps try it on auto WB to see if that makes a difference. Also remember that white walls will reflect any ambient colours in the vicinity more easily, which your eye might correct for, the camera may not.

There are more technical aspects of the metering that may need looking at too, but I will have to leave a more technical brain than mine to explain. ;)
 
Thanks for the help... I guess its not just some blatant oversee from me which I thought it might be.
 
wgd, why don’t you just post one of those pix with the creamy walls here! So that we can SEE what the prob may be. And possibly do something about it.
 
Its not one particular, it just happens to be a problem I have in general. I will do it tomorrow when im not half dead.
 
If you want truly white walls, the best way is to take a custom white balance (your manual should explain how to do this) off of the walls themselves. This should then correct any colour cast you have.

The only downside to this is, if you have mixerd lighting e.g. daylight and tungsten, then it may create a different colour problem in another area of the image!
 
Gandhi has it right here I think - I would however use a grey card to set a custom white balance & alter the white point in post processing if you cannot perfect it in camera. This way, there are no colour inconsistencies as you are taking the cameras guess work out of the equation.
 
Gandhi has it right here I think - I would however use a grey card to set a custom white balance & alter the white point in post processing if you cannot perfect it in camera. This way, there are no colour inconsistencies as you are taking the cameras guess work out of the equation.

Why use a grey card and then have to edit rather than a white card? sorry i'm new to this.
 
Why use a grey card and then have to edit rather than a white card? sorry i'm new to this.

because, I think, metering for white will cause colour change in other colours and over exposure, whereas grey is the neutral colour that should get fairly consistent colour reproduction across the range in the prevailing light and the correct exposure. Or something like that. I said I couldnt explain it technically :lol:
 
No need to apologise at all Shane, we're all still learning new stuff all of the time :thumbs:

Your camera will try to see the tones in your image as an average reflectance (shades of 18% in all colours) A grey card is used to basically give the camera what it is trying (& often failing :p) to see.
The white side of the card will reflect 90% of the light hitting it - this is useful in low light situations where the camera meter may be more inaccurate - this does however give something close to 2 stops of over-exposure to the reading which would result in blown highlights if not compensated for.

I use my grey card all of the time, it's an extra step but the differences are very noticeable.
Any more questions, feel free to ask away :thumbs:

Edit: LL beat me to it with her fast typing :lol:
 
okay, that makes sense :D Thanks guys!

So i will need a middle grey. I'll give it a try n see the results :D

wgdbradley, you can have your thread back now :D
 
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