Tutorial Making a print fit into any frame: Mounting for beginners

Harlequin565

Harlequin565

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Making a print fit into any frame: Mounting for beginners - Making a print fit into any frame: Mounting for beginners

Hi there,

Welcome to this tutorial that will get you away from your camera/computer, and onto a table. With a knife. Yes. A Knife.

What I'm going to be demonstrating - Blue Peter style, here, is how to make a mount for your image. The great thing about making your own mount, is that you can fit any picture into any frame. Just alter the size of the mount. For a few pounds at a charity shop/boot sale, there are some great frame bargains to be had, and you can have a really professional...
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3. Cut the mount.

If you screw this up, your mountboard goes in the bin. Take care!
One problem I have with the mount cutter is that it slides like a greased monkey down a pole across the cutting mat. One hefty push and you've sliced your mount into bits. To combat this, I ALWAYS rest a bit of scrap mountboard under the cut I'm about to make. The mount cutter then "bites" into the scrap and is much more controllable.
If you're left handed, reverse these instructions!
- Hold the ruler in your right hand. Offer it up to one of your lines, JUST INSIDE the line.
3889591957_20b91a4b42_o.jpg


- "Roll" the ruler down so it's flat. Don't let it move. Swap hands so that your left hand is now holding the ruler down.
3889591803_9fe21474ac_o.jpg



- The mount cutter should have a white marker. Slide it up against the ruler so that the marker is level with your perpendicular line.
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- Push the thumb-slide down. This will make the first cut. Keeping the slide locked down, slide the mount cutter along your line, tight against the ruler, up to the other intersecting line.
- Release the thumb-slide
- Repeat for the other three lines.
- Lift your mountboard and marvel as a small square the size of your image is left on the cutting mat, or swear as you realise you didn't go far enough with one stroke, and the "insert" dangles in front of your eyes.
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Fixing the print to the mount.
- Lay a piece of (masking) tape, sticky side up, on your mat.
- Offer up your print and half-stick it onto the tape.
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- Offer up your mount and position it over the print.
- Lay the mount onto the print and tape, and press down firmly.
- Flip the mount over, and tape down the other three sides, starting with the side opposite to the one you just did.

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With this being a white print, a black mount works better, but doesn't show up the lines well for this demonstration. Hence the Blue Peter "here's one I did earlier" moment.
 
Refitting to the frame.

If you've got bendy bits, you're done. Put the glass back, the mounted print, then the backing board, then press the metal clips back into place.
If you need to re-pin the backing board...
- Lay the triangular clip on the backing board.

3889590551_a8fec58022_o.jpg

I didn't need to do this for this example, as the metal bendy clips were in place, but this illustrates the point

- Using a pair of pliers, grip the frame and the clip, and push the clip into the wood. I find that masking tape on one jaw of the pliers prevents the frame being damaged.
- Once you're done, tape it all up again to keep the pins secure.


Admire over a cuppa

3890380966_79903a2590_o.jpg

All finished and done. Bought this frame today from a charity shop for £3.99

This really is quite simple, and means that you don't need to crop your images to certain dimensions to fit into shop bought frames. It's also a great way to present your images relatively cheaply.
- Knife £5
- Mat £5
- Mountboard £1 for A3 size which can do a few frames if you salvage well
- Mount cutter £15
- Ruler £5
- Tape & mounting pins... peanuts
- Frames - from 50p
As you can see. Once you have your tools, the expense of mounting a print in any frame is minimal. This is just your outlay!

Once you're proficient, you can cut double mounts, or even cut titles into the space below your image. It's the same process repeated, just with different measurements for "x".
Another tip, is to cut a hole slightly smaller than the print. If you cut a precise 10x8 hole for a 10x8 print, there will be no overlap to stick to the mount.

Thanks for reading! It would be interesting to see peoples' framed prints as a result of this tutorial!

-H
 
Well wrote Harlequin very nice piece will bear this in mind as it makes it a lot easier for the tricky ones
 
I'd just like to point out that many frames on the market now are not wood, they are a plastic/rubber mix that then has a foil over the top of it.

It makes it incredibly hard to repair properly depending on the foil.

Also, when buying a frame that has cardboard sleeves over the corners, make sure you either take them off or at least check underneath. Because most frames are built using machines the corners do not always match up.

As for buying frames, if you can find a local manufacturer near you they may sell frames to you a trade prices. We used to sell quite a few directly to galleries and individuals as well as places like Wilkos.
 
This is a great tutorial and mounting is not difficult with the right kit (the Logan cutting tool).

If you can mount you can always buy frames off the shelf rather than paying ridiculous money to get the framer to 'custom' frame an image in one of their 'off the shelf' frames!
 
Wow. Thanks for all the positive feedback.

It did take quite a while to format, and put together (what with all the images).

However, it was taught to me at college in about 10 minutes, and I was very surprised at how easy it actually is. I also find it very therapeutic, and the finished effect is very rewarding.

Cheers!

-H
 
As I said before Ian, an excellent, well written and easy to follow tutorial.

Cheers

Andy
 
danielfellowes said:
Think I may well give this a go :)
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If you do, and it works, please let me know.

I was once told to write instructions for making a cup of tea as a writing exercise, and then was told I forgot to explain that the kettle needed filling up with water.

It's quite difficult to write tutorials and guides when you're doing it yourself. So easy to miss easy important steps that you think may be obvious, but aren't obvious to everyone.

-H
 
Thank you very much for writing this informative and well written tutorial :thumbs:.

I'd like to give this a go as well - I'll have to get all the equipment and try it out.

Alison :)
 
Nice one Harlequin. I too have a Logan mat cutter and wish to cut out multiple apertures on one mat, four that is, any tutorial on that coming?
 
I'm guessing you want to cut 4 holes in one piece of mountboard?

It's just a case of maths really. Only you know how you want them to appear in the mount. 2 up 2 down? 4 next to each other? Once you understand the basic principle (outlined above) then it's just a case of adapting it to your own preference.

Turn the mountboard over, measure its size. Work out where you want your images to go, then draw squares as guidelines for your mount cutter.

-H
 
Thank you so much for this tutorial,I've spent hours searching google for advice then go and find it on my doorstep:thumbs:.
 
Well i had a go of this today and i must say it's not so easy lol,Firstly it took me ages to centre my photo,then i cut the hole feeling pleased with myself i noticed the bevel was facing the wrong way lol,I'd put the blade in back to front (dont ask how).Good job i forseen problems and brought 2 big pieces of Mountboard im going to need them.
Still fitted to frame just to see how it looked,i surpose it was not too bad despite the bevel mistake,so as they say practice makes perfect.
Iain
 
Great Info. Many thanks
Dave
 
I bought a mount cutter and used it a few times. Great item but just found it easier to spend a few quid and buy my own. My Maped cutter's not been used in ages!
 
Thats excellent Ian. Great to see something like this. Thanks for taking the time out to show.
 
Fairly new here but once I get going with the D3000 this what I aim to do. Many thanks for taking the time & trouble Ian.
 
.
excellent - and timely as I just started to print some of my favorite shots
.
one small question...
"and tape down the other three sides, starting with the side opposite to the one you just did"
I was told to tape only the top edge, to allow the print to expand up or down with temperature changes and not buckle.......old wives tale..??
 
Yardbent said:
.
excellent - and timely as I just started to print some of my favorite shots
.
one small question...
"and tape down the other three sides, starting with the side opposite to the one you just did"
I was told to tape only the top edge, to allow the print to expand up or down with temperature changes and not buckle.......old wives tale..??
Click to expand...

No, more to do with humidity and fibre based photographic papers, resin coated ones and more modern inkjet and dye-sub photographic papers should not suffer to the same degree so less important now.

Still suspect it is good practise though!
 
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