Macro

boccers_2000

boccers_2000

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Andrew
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Hi Guys.

I usually take landscapes but i am toying with the idea of investing in a macro lens and trying some up close work (in part owing to the weather we have been having recently).

I just wanted to get your views on which lens I should be going for? I would spend upto £550-600 on the lens.

My original thought was the 100mm f2.8L but is this worth the extra over the non L version?

In addition, how important is it to get a flash set up for macro (such as a ring flash)? I only have a 430EXII flash unit (which only works on camera). My concern is of course buying the lens and then being unghappy with the results owing to the lack of a specific flash unit.

Can natural light work well in macro? Of course I guess that depends what you are shooting so for me, I think it would mainly be flowers, insects, inanimate objects around the house.

Any views from experienced macro photographers welcome!

Cheers
 
I've got the 100 f2.8 L macro and it's incredible. It's fast, quiet and accurate but, IIRC the optics are the same as the non IS version so I guess it's down to you to decide. Having used the IS version I wouldn't part with it to go for the non IS version for anything. My lens gets used as a portrait lens as well and for that the IS is brilliant, you can get some really creative long exposures handheld.

As for a flash I went for a standard ringflash to start with, but I've recently bought an Opteka RL-600 dual flash which gives more control over the lighting and is very good for the price.
 
Doing close up macro work will be difficult with natural light or on camera flash. Getting a usable depth of field will require small apertures (eg. f.10+) and being so close to the subject means you will block out most of the light and, if using flash, the lens will create a shadow over your subject. Thats not to say it can't be done, it's just much harder.
I've done pretty well using wireless triggers to fire my flash, also a 430EXII, or you could consider a flash bracket to hold the flash away from the camera. There are also many home made adaptors to redirect the light from a normal flash to in front of the lens. There's a thread on here somewhere, Pringles tubes and plastic milk cartons featured quite heavily.
If you've not tried macro work before have you considered extension tubes or lens reversing mounts? A much cheaper way to try (with good results) before you buy a dedicated lens.
 
The most cost effective way.........

A Raynox 150 or 250 or both, these two will set you back well under £100.

http://raynox.co.jp/english/digital/egdigital.html

Results are superb, from experience, and there is NO light loss because they are suplimentary lenses, no need for flash either.

Think of that money you could save ;)

A report I did....... http://www.mu-43.com/f38/pany-45-200-fitted-raynox-150-data-pictures-18693/

Should you decided to go down this route get yourself a step-down ring, your lens size down to 43mm, then you don't have to use the Raynox adaptor.

There are examples of shots taken with Ranox in the Macro section
 
Or, have a look at the Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX a splendid addition to any camera bag, tack sharp and not too pricey - Have one wouldnt sell it for the world

Les :thumbs:
 
I'd be another for the Raynox camp to start off with, you can get some really good results from it. All my bugs are done with it, I'm only just learning myself but I'm pretty pleased with the results.
 
You can pick up a used Canon 100mm macro for around the £300, lovely sharp lens with good contrast , it gives you internal focus (so the barrel doesn't extend as you focus) unlike the sigma 105 & Tamron 90mm, it also gives a good working distance (distance from the end of the lens to the subject) at 1:1

focusdistance.jpg


Shooting bugs in the UK your going to need a flash more often than not, if you go for the canon you can get away with a diffused hotshoe flash (have a look here for inspiration) . The sigma 150mm is also another good macro lens but its heavier and more difficult to hand hold, but gives a bigger working distance.
 
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