sk66
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When discussing FL's for certain applications it's always about EFL/FOV.Not sure exactly why you're bothering taking the crop factor into account if you only use Dx
When discussing FL's for certain applications it's always about EFL/FOV.Not sure exactly why you're bothering taking the crop factor into account if you only use Dx
On what body? On FF it will be 18-200mm, on crop it will be 27-300mm, not sure where you're getting 540mm from?The only Dx lens I have is the 18-200 which has only 18-200 marked on it - no mention of EFL anywhere. FWIW, that has an EFL of 540mm...
Ahh yes, I forgot about the 1-series1 series. That's why lenses are marked with the actual focal length rather than any equivalent.
ETA on FF the lens will either send the body into crop/Dx format or vignette.
Are you sure about that? My compact cameras have always stated the actual FL and not the 35mm equivalentActually, most fixed lens cameras have the FL marked as effective FL.
But FL and aperture are fixed characteristics of a lens independent of what it's put on, and that's why independent lenses are marked as such. A lens designer can't say what application may ultimately be used, the only thing they can do is design it for the intended application at the time. It wouldn't make much sense to label them all as 35mm equivalent... what about MF/LF lenses?
You're right, I should have said "marketed as."Are you sure about that?
"Not sure exactly why you're bothering taking the crop factor into account if you only use DX." "... The crop factor can be handy when chopping between FX and DX but if you only use one sensor size, it's pretty much irrelevant."
If IQ is your priority then the 70-200mm f2.8 will be better than the 70-300, 80-400, and 150-600mm. If you start adding TC's to the party then it gets more complicated. Whether the 70-200mm with 2xTC will be better optically than the 80-400 (both giving the sane reach at the long end) then I can't comment without trying them. My suspicion would be that the 80-400mm would be better. If you don't need a zoom then the 300mm f4 PF is a good option, and I dare say that the 300mm f4 with 1.4x TC could well be better than the 80-400mm.Im completely dazed and confused tbh....
I dont dislike my 70-300, but Ive had it a few years, and it has a bit of fungus on the glass. But it is a VR version and generally pretty good. Its only at the long end that its a bit soft that gets my GAS working....
Im sure the 70-200 2.8 will be better optically than the -300, and thats my primary desire.
To put it into car terminology, Ive bought a Porsche (D500) and have asked for Hankook tyres, when in reality, to get the best from it, it needs Michelin Pilot Cup Sports......
Someone put me out of my confusion and spend my money, please......
If IQ is your priority then the 70-200mm f2.8 will be better than the 70-300, 80-400, and 150-600mm. If you start adding TC's to the party then it gets more complicated. Whether the 70-200mm with 2xTC will be better optically than the 80-400 (both giving the sane reach at the long end) then I can't comment without trying them. My suspicion would be that the 80-400mm would be better. If you don't need a zoom then the 300mm f4 PF is a good option, and I dare say that the 300mm f4 with 1.4x TC could well be better than the 80-400mm.
What is it you're intending to shoot with this lens?
Are you needing a zoom? If not the 300mm would be my choice, would give 450mm equivalent focal length on crop body.IQ above all else for starters. I feel that about 420ish is about the max I need, until I make my annual trip to Silverstone for Motogp, and then 600 is needed - but happy to hire for that.
I suspect that I donly use the 1.4TC if required.

TBH I don't personally find these kinds of things that useful, just like the 'lab tests' I posted above. Sure it can give an idea of sharpness and fine detail, but how a lens renders images, bokeh etc etc is more important to me. There's no doubt that the 70-200mm f2.8 gives far nicer images than the 28-300mm imo. Then there's the light gathering and subject isolation to consider. Granted these things are somewhat negated when using the lenses for something like slow shutter panning. But then there's AF speed too, the 70-200 for example is very fast.Honestly, I would want versatility over anything else... and I think you're getting wrapped up with pixel peeping.
I did a test of my 28-300. I compared it at 300mm against the 70-200 in DX mode (300), and the 70-200 w/ 1.4x (280). Granted, it was a good light situation that allowed me to use the 28-300 optimally, but can you tell the difference?
Lens test w/ D800 by Steven Kersting, on Flickr
Full Size BTW, they are not listed in order...
Are you needing a zoom? If not the 300mm would be my choice, would give 450mm equivalent focal length on crop body.
Is 600mm the focal length of choice for silverstone then? I'm going for the F1 (and possibly moto gp) and was going to take the 70-200 and 150-600.
Talking of the Moto GP how come it's moved back to Silverstone, thought it was supposed to be at that new track in Wales?
There's no question that the 70-200 is the better lens, sometimes it matters and sometimes it doesn't.TBH I don't personally find these kinds of things that useful, just like the 'lab tests' I posted above.
One of Nikons weaknesses in relation to Canon is the lack of depth of variety of genuine glass IMHE......
The primary reason I mention the super zoom as opposed to a prime or even a short zoom is the variety of situations you listed... IMO, the zoo is more of a "general purpose" type scenario where there is the potential for a wide range of situations. For me, when I have options, the FL is one of the later decisions. First is perspective/composition, and then the FL is chosen to allow for it.@sk66 You are probably correct, but basic rules dictate that some glass is faster/sharper than others.
Plus, as Toby said, bokeh too.
One of Nikons weaknesses in relation to Canon is the lack of depth of variety of genuine glass IMHE......
I don't personally think Nikon have less variety per se, but they do lack a couple of options in telephoto such as 70-300mm options (Nikon only has one current FX option) and a 400mm f4.@sk66 You are probably correct, but basic rules dictate that some glass is faster/sharper than others.
Plus, as Toby said, bokeh too.
One of Nikons weaknesses in relation to Canon is the lack of depth of variety of genuine glass IMHE......
If budget and/or weight isn't a consideration then there's always the Sigma 120-300mm f2.8, lovely lens.
..- until I checked on LR the amount of shots I'd taken at 120....
If you are using this as a walkaround lens then the 70-200 is your Porsche.
If you want to save some money then the Sigma 70-200 OS is 'nearly' as good.. - & may mean you can get another lens...
https://www.lightroomdashboard.comTheres a way to let LR tell me how mnay shots were at different lengths ?
Being that the lens most used is the 70-300, and that a majority of them are at/near 300mm I suspect you are frequently just out of reach. If you frequently pass on taking shots due to lack of reach, or frequently find you have to crop too hard, then I would put even more emphasis on longer reach.
If budget and/or weight isn't a consideration then there's always the Sigma 120-300mm f2.8, lovely lens.

Im actually now seriously considering the Nikon 300mm f4 to go alongside a 70-200 2.8....
I can add a 1.4 to the prime for a bit of extra length if needed and still get to keep the native sharpness of the 70-200...
Good idea ?
Do all Focus points work with the 300mm f4 and 1.7TC? As you say it makes it f6.7 so I'd assume only the more central ones work.@Hertsman ,
After a lot of chopping and changing with lenses, I've settled on the 300mm PF with a 1.7tc for my D500.
I did use the Tamron 150-600mm and the older 300mm AF-S with a 1.4tc.
But the 300mm PF and 1.7tc gives fantastic quality for an effective focal length of 500mm and an F stop of 6.7.
What I have learned though is that it's best to take off the 1.7 tc and use the 300mm PF bare on the D500 and physically get closer to the subject.
For your needs I'd suggest this combo or a Sigma 150-600 C.
Hope that helps
Also, try some lenses out in shops. I can see you don't want to make the decision hastily as you started this thread over 6 weeks ago, so go out and spend a day trying the lenses that you've shortlisted. In truth, you'd probably be happy with all of them or none of them![]()
Do all Focus points work with the 300mm f4 and 1.7TC? As you say it makes it f6.7 so I'd assume only the more central ones work.
It's kind of in the manual but it's a bit of a grey area where the exact cut off is with the 1/3 stops.I'm not sure as I only tend to use the middle few focus points but I'm sure I've seen a link to an information sheet that shows which focus points work with the 1.7 tc.
The manual is quite misleading in a way... Nikons do not "disable" AF points, they just don't work well, or at all. If I put a 2x on my 80-400 and extend it to 400mm (f/12.6 effective) I can still select all of the AF points and the camera will try to use them.It's kind of in the manual but it's a bit of a grey area where the exact cut off is with the 1/3 stops.
Sorry, poor choice of wordsThe manual is quite misleading in a way... Nikons do not "disable" AF points, they just don't work well, or at all. If I put a 2x on my 80-400 and extend it to 400mm (f/12.6 effective) I can still select all of the AF points and the camera will try to use them.