Lighting and bags under eyes

ams99

ams99

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Alan
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Hi All,

I'm currently still only making use of one flash gun - until Christmas that is and i am trying to understand the basics of lighting.
I have read with interest the Strobist blogs as well as various threads on TP.

My question is this:

When i light from say top right (8 o clock from subject - shoot through umbrella) i have these huge Tesco bags underneath my eyes. These are more pronounced the wider i take the light. However, if i light from underneath they aren't so obvious. Therefore, would the answer be to light from high at 8 o clock and then use a little fill from below?

Obviously can't test this scenario until Christmas day!!

Thanks in advance.
Alan
 
A white or silver reflector should do

H
 
You could easily introduce a reflector under your subjects chin / chest area at various angles to bounce light back into the face.

. edit .
Helen has quicker fingers than me and posted while i was composing my reply ;)
 
Sharky said:
You could easily introduce a reflector under your subjects chin / chest area at various angles to bounce light back into the face.

. edit .
Helen has quicker fingers than me and posted while i was composing my reply ;)
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Sorrrrrie :D
 
As above, reflector or fill flash. I took an awesome picture (not photo) of a girl in a garden but in direct overhead sunlight. It was ruined because of shadows under the eyes. I was on holiday at the time so couldn't do much about it.

What would you guys have done?
 
omens said:
As above, reflector or fill flash. I took an awesome picture (not photo) of a girl in a garden but in direct overhead sunlight. It was ruined because of shadows under the eyes. I was on holiday at the time so couldn't do much about it.

What would you guys have done?
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moved her into the shade hth mike
 
omens said:
As above, reflector or fill flash. I took an awesome picture (not photo) of a girl in a garden but in direct overhead sunlight. It was ruined because of shadows under the eyes. I was on holiday at the time so couldn't do much about it.

What would you guys have done?
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dinorock said:
moved her into the shade hth mike
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^^ This or fixed it in post with a little bit of low opacity clone stamp taking a sample from the cheek bone area.
 
meonshore said:
^^ This or fixed it in post with a little bit of low opacity clone stamp taking a sample from the cheek bone area.
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i sort of agree mike but, we all assume everyone has excellent editing skills.i for one have nightmares sorting out direct sunlight shots so just avoid it where possible.get it right first to allow the minimal post processing. i hate messing around with pics after i've taken them when it could have been avoided in the first place.hth mike
 
dinorock said:
i sort of agree mike but, we all assume everyone has excellent editing skills.i for one have nightmares sorting out direct sunlight shots so just avoid it where possible.get it right first to allow the minimal post processing. i hate messing around with pics after i've taken them when it could have been avoided in the first place.hth mike
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No I'm in full agreement with you - open shade if you are outdoors is always the best light for portraits, and the most flattering on skin. Then frontal lighting with some light coming up from below bouncing off concrete or from a reflector, clam-shell type lighting arrangement, or a light and a reflector (even a white shirt or dress). You do want to avoid side lighting, particularly with women unless they have flawless skin or you are expecting a pro-retouch as part of the workflow.

But if you can't do that, and even in good soft frontal light you'll find some people have dark areas under their eyes or bags (mother of the brides mainly :exit:) and want to look their best - and you can't minimise it with good lighting at the time and get it right in-camera then post is a viable alternative, and a skill that doesn't take long to master and can make you a lot of money in sales ;-)
 
At the time, I didn't appreciate such factors as I do now. IIRC there weren't any trees or indoor buildings. The tallest thing was a hedge around waist high. The rest of the plants were rose bushes and the like. And I had only my little G12 with me so couldn't overpower the sun.
 
omens said:
At the time, I didn't appreciate such factors as I do now. IIRC there weren't any trees or indoor buildings. The tallest thing was a hedge around waist high. The rest of the plants were rose bushes and the like. And I had only my little G12 with me so couldn't overpower the sun.
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Under those circumstances, the best you can do is a little fill from the built in flash. Although as a general rule it's a useless object, this is the one situation you'll find it useful.
 
ams99 said:
When i light from say top right (8 o clock from subject - shoot through umbrella) i have these huge Tesco bags underneath my eyes. These are more pronounced the wider i take the light. However, if i light from underneath they aren't so obvious. Therefore, would the answer be to light from high at 8 o clock and then use a little fill from below?
Click to expand...

Google tri-flector to see how some professionals do it, a professional friend of mine just uses a strip of bacofoil

Mike
 
Or a fill kicker light pointing from maybe waist height to underneath the eyes, I always find it a pain getting dark shadows from under the eyes in PS, it can take ages to match the skin tones correctly, it's best done in camera if at all possible.
 
Change in head position, reflector, fill light.
 
Seriously, if you practice in front of a mirror, you'll be gobsmacked how different the lighting looks with very subtle changes in head position.
 
Phil V said:
Seriously, if you practice in front of a mirror, you'll be gobsmacked how different the lighting looks with very subtle changes in head position.
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Bang on.

Also consider the softness of the light. Larger and closer to subject. This will help.
 
ams99 said:
If I turn my head backwards it will obviously help:D

Looking forward to making a silver foil reflector and trying fill flash
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White reflectors are less harsh, and a cheap 5 in 1 is about the best VFM photography equipment you will ever buy. It's not worth the time to even plan making one yourself.
 
You brain sees differently to a camera, it corrects and dismisses stuff, plus is 3d, but when we see a picture its different..
 
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