Light Painting with a Compact Camera - Tutorial

[Loopy]

I thought I'd post this as it seems daft to do it for a few people and not share.
I run a beginners camera night class, aimed at those who've just got their first camera and want to move on from the auto button. There's quite a mix of cameras from very basic compact to SLR but the class is mainly aimed at compact users.

We did a still life workshop which dabbled with light painting towards the end. While it was quite easy to get a suitable setting using the manual mode on the SLR, the compact was more challenging to get a longer exposure.

The following is the technique that I found worked, although I'm going to try a few of the other 'scene modes'.

I would appreciate some feedback please. Not necessarily on the final images, but more on the tutorial as I need it to be easy to understand. This would be a 3rd or 4th week exercise so the group should have a little bit of basic camera knowledge by then.

Painting with light with a compact camera

Camera Used: Canon Ixus 220 HS

Hopefully this will work with other Ixus cameras.

Put the camera on a tripod if you have one or on a raised stable surface such as a pile of books. Use bluetac to add a bit of extra stability.

This is where you need to either play with the camera to figure out how to change setting or refer to the manual on the CD (or on-line). The quick 'getting started' guide will most likely not have the follow details.

Take camera off Auto setting and put into program (P) mode using the 'Function Set' button.
Set ISO to 100
Set the self-timer to 2 seconds (or 10 seconds if this is the only option)

Switch the flash off (using the button to the right of the 'Function Set' button)
Set the exposure compensation to -1 (using the button above the 'Function Set' button) This will under expose the image to get the low key lighting effect.
Use the Macro button (to the left of the 'Function Set' button) and make sure that the camera is on a normal setting.

This was the set up I used.

· Dark coloured scarf draped from a picture over a filing box.
· Models stood about 10 inches away from background
· Camera on tripod at same height as models and about 10" away
· Light source in final image was a single bulb LED torch


Turn the lights out in the room and shine the torch onto your subject.

Press the shutter button half way (the orange light should come on and illuminate your subject while the camera focuses). When you're happy that your subject is in focus, (it may take a few goes) press the shutter button fully.

Shine the torch on the subject while the self-timer is counting down so you know where you want the light to be (make sure not to bump the table or camera).

When I tried this, the camera set the shutter speed to .8 or 1 sec and f5.

It might take a few attempts and you don't have as much control as using an SLR, but it is possible to get some good results with a bit of imagination and patience.

These are a couple of my images done as a test to see if this technique would work. All I have done is crop the images so the subject is more central. No other PP.

I'm going to try getting similar results with an old Kodak Easyshare later this evening so I'll post any results from that, as well as the settings used.

Thanks for looking.

 

[Garry Edwards]

Turn the lights out in the room and shine the torch onto your subject.

I think I would say "Make sure the room is in total darkness"

Logic tells me that the longer the exposure the better, admittedly I've never light painted anything quite this small, but when doing it with most subjects I use a 30 second exposure. Obviously this isn't available with all cameras, but people should be encouraged to use the longest exposure available, this will allow them to take their time.

I'm not sure that an LED torch is ideal, the light is harsh and the colour is often very blue. And 'old technology' torch is usually better, or we could follow the master, Emil Shildt, and use a pygmy lamp in a (preferably empty) polystyrene coffee cup.

And I think you need to advise people to keep the light moving at all times, and also to make sure that it doesn't point towards the camera - mind you, if they do point it to the camera they'll soon learn not to...

Other than those small points, which are my opinion only anyway, I think you've done a good job.

 

[Loopy]

Thanks. Point taken about room in darkness and I agree about the old style torch. It's quite hard to find one these days though.

I'm still working on how to get the camera to a longer exposure when it doesn't have a manual shutter speed setting or manual focus. I have to have some light source for the auto focus to work and the camera sets the shutter speed, hence (on my attempt) the 1 second exposure. I'm going to have another try tonight.

I've also used larger subjects previously and had a longer shutter speed, but I think I'm going to be restricted here which is also what I have to get across - about having to accept compromise depending on what camera, lens, available light there is etc.

Thanks for the input

 

[Micehorns]

I have a few ideas ; Download GIMP for free and create 2 layers, one with the torch shining from the left and another shining from the right, then set the layer type to "Lighten only", that way you can merge the two angles into one balanced image. GIMP is free and very easy to use.

Try and spread the light from the torch, I do this by placing a piece of white paper infront of the torch. Sometimes the generic 'Sunny/Sunset' white balance option can overcome the blue tint from a torch, if a camera doesn't have this option you can adjust the colour coming from the torch itself, maybe try and place some coloured paper infront of torch?

Keep up the good work!

 

[Loopy]

Thanks. We're looking at image manipulation in a couple of weeks and GIMP is one of the programs I use. At the moment we're trying to concentrate on just getting the image in the camera. We've looked at white balance so that was covered in another tutorial, but I'll include it in this one too as a reminder.

I've just bought some ciggie papers to use as makeshift flash diffusers so I'll give them a go over the torch too.

 

[Leslie]

If your camera has a 'fireworks mode' as one of the scene selections that might allow you to have a longer shutter speed. I'm sure I used that on a compact when taking some light spirals of a torch hanging from the ceiling.

 

[specialman]

Good idea for getting round a problem when you don't have a DSLR.

As for the light, a white screen on something like an iPhone is great - I use my HTC for lighting a lot of stuff Works like a massive soft box on really small objects

 

[Loopy]

Just tried again with an old, cheapie Kodak Easyshare.

Fireworks mode didn't work as too close so wouldn't focus :shrug:
Possibly the pants camera.

Found a close up self portrait mode which seemed to do the trick. I've posted the image below. Absolutely straight out of the camera bar resizing.

I'm emphasising the 'straight out of' bit because PP isn't really a main feature of the course. It's about what you can do with the camera and makeshift tools available. Don't get me wrong, I lerve photoshop but I'm really enjoying the challenge of working round things.

I'll mention about using the phone too. I've got 'tiny flashlight' as an app and the different lights could be interesting.

This is my test shot. I have to say, I'm really finding out what all these scene modes do. Personally, I don't think it's too bad for about £20 worth of kit