Light Meters, Why and When?

EdinburghGary

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Gary
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Hello,

Can someone explain why a Light Meter will enhance your photos and when to use one?

Also are they childs play to read and use or do they take a lot of skill and knowledge to get the best out of them?

Lastly, can someone recommend one for a D200?

Thanks,

Gary.
 
I don't know if enhance is the right word so much as correctly expose.

The main reason for using one is more consistent results for your exposure. The meter in the camera can easily be fooled by light or dark backgrounds. Light meters usually take an incident reading, meaning how much light is arriving at a spot rather than how much is being returned so the results are usually more accurate but you still need to compensate on occasion to deal with scenes that have extreme variations in lighting.

They're easy to use, some are digital, other are analogue but basically you set two values and read the third off the meter, the 3 values being ISO, shutter speed and aperture.

Getting the best out of one is really about learning when it adjust the results to suit the scene but that could equally be applied to the camera's meter as well.
 
Pxl8, thanks for your reply.

So, you choose two values (does it matter whuch two?) and the light meter specifies the third...

So:


I CHOOSE:
ISO 100
Aperture 1.4

Light meter will therefore choose Shutter Speed?

Gary.
 
Yup..
 
Search for Sekonic, Gary... you should find something to your liking. :thumbs:
 
I use a light/flash meter Gary, Sekonic L-358, good all round digital meter.

Mainly for studio flash work, but do use it for incident light reading outside (it does both), generally use it for long exposures.

I find my camera is pretty good most of the time for getting the right exposure, but a lot of that comes from knowing my camera, and of course bracketing like mad on some occasions :)
 
Any camera meter takes a reading the scene and assumes on average that 18% of the light is reflected so the meter is only accurate if the scene is average. If you have a scene with lots of dark areas the meter will over expose because it's trying to make the dark areas 18% and vice versa.

For typical situations it works well and the camera also evaluative metering that looks are sections of the scene and compares the results with presets in its memory so it can spot situations such as backlighting, etc.

An incident meter just measures how much light falls on the scene so if you take a reading in the same light as the subject the exposure will be bang on for that 18% (which might not be right for the subject but is a good starting point).

They are two completely different ways of metering a shot so it's a little difficult to compare but a light meter will be more consistent than the camera's meter.

Some light meters also offer reflected or spot metering which is much closer to the camera's method but without any evaluation and checking against the examples in memory. Likewise most cameras offer some kind of partial metering which works a bit more like a light meter.

I've not used a light meter for 15 years or so now, I generally shoot in manual mode and take a reading from the scene get that exposed correctly and then adjust as the light/subject requires it.

An old technique is to take a reading off the palm of your hand and work out how much you need to under or over expose it. Then no matter where you are you can take a reading off your hand and get consistent results so long as the reading is taken in the same light as the subject. No need for expensive meters or to trust the camera's evaluative skills :thumbs:
 
All top info in this thread but the fact remains that a using light meter with a digital camera is a little like pushing your car to start it when there's nothing wrong with the battery.

It wont do any harm at all but it's not the quickest way to get a good exposure. It's far quicker to guess the exposure, take a peek at the histogram and adjust if needed. If you want to go belt and braces, bracket your shots too.
 
I've used my D70 to meter transparency film for my manual film camera, and its pretty damn accurate.
 
One thing I dont understand. I have a flashing exposure icon on my D200 which is sitting to the far left of a long graph / line. Sure when I bought the camera that icon didnt flash and sat centred??

Current settings:
Aperture Priority
F1.4 50mm
Exposure Compensation 0.0
 
The other obvious benefit of using the camera metering system is that it's through the lens (TTL) so automatically adjusts for lens or filter losses.

Personally I see not real need to use an external meter on a DSLR and would only use one for unmetered film bodies.
 
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