Light meter

RaglanSurf

RaglanSurf

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Morning folks,

Can anyone recommend a budget light meter? I have a very aging Leningrad 8 which is a bit past its best. I'm not after any anything too complicated as long as it can do reflected and incident readings preferably one that will hold the reading. New or second hand and as cheap as possible. Thanks
 
I have a Sekonic L-308S which does everything I want, and everything you want too by the sounds :) I know a lot of other peeps use the same one, good value.

I only ever use it for studio flash metering though. Camera handles everything else, including incident readings if that's what you fancy.
 
I've one for sale over on the for sale thread ;)
 
When I asked about a light meter at the TP convention the Sekonic L-308S was the one they mentioned as doing everything actually needed. I will be getting one after Christmas.
 
The 308-s is the one my college uses, easy to understand and survives being dropped on a hard floor.... repeatedly!
 
I used a 308s on my photographic course for studio work. Really easy to use and read.
 
Trusty old Weston Master V for me... :thumbs: ...bought it second hand for not a lot and it works perfectly giving all of your requirements RS and in a package to match your period equipment... :D





:p
 
Venomator said:
Trusty old Weston Master V for me... :thumbs: ...bought it second hand for not a lot and it works perfectly giving all of your requirements RS and in a package to match your period equipment... :D:p
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That seems to be more like it, I can't really justify spending more on the light meter than I have on the camera, lens, camera bag and flash etc :lol:

Much as I'd like a digital meter, £100 is not exactly what I call budget.
 
RaglanSurf said:
That seems to be more like it, I can't really justify spending more on the light meter than I have on the camera, lens, camera bag and flash etc :lol:
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Just do a search on the Fleabay and loads will pop up... :D


If you do get one I can point you to a manual... :shrug: ...unless you are lucky enough to find one complete with... :suspect:




:p
 
Yep = go for the L308-s. I use it for studio only and it is great:thumbs:
 
Venomator said:
Trusty old Weston Master V for me... :thumbs: ...bought it second hand for not a lot and it works perfectly giving all of your requirements RS and in a package to match your period equipment... :D

:p
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Most overrated light meter in history IMHO. Selenium cell - hopeless in low light.
 
compared to what...a Leningrad 8 or a sekonic 308 ?

make a suggestion..
 
Thanks Folks,
The Lunasix seems like it might fit the bill. Not too expensive and about as complicated as I need.
 
HoppyUK said:
I have a Sekonic L-308S which does everything I want, and everything you want too by the sounds :) I know a lot of other peeps use the same one, good value.

I only ever use it for studio flash metering though. Camera handles everything else, including incident readings if that's what you fancy.
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i have one of these and a 758 which i hardly use.

the 308s is always in the bag
 
RaglanSurf said:
Thanks, have decided that the Lunasix will fit the bill perfectly. Now I just need to find a cheap one, kicking myself that I missed one on the 'bay last night :bang:
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Please be aware that the original Lunasix III took two PX625 mercury cells which are no longer available. There are, I believe, suitable replacements which may require an adaptor. Recalibration will probably be needed if modern battery replacements are fitted, but that's easily done by the user.
 
The thing I don’t like about the 308s is you cannot get alternative shutter speed and aperture readings of the same flash. You have to keep picking an aperture or shutter speed and then firing the flash again. It will give you all the alternative settings in daylight at the press of a button but not in flash.
I have a Minolta IV of ebay for £70 which has much greater functionality and feels more robust.
 
why not buy an old film body with a beat-up lens from Ebay, and use the light meter in that? should cost peanuts.
 
Am I right in saying that the Sekonic L-308S works by you triggering the flash and then giving you shutter or aperture values to put into the camera to get a good exposure? I haven't got a clue about light meters.

For example, if I want to take a shot at f2.2 and trigger my flash, the light meter will recommend a shutter speed to get the correct exposure?
 
KayJay said:
Am I right in saying that the Sekonic L-308S works by you triggering the flash and then giving you shutter or aperture values to put into the camera to get a good exposure? I haven't got a clue about light meters.

For example, if I want to take a shot at f2.2 and trigger my flash, the light meter will recommend a shutter speed to get the correct exposure?
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No, the shutter speed makes no difference to the flash exposure (only the ambient exposure). To explain, the flash duration is very fast - rarely longer than 1/1000sec and often a lot shorter. All the shutter needs to do is stay open long enough for the whole frame to be exposed for that time, which in reality usually means a shutter speed of 1/250sec or 1/200sec (depending on the camera) or any longer speed will also be fine if you want some ambient light to also record in the picture. If you use a faster shutter speed, you will only get half a picture, or a quarter, or less - the rest of the frame will be black. (To get a better handle on why this is, google focal plane shutter.)

So with the Sekonic, you set the x-sync shutter speed for your camera, activate the meter and fire the flash. It will give you the f/number.

The meter does all sorts of other things, that you may or not want to do, but that's the basics of flash metering.
 
Thanks for that.
Interesting. Seems I have a lot still to learn when it comes to flash lighting.
 
KayJay said:
Thanks for that.
Interesting. Seems I have a lot still to learn when it comes to flash lighting.
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LOL You're welcome.

Some of this stuff sounds confusing but none of it is difficult. When you understand how a focal plane shutter works and all DSLRs use them (there are some good graphics on't web) you will get the concept of x-sync. You will then immediately see why shutter speed has no effect on normal flash exposures.

And taking that a step further, you'll get a handle on how high speed sync can overcome this, should you need it. And stuff like second curtain sync, which opens up new creative opportunities.

Edit: try this link which explains x-sync with a focal plane shutter.
http://www.photocourse.com/itext/sync/
There's also another one on there which shows how it creates faster shutter speeds by varying the gap between the first and second shutter curtains, while all the time it only runs at one mechanical speed.
 
I have just brought a Gossen Digipro F Digital - It seems to be much better built than the seconics I was looking at
 
Basically I'm going to be doing some strobist type photoshoots to help me learn, so looking for a lightmeter that is straight forward and relatively inexpensive, like the OP of this thread. I'll check them both out.

Cheers Richard. Are you happy with your Digipro?
 
KayJay said:
Basically I'm going to be doing some strobist type photoshoots to help me learn, so looking for a lightmeter that is straight forward and relatively inexpensive, like the OP of this thread. I'll check them both out.

Cheers Richard. Are you happy with your Digipro?
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I'm sure the Digipro is fine. A light meter is a pretty basic tool, but I have a Sekonic 308.

To be honest, I don't really use a flash meter for setting the final exposure, I use the LCD and histogram which is actually more accurate. I use the meter to set the basic lighting ratios when using two or more flash heads and when I'm happy with that, tweak it to optimum by adjusting the f/number fractionally to shift the histogram right or left.
 
KayJay said:
Basically I'm going to be doing some strobist type photoshoots to help me learn, so looking for a lightmeter that is straight forward and relatively inexpensive, like the OP of this thread. I'll check them both out.

Cheers Richard. Are you happy with your Digipro?
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so far, so good. I have had a hour or so to give it a work out, in a crap environment for testing. However, forgetting that - for flash / ambient and relected measurements it seems pretty spot on

Only issue so far - the way it displays shutter speed isnt immediatally 100% user friendly, however a quick read of the destruction manual soon sorted that. A backlight would be nice

Whats good: seems very well built, auto power off, std battery, nice and compact (would fit in any pocket in my suit/trousers)

example:
'10 = 1/10th second
10 = 10 seconds

I twice missed the ' and dialed in 2 seconds instead of 1/2 sec

I will give everyone a full apraisal when I have the time to use it in anger
 
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