Lens Repair Service

just a small point - and not very important
but if it's controlled by electronics - isn't it the focus rather than the zoom?

oh and judicious use of a hair dryer may encourage the condensation to be elsewhere
 
mmcp42 said:
just a small point - and not very important
but if it's controlled by electronics - isn't it the focus rather than the zoom?

oh and judicious use of a hair dryer may encourage the condensation to be elsewhere
Click to expand...

to be honest, I haven't a clue other than it's referred to as the zoom mechanism in a write up I found of an EF lens being dismntled part way... the good news is that I relented to myself and had a tinker;) I've found three barrel screws that hold the top element in place, removing these enables you to remove the whole top element assembly including the cct board.. the better news is that this then gives access to the 2 elements deeper within the barrel too.. effectively, I can now clean all three components without further dismantling the focus/zoom barrel..

doing that now and then there's the last 2 elements to get at and I'll be ready to assemble all the bits

p.s. the element within the barrel are fully enclosed so an air dryer wouldn't be any good.. they're very wet too so it needs dismantling.. more than condensation, more like beads of water in there.. thanks for the suggestion btw:thumbs:
 
ah... another hurdle:'( there's actually 3 elements in there and the condensation is also between the two that remain in the barell.. more screws to undue:'(
 
sounds like far too much screwing going on here - and no pictures!!!!!
 
mmcp42 said:
sounds like far too much screwing going on here - and no pictures!!!!!
Click to expand...


ooer:) I'm taking picture each time something's removed and a good job too as there's been a couple of times where something's fallen out and I've been able to relocate it in the correct place by looking at the photo's... I've got all the elements out now and the one that's fogged up is what looks to be the aperture module... I'm using the air dryer against that one now and it seems to be clearing.. if I can get these last two clear, I'm ready to put everything back together again..

good news is that the 2nd PCB is completely clear of salt water damage so it should be working fine.
 
fingers crossed - sounds like a serious project!
 
I must admit that it is starting to get a little hairy.. I know there's two slivers of metal from the AF shroud that I'm going to have to think hard as to where they go (they both fell out as I lifted it off so no chance of taking a shot first)...

here's a breakdown of the zoom/focus barrel.. you'll see that it's still quite modular so, as you say, "fingers crossed" it shouldn't be too much hassle reconstructing the thing.

notice the water ingress in the bottom left hand unit.. I'm drying it out still (this is the aperture module I think)

zoom barrel components.JPG
 
wow!
 
sportysnaps said:
great thread
just a thought - is there anyway you can video yourself taking the bits apart - even if its with a phone - that way if you make a mistake you can play the video and see why.
Click to expand...

I would but unfortuntely I have a Nokia E61 without camera and the video's an old HI-8 thing that would be far too much hassle... there'll e a bit of trial and error putting it back together but now I know how everything comes apart, it should take me long to strip down again to where I've made the mistake, if I do.

going to have to leave this until tomorrow now.. Canon have secured the aperture module with 3 long and 3 short screws and three of the tiniest allen bolts I've ever seen.. I'll need to go out and buy an allen key especially for it so have resorted to leaving it in the airing cupboard again in the hope it dries out ok.

cant wait to get it all back together to see if the electrics are any better
 
put it all back together even though one of the elements are still foggy.. I'm assuming it'll clear eventually on the basis that if water can get in then so can air and evaporated water should be able to escape.

Biggest problem I have is I still cant find a home for the 2 slivers of metal, they look like contacts.. one thing for sure is that they have come of the zoom shroud.

Anyways, it's semi good news so far... putting the lens back on the camera gives me all the manual functions I had before the dimantle so mechanically, I've put it back together correctly:thumbs:. manual zoom and focus work fine. Even more promising is when switching to AF mode, I no longer get a power surge in the lens (the USM buzzed before each time the switch was flicked on - it shouldn't) and when I press the shutter release half way, the flash pops up (it did nothing before)... it also has a go at focusing momentarily. However, it refuses to take a shot when I press the shutter release fully down. Switching to MF mode results in an err-code 099 (was 001 before) when taking a shot, no image is produced.

Taping over the large contact again allows me to take a shot but the image is very foggy, I'm putting that down to the lens element that's still misted up.

so, as above, semi good news, I've confirmed I can take apart and build a lens successfully so I can now easily take the lens apart again to find a home for the slivers of metal and recheck the state of the circuit board.. assuming the foggy lens element clears, I'll not need to go any further than taking off the zoom shroud which is early on in the dismantle process (10 mins max).. if the lens doesn't clear, it'll be a full dismantle job as it's the last element in the zoom/focus barrel.

I think the outcome will either be the main cct board is knackered and/or these slivers of metal are critical to the electrical operation of the lens and/or I haven't refitted the electrical strips connecting the main board to the camera correctly.

Whatever happens, I've amassed enough info to pull together a document that give's instructions for dismantling and rebuilding this lens.. would be of use to someone who has a mechanical or dirty lens problem I guess.

next steps is to chill, have a brew and then have a go at refitting the slivers of metal, reseating the contact strips and giving the board a clean again.

here's a picture of these metal strips/contacts that have fallen out of the zoom shroud.

metal contact.JPG



the saga continues:nuts:
 
rather than contacts they might just add a bit of tension/friction to the zoom/focus mechanism
imho

oh and congrats on the re-assembly! :thumbs:
 
What a great thread. Can't wait for the next episode. Keep at it Gary I really think you are doing well.
 
for future reference, dont use your filtered tap water for lens cleaning. it will probably contain more dissolved solids than your regular tap water (assuming its an ion exchange water softener, which most of them are). this will produce more residue.

Distilled, de-ionised or reverse osmosis water are your best bets.
 
What a fantastic thread!

The not taking a picture thing when in AF is expected if the camera can't focus for whatever reason. In your case, solve the fogging and I reckon you will have an AF lens there.

Regarding the shims, is there not a schematic diagram+Parts List somewhere on the internet? there is one around for a nifty fifty so I imagine there would be one for the other lenses - the nifty one is a Canon document; oddly enough linked from a chap who had to dismantle his plastic wonder.

B.
 
I know it's a pain, but I'd be inclide to dis-assemble it and dry out the last bit
that water's got to go somewhere
be a shame if it landed on your new shiny electrics!
 
BenMottram said:
What a fantastic thread!

The not taking a picture thing when in AF is expected if the camera can't focus for whatever reason. In your case, solve the fogging and I reckon you will have an AF lens there.
Click to expand...

Even with a fogged lens, the focus motor should wind the focus from one end to the other and back again, although if it can't actually get a focus, it won't take a picture.

Maybe the actual USM motor is seized up?

Jeff
 
BenMottram said:
What a fantastic thread!

The not taking a picture thing when in AF is expected if the camera can't focus for whatever reason. In your case, solve the fogging and I reckon you will have an AF lens there.

Regarding the shims, is there not a schematic diagram+Parts List somewhere on the internet? there is one around for a nifty fifty so I imagine there would be one for the other lenses - the nifty one is a Canon document; oddly enough linked from a chap who had to dismantle his plastic wonder.

B.
Click to expand...

Ben, the best I've seen is for the 28-135L IS USM which is pretty much exactly the same but unfortunately the shims aren't shown... here's a link to a base directory containing part diagrams for a number of Canon lenses.. the 28-135's in there under ef 28-135.pdf

http://f20c.com/stuff/canon/partslist/

on the AF thing, my usual lens still tries to fcous with the lens cap on and doean't come back with an error code so unfortunately, I don't think it's the misted element causing the problem... I've found a definite problem that going to take some fixing.. I'll post it up in a mo
 
mmcp42 said:
I know it's a pain, but I'd be inclide to dis-assemble it and dry out the last bit
that water's got to go somewhere
be a shame if it landed on your new shiny electrics!
Click to expand...

I'm going to leave it for now to be honest as I've got a bigger problem that I think is going to take some thinnking time to get around, if I can.. again, I'll post something to show the problem
 
kingborris said:
for future reference, dont use your filtered tap water for lens cleaning. it will probably contain more dissolved solids than your regular tap water (assuming its an ion exchange water softener, which most of them are). this will produce more residue.

Distilled, de-ionised or reverse osmosis water are your best bets.
Click to expand...

I've read in another advice column that if distilled water isn;t available it's better to get tap water in there as quickly as possible to halt the salt water doing its thing, the filter I used was a basic jug filter ith charcoal insert.. however, it has to be said the lens that dried by itself in the airing cupboard last night after being swilled with the de-ionised water has dried crystal clear so definitely good advice to use the stuff in preference to tap water, filtered or not.
 
This is a great thread.

And weather or not you succeed in getting the lens fully functional you must post up a detailed write up and pics for those of us who cant do things without an idiot sheet:thinking: (I know by experience after naffin my kit lens trying the same thing).

So what are you dismanteling next?
 
this one could be a show stopper wrt fixing the electrics.. it will definitely affect the opertion of the camera and is probably the root cause of the errors I'm seeing!

I've found that a couple of the electric strips connecting the major components such as the USM to the main board are corroded... this means soldering on a hair thin piece of wire to bridge the gap, go to Maplins and get a repair kit or do as mentioned previously, wait for a lens to come on to ebay that's broken for reasons other than electrical parts and use it for spares... I'll probably do the Maplins trip as I have most of the gear needed (a fine tip heat adjustable soldering iron is the most crucial) and also wait in hope for a spare lens to come up for sale using the on I have in Manual focus mode for now.

Anyways, here's an example of the damage.. bear in mind, you have to use a watch makers eyeglass to see it, it's that small... the finger is that of my 7 YO son to give you perspective too.... he's in the bathroom at the moment cleanind his nails:lol:

Broken Strip Connector.JPG


I'll have a go a writing somthing up tomorrow on the dismantle and re-build aspects... I can put a Word Doc on my wespace and link to it.... or is there a better way? article for the forum maybe?



.
 
Tooler said:
This is a great thread.

And weather or not you succeed in getting the lens fully functional you must post up a detailed write up and pics for those of us who cant do things without an idiot sheet:thinking: (I know by experience after naffin my kit lens trying the same thing).

So what are you dismanteling next?
Click to expand...

think my good lady's ready to dismantle my head from my shoulder's at the moment so probably nothing for the foreseeable;)
 
crikey that's tiny
possibilities:
a) repair by soldering v v carefully - you might be able to strip back the plastic so you have something to work with
probably need a single starnd out of some multicore cable to bridge the gap
b) the other end is probably the same, so (e.g.) Maplins might have a complete new cable - may need to get wider and cut it down

best thread in the place by a long shot!:clap:
 
xxxgaryxxx said:
think my good lady's ready to dismantle my head from my shoulder's at the moment so probably nothing for the foreseeable;)
Click to expand...

well as long as she takes pictures so we can help with the re-assembly! :lol:
 
mmcp42 said:
crikey that's tiny
possibilities:
a) repair by soldering v v carefully - you might be able to strip back the plastic so you have something to work with
probably need a single starnd out of some multicore cable to bridge the gap
b) the other end is probably the same, so (e.g.) Maplins might have a complete new cable - may need to get wider and cut it down

best thread in the place by a long shot!:clap:
Click to expand...


cheers Mike.. I've tried the wire from a multi core cable.. tinned it and gave it a go but there just wasn't enough metal there to bond it to, it'd also create a bit of a problem getting the strip in to the tiny connector block

another option is rivet through the strip.. I've used tiny one's to repair PCB's in the past.... you then solder through the rivet and on to the back end of the connector on the PCB... I'll try this last as it's a bit permanent or at least a hassle if I have to dismantle the lens again i.e. to clear the misted element if it doesn't clear itself.... would need to desolder it from the board each time.

Anyways, as above... I'm going to give it a rest and do a bit of a write up to ensure that guide is available to all... can't find one of this detail on the net anywhere so it'd be a bit of a useful first. at least that's my hope.
 
mmcp42 said:
well as long as she takes pictures so we can help with the re-assembly! :lol:
Click to expand...

:lol: should be a doddle... there's only 3 connections between a bloke's brain and his body according to my wife... one for beer intake, one to induce sleep and the other.... well.. I'll leave that to someone else to type considering there's young'uns on the forum;)
 
sorry if this has been mentioned, but how did you get a 24-105mm L for £30!!!
 
jefferybond said:
Even with a fogged lens, the focus motor should wind the focus from one end to the other and back again, although if it can't actually get a focus, it won't take a picture.

Maybe the actual USM motor is seized up?

Jeff
Click to expand...

Jeff.. I've had a god look at the USM and it's the basic ring type.. there does look like there's rust on the outside so you may be right... if I can't get something going by fixing the electrical problem, that'll be my next course of action.. you can move it up and down with the finger so I'm guessing it's ok mechnically, just not getting a signal to make it vibrate, probably due to the broken strip (that particular one leads right to the motor).. thanks for the idea, it may come in to play later:thumbs:
 
visualisetheworld said:
sorry if this has been mentioned, but how did you get a 24-105mm L for £30!!!
Click to expand...


it was actually £20 + postage.. it was a lady selling it on Ebay.. I just happened upon the Buy It Now sale a few minute after she had posted it up. The lady had replaced it with her insurance so it was either give it to a good home at a knock down price or throw it in the skip... came with the front and rear caps but no hood.

I think it was a fair deal even knowing it was bust from the outset.
 
xxxgaryxxx said:
:lol: should be a doddle... there's only 3 connections between a bloke's brain and his body according to my wife... one for beer intake, one to induce sleep and the other.... well.. I'll leave that to someone else to type considering there's young'uns on the forum;)
Click to expand...

hee hee
sounds like she knows about these things!:lol::nuts:
 
does anyone know the function of each of the contacts on the EF mount please... I'm getting some interesting results by taping some of them over which will help me diagnose the problem if I know what their purpose in life is... cheers Gary
 
xxxgaryxxx said:
cheers Mike.. I've tried the wire from a multi core cable.. tinned it and gave it a go but there just wasn't enough metal there to bond it to, it'd also create a bit of a problem getting the strip in to the tiny connector block

another option is rivet through the strip.. I've used tiny one's to repair PCB's in the past.... you then solder through the rivet and on to the back end of the connector on the PCB... I'll try this last as it's a bit permanent or at least a hassle if I have to dismantle the lens again i.e. to clear the misted element if it doesn't clear itself.... would need to desolder it from the board each time.

Anyways, as above... I'm going to give it a rest and do a bit of a write up to ensure that guide is available to all... can't find one of this detail on the net anywhere so it'd be a bit of a useful first. at least that's my hope.
Click to expand...

I think I've found the solution Mike..... electical tape either side to ensure I dont short across to the good connections and then paint on a new connector over the one that's broken.... the theory sounds good and will hopefully make a tough job easy

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CONDUCTIVE-SI...ryZ75520QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
Interesting :)

I paid £75 for a 24-70 L that looked like it had had a fight with a tank and lost. I ended up sending it to fixation and they fixed it for around £500. The front element alone was £195 iirc, it also needed a new zoom assy. and a new mount. :eek:
works fine now though :) here's some of the damage before it was fixed...

IMG_4016copy.jpg


IMG_4018copy.jpg


IMG_4019copy.jpg


IMG_4020copy.jpg


Oh and as you can see the shattered glass from the filter had scratched the front element, this is why I personally only put on a filter when I need an effect like polariser or ND and never use a filter for protection as this is what they can do.
 
wow!! that's alot of money for a repair, certainly makes me feel the effort to learn how to do it DIY styly is worthwhile:thumbs:

I'm going to post a link to the document I've started tonight on the first page of this thread (nowhere near complete).. I hope to complete it in the next few days.

I'm pleased to say that the element that was severely fogged is now start to clear and I'm confident it'll clear completely in the next day or so.. the silver paint shoud arrive tomorrow or Saturday so I'll attempt a repair to the strip(s) and give the lens another go on the camera, hopefully within the next 48hrs.

Can you let me know what you think to the makings of the article please.. easy to follow or a bag of poo? I'll try and improve on the photo's!

cheers Gary
 
tried to download it
word says corrupt file :thinking:
 
I've converted it to a web page Mike... some of the format's been lost but still looks o.k.... I noticed a couple of spelling mistakes (anti status instead of anti static) and wil sort that later... will complete the entire document over the weekend and post it up.. cheers
 
Gary,
did you ever get this up and running?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top