Lens alignment and micro adjustments

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gpc1

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Greg
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Hi all

Anyone here align and calibrate their lenses to their bodies? (im a canon but a suppose i doesnt matter really) Do you use lens align or some other method / product. Im keen to do a check to see whether i have any back / front focus issues. Tried shooting a newspaper and a rough 45 deg angle but all in all not 100% accurate to say the least....

Or do you simply not worry about such things....
 
I use focal to do mine, each lens to each body. But I think maybe this should be moved to equipment & not business.
 
sorry, yes, probably should be moved.

I was looking at the Spyder lenscal.
 
sunnyside_up said:
How does that work then, Hugh?
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Basically I have a target on the wall, and run my camera tethered while the focal program tests each micro adjustment on the camera to see which gives the sharpest results, and tells me what the micro adjustment should be for each lens/body combination. Its easy to say, but it seems to produce a notable improvement, particularly using fast primes wide open. There are other programs do this as well, and you can if you wish us a ruler and some newspaper.
 
boyfalldown said:
Basically I have a target on the wall, and run my camera tethered while the focal program tests each micro adjustment on the camera to see which gives the sharpest results, and tells me what the micro adjustment should be for each lens/body combination. Its easy to say, but it seems to produce a notable improvement, particularly using fast primes wide open. There are other programs do this as well, and you can if you wish us a ruler and some newspaper.
Click to expand...


You couldn't indulge my laziness and post up a link to the program you use Hugh?
 
boyfalldown said:
Basically I have a target on the wall, and run my camera tethered while the focal program tests each micro adjustment on the camera to see which gives the sharpest results, and tells me what the micro adjustment should be for each lens/body combination. Its easy to say, but it seems to produce a notable improvement, particularly using fast primes wide open. There are other programs do this as well, and you can if you wish us a ruler and some newspaper.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I think I'll look into this further as I think a couple of my lens aren't quite right... specifically, my 50mm 1.4.... VERY soft wide open, 2.8 is probably a good starting point to use it.
 
sounds intriguing,

I was about to purchase a spyder lenscal.

I was thinking of getting one and then doing a share with it (maybe like the DVD thread)..perhaps people could make a donation to a charity, use the item, then post on tot he next in line. Afer 10 people it comes back to me....

Will have a think about it though.

Anyways, back to Focal.....
 
I have Focal as well but don't bother with it anymore. It is good for what to costs but for regular real world shooting I can get the focus adjustments close enough not to be able to tell the difference using a tripod and a static target (I use batteries in a row at slightly different distances from the camera).

One thing I've noticed is the more expensive the camera the less calibration each lens needs, i.e D3s + D800 need little if not none at all, whereas D7000, D5100 that I've had require more. Might just be coincidence but seems that its the bodies that need adjustment in some cases rather than the lenses.
 
gpc1 said:
thanks chaps, that looks like some pretty neat software..

How did you find using it, were you suprised at eth results...if any
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it is fine tuning, so will improve focus for lenses that are slightly out. If a lens is that far out that focus is improved dramatically with large adjustments, I'd be more inclined to have the lens calibrated by the manufacturer rather than putting a band-aid over it.
 
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I bought the middle version of Focal a couple of months back so that I could calibrate my lenses to my 5D2.
A few things to consider (some already mentioned).....

1. The fully automated calibration will not work with the 5D3. Instead you need manual intervention in the calibration process

2. You need very good light for the calibration to work. I really cannot stress this enough! When the calibration process is running, it automatically sets your camera to f8.0 @ ISO100. Ideally you should calibrate outside on a clear bright day to achieve good shutter speeds which are paramount to the success of the process. You will need a decent tripod and a relatively calm day (slight breeze ok) - this obviously depends on the quality / sturdiness of your tripod.
I have tried with various artificial light sources (including cheapo studio flash heads), but with little luck.

3. You need a decent amount of space - it is recommended that you place the camera between 25 - 50 x the focal length of the lens. For example, if calibrating a 50mm, you need between 25x50mm to 50x50mm (125cm - 250cm). Whilst that shouldn't be a problem for a 50mm, if you're calibrating a 70-200mm at the long end, then you need between 500cm to 1000cm.

I must admit that I have yet to complete my calibrations - very much due to item 2. Hopefully with the nice weather we are having now I should be able to do so in the next week or so.

Given the low cost and supposed simplicity of the process, I think that Focal is an excellent product.
Hope that helps!
 
did you use any specific paper to print the target or just regular A4?
 
"During the development, a lot of different printing methods and media were tested. For best results, you should print with an inkjet printer on matte heavyweight paper."

From the Reikan FAQs site.
 
FredDee said:
"During the development, a lot of different printing methods and media were tested. For best results, you should print with an inkjet printer on matte heavyweight paper."

From the Reikan FAQs site.
Click to expand...

ahh, missed that, thanks.
 
Focal for me, as Gary pointed out above lighting helps loads. I bought the basic package (5d3 for me which cant do any auto setup) and run through every micro adjustment on the camera then upload and let the software tell me which is the best adjustment. It pretty much agrees with my eye on the photos as well. I found the tethered option to be poor, annoyed me you couldnt adjust the screen size of the target image, just zoom in the box.
 
PDub said:
I found the tethered option to be poor, annoyed me you couldnt adjust the screen size of the target image, just zoom in the box.
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Yep same here - It works, but could be better (the User Interface)
Especially when I am using a laptop with hi-res screen.
Oh, and if calibrating outside in bright light, my laptop screen is hard to see - even at full brightness.

Not trying to put you off at all. It is a great bit of software (for the price), but could be improved upon.
 
FredDee said:
"During the development, a lot of different printing methods and media were tested. For best results, you should print with an inkjet printer on matte heavyweight paper."

From the Reikan FAQs site.
Click to expand...


its says for best results to use this, has anyone just used 'normal' A4 and stuck it to the wall and been successful. I dont own a pronter so would have to get a target printed if i wanted to use a matte heavyweight paper / inkjet
 
gpc1 said:
its says for best results to use this, has anyone just used 'normal' A4 and stuck it to the wall and been successful. I dont own a pronter so would have to get a target printed if i wanted to use a matte heavyweight paper / inkjet
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If I go for this option i will probably print out a target on heavy duty German etching paper. I could post you one down.
 
Stevie- said:
If I go for this option i will probably print out a target on heavy duty German etching paper. I could post you one down.
Click to expand...
That's very kind of you, thanks. Will pm you my address.
 
I've tried a friends lens align and it works ok but I really didn't find it any better than the DIY set up I used before so I didn't buy one.

I use 5 high contrast small tins (Colmans mustard tins actually) which are set at 45 degrees on a square of MDF. The MDF has lines drawn on it at 5 cm intervals. I place the front edge of each tin on a line so I have a depth of field 10 cm in front and 10 cm behind the middle tin.

Then I set up the camera at 25 times the focal distance on a direct line and at the same height as the centre tin.

Then I shoot wide open and check the screen. I find that it takes 10 minutes max to get the adjustment pretty much spot on. I usually take 4 images each time as there will be an odd one that is out.

I know that the DOF on my 500 @ f4 focused at 12.5 metres is around 14 cms so I should see the centre tin and the first tin in front and first tin behind in focus and the others drifting OOF.

Once I'm happy then I take a series of pics wide open at various distances and angles as a final check. Simples and cheap. :)
 
I don't ever over complicate things.

I bought a 28/1.8 from on here. Switched the kettle on. Put the 28mm on the 5D2. Sat on the bed & focused/shot an image as usual. Looked a little front focusing. Added +3. Shot again. Spot on. Forgot about it & just used it since. Went downstairs & made a coffee :)
 
LeeRatters said:
I don't ever over complicate things.

I bought a 28/1.8 from on here. Switched the kettle on. Put the 28mm on the 5D2. Sat on the bed & focused/shot an image as usual. Looked a little front focusing. Added +3. Shot again. Spot on. Forgot about it & just used it since. Went downstairs & made a coffee :)
Click to expand...
simplicity is sometimesthe key lol

great flickr stream by the way. lovely editng and sharpness to th eimages...can almost feel the textures on some of those!
 
Another vote for focal, been using it for over a year, excellent programme. Takes all the guesswork out of MFA, and works with extenders as well.
 
I brought the pro version, works ok, but as stated needs plenty of light to get good consistent results
 
I use a halogen floodlight on the target, gives a nice consistent result.
 
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