Lencarta Smart Flash 200 Keeps Blowing Modelling Bulbs

ianbarber said:
Has anyone had any issues with a Lencarta Smart Flash 200 blowing modelling bulbs. I have gone through 5 bulbs in 3 weeks.
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Are you leaving it on whilst using honeycombs or in a snoot Ian?
 
Mm
Bulbs tend not to blow due to what they're connected to, it's usually environmental, straight from Lencarta or eBay bargains? Are you cleaning them of any oily residue before use?

Have you tried a voltmeter across the contacts 'just in case'.
 
Phil V said:
Mm
Bulbs tend not to blow due to what they're connected to, it's usually environmental, straight from Lencarta or eBay bargains? Are you cleaning them of any oily residue before use?

Have you tried a voltmeter across the contacts 'just in case'.
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If the modelling bulbs are the standard E27 long tube style ones i found when googling the flash head then the outer casing is protective glass so oil/grease shouldnt be an issue.

Its only the smaller projector style lamps and the flash tubes themselves that are in danger from fingerprints/oil.

Definitely worth checking the Voltage if you have a multimeter.
 
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ianbarber said:
After closer inspection, it appears that the ceramic bulb holder is cracked.

Looks as though its a bin job then. The flash part is fine, in-fact, I have never used the flash as I only use the modelling lamp for my still life photographs
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Time to learn to use it properly then ;)
 
ianbarber said:
I asked for that I guess
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Seriously, the heat of constant modelling lamp use is probably what broke it. We rarely use modelling lamps continuously.

I don't know what's stopping you using the flash Ian. We always say 'light is light', you'll get exactly the same images using flash as using the modelling lamp, but quicker and easier (unless you've been mixing with ambient - in which case it's a small learning curve)
 
Phil V said:
I don't know what's stopping you using the flash Ian. We always say 'light is light'
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I have never really mastered flash to the extent that I am comfortable with it. Now I am using the 5x4, exposing a lot of film to experiment can work out costly.

I used the modelling lamp so I could see exactly what I was getting, there is one major flaw in my method and that is it takes me into reciprocity very quickly.

Now using the 5x4 I understand that I can use any shutter speed for the flash. My only concern is getting my head round not been able to see the effect of the lighting prior to the flash firing
 
Shame about the holder. If youre technically minded you could probaby open up the head and replace it but you'd need to bleed the capacitors with a resistor before you touch any of tge circuitry.

Seeing as you're only using the modelling light, are there not cheaper solutions than buying a complete flash head? All you really need is a plug and a light socket.
 
ianbarber said:
I have never really mastered flash to the extent that I am comfortable with it. Now I am using the 5x4, exposing a lot of film to experiment can work out costly.

I used the modelling lamp so I could see exactly what I was getting, there is one major flaw in my method and that is it takes me into reciprocity very quickly.

Now using the 5x4 I understand that I can use any shutter speed for the flash. My only concern is getting my head round not been able to see the effect of the lighting prior to the flash firing
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Test with digital.

In film days they used Polaroid backs, it's the same principal. And no worries about reciprocity.

Though you could do with the modelling lamp, how olds the head? Lencartas warranty and repair service are very good.

(And if it's really old - a replacement is cheap)
 
A bowens speedlite adapter will give you a way to mount your softboxes directly to a light stand. From there you'd just need to bolt a plate to it where the speedlite would normally go and put your (correctly rated) lamp holder through that with a dimmer switch in-line.

Should be do-able for about £25 all-in
 
ianbarber said:
Its about 3 years old I reckon. The modelling lamp output is fixed on mine, I believe the newer models have variable output so I think I might just bin this one and buy a new one.
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If it's the original model (which it seems to be then it's definately more than 3 years old and out of warranty).
But personally I can't see why a cracked ceramic holder could cause this problem, and it's unlikely to be any problem with the flash head, much more likely to be a problem with the bulbs.

But the comments about using the relatively very powerful flash instead of the modelling lamp for your actual exposure are spot on - you're just making life hard for yourself, for no actual gain.
 
Garry Edwards said:
But personally I can't see why a cracked ceramic holder could cause this problem, and it's unlikely to be any problem with the flash head, much more likely to be a problem with the bulbs.
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I never thought about the bulbs. I purchased them from ebay.
 
ianbarber said:
I have never really mastered flash to the extent that I am comfortable with it. Now I am using the 5x4, exposing a lot of film to experiment can work out costly.

I used the modelling lamp so I could see exactly what I was getting, there is one major flaw in my method and that is it takes me into reciprocity very quickly.

Now using the 5x4 I understand that I can use any shutter speed for the flash. My only concern is getting my head round not been able to see the effect of the lighting prior to the flash firing
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You mean exposure reciprocity law failure? There is only one way around that - more light. It's what flash was invented for. You'll get proper colours too.

The modelling lamp is supposed to replicate the effect of the flash, and mostly it'l be pretty close, identical with a softbox. With reciprocity failure sorted, exposures should be much more predictable.

A lot of people have an irrational fear of flash. You just need to give it a try, and you won't look back (y)
 
HoppyUK said:
he modelling lamp is supposed to replicate the effect of the flash, and mostly it'l be pretty close, identical with a softbox.
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If I have got the lighting how I like with just the modelling light, do I just adjust the flash output power to match the aperture value I want to use
 
ianbarber said:
If I have got the lighting how I like with just the modelling light, do I just adjust the flash output power to match the aperture value I want to use
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Yes.
ISO/aperture to be precise.
 
ianbarber said:
Thanks Phil.

Out of interest, would any E27 bulb work as a modelling light
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Maybe, maybe not. Check the handbook (available on-line) or ask Lencarta, though I guess they'll say use the proper bulb. They may have a point as some modelling lamps are over-run to produce higher brightness than specified. This could be related to your problems. Also, some regular bulbs won't clear the flash tube.

Do you have a flash meter? You can't really shoot film without. If you need super-high f/numbers like f/64 on 5x4, with still-life an old trick is to fire multiple flashes on B in a darkened studio - 2 flashes for one stop extra, 4 for two stops, 8 for three stops etc.
 
ianbarber said:
Thanks Phil.

Out of interest, would any E27 bulb work as a modelling light
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What Richard said.

But if you really want to go down the route of making your own S type continuous light source, you ought to be looking at a CFL with a very high CRI.
 
Before retiring last night, I tried an experiment.

I put a CFL bulb into the flash head and used it for guidance on the still life. This time, I used the flash for the exposure via a sync chord.

I metered it at 1/125th @ f/11 and because of bellows extension I added an extra stop giving a total of 1/60th & f/11.

I am just warming up the developer now and will develop the sheet in a short while
 
ianbarber said:
Before retiring last night, I tried an experiment.

I put a CFL bulb into the flash head and used it for guidance on the still life. This time, I used the flash for the exposure via a sync chord.

I metered it at 1/125th @ f/11 and because of bellows extension I added an extra stop giving a total of 1/60th & f/11.

I am just warming up the developer now and will develop the sheet in a short while
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How's the print Ian?
 
I was quite surprised how the exposure turned out, good tonal range throughout the image.

I am not sure the CFL bulb I used was the best choice but it did prove to me that careful measurement of the scene with a flash meter and adjusting the flash power to match the ISO/Aperture does work.

The type of Still Life Images I like to make are quite dark and moody so I am guessing now that a proper modelling lamp maybe the way to go.
 
ianbarber said:
I was quite surprised how the exposure turned out, good tonal range throughout the image.

I am not sure the CFL bulb I used was the best choice but it did prove to me that careful measurement of the scene with a flash meter and adjusting the flash power to match the ISO/Aperture does work.

The type of Still Life Images I like to make are quite dark and moody so I am guessing now that a proper modelling lamp maybe the way to go.
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The only difference between a modelling lamp in a softbox and a flash tube in a softbox is the 1/125 vs 1/4 sec exposure.

When you've come to photography from on camera flash you associate flash with 'harsh' but it's a trick of the mind, a flash in a large softbox or behind a scrim is just like windowlight.

Best analogy to hand:

The sun in a clear blue sky is a point light source, harsh light, hard shadows.

The same sun behind total cloud cover on an overcast day is a big soft light source that barely creates a shadow.
https://flic.kr/p/AQNWgf
 
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ianbarber said:
Im wondering if I used the digital camera and flash like a polaroid if the actual sheet film would be very close when developed
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Should be.

Apart from the improved tonal range, different DoF etc.

You'll be able to see the lighting changes though.
 
ianbarber said:
Before retiring last night, I tried an experiment.

I put a CFL bulb into the flash head and used it for guidance on the still life. This time, I used the flash for the exposure via a sync chord.

I metered it at 1/125th @ f/11 and because of bellows extension I added an extra stop giving a total of 1/60th & f/11.

I am just warming up the developer now and will develop the sheet in a short while
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Flash is definately the way to go.
The SmartFlash wasn't designed for use with a LF camera, typically shooting at around f/45, but as Richard pointed out, with a still life subject you can use multiple pops to allow the use of small apertures.

To get some kind of relationship between continuous lighting output and flash output, work on the following basis:
200Ws flash (eg your SmartFlash) outputs about as much light during the brief flash of around 1/400th second as a 200 Watt continuous lamp puts out in 1 second, i.e. about 400 x as much power from the flash as from the modelling lamp.
EXCEPT that the modelling lamp gets hot, and about 2/3rds of its energy is output in the form of heat, rather than light, so the flash contributes about 1200 x as much power as the modelling lamp does.

The CFL lamp that you used is of course much bigger than the modelling lamp, and because of this it won't give you a very accurate indication (compared to the indication provided by the modelling lamp) of the flash effect.
 
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