Just a quick post for anyone who may be interested. My Phottix Odin's will trigger my new lencarta safari 2 flash at 1/8000 with NO banding. I've only done testing indoors so not sure how that will equate to necessary flash power outside using modifiers but the implications are fantastic.
Lencarta Safari 2 + Phottix Odin's - 1/8000!
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Garry Edwards
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Yes, that's very good news, and thanks for posting it.
There's some interesting info on this feature here
As far as power goes, in theory you won't lose any flash power at all as long as the shutter speed is no faster than the t.1 time of the flash, because all of the flash power will be used and the only effect on the exposure will be a reduced contribution from the ambient light.
Once the speed of the shutter is faster than the flash duration, the contribution of the ambient and the flash light will be equal to each other, e.g. there's no point in setting the shutter to 1/8000th unless you're doing it to freeze motion or allow a larger lens aperture, because the ratio will be the same as at 1/2000th.
There's some interesting info on this feature here
As far as power goes, in theory you won't lose any flash power at all as long as the shutter speed is no faster than the t.1 time of the flash, because all of the flash power will be used and the only effect on the exposure will be a reduced contribution from the ambient light.
Once the speed of the shutter is faster than the flash duration, the contribution of the ambient and the flash light will be equal to each other, e.g. there's no point in setting the shutter to 1/8000th unless you're doing it to freeze motion or allow a larger lens aperture, because the ratio will be the same as at 1/2000th.
Garry Edwards
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No, that was just by way of an example. Actual flash durations depend on the power setting, here's an extract from our webpage
Flash duration at full power, t.5. 1/4500th sec
Flash duration at half power, t.5 1/3200th sec
Flash duration at quarter power, t.5 1/2700th sec
Flash duration at eigth power, t.5 1/3000th sec
Flash duration at sixteenth power, t.5 1/2550th sec
Flash duration at thirtysecond power, t.5 1/1800th sec
Flash duration at full power, t.1. 1/1500th sec
Flash duration at half power, t.1 1/1000th sec
Flash duration at quarter power, t.1 1/900th sec
Flash duration at eigth power, t.1 1/1000th sec
Flash duration at sixteenth power, t.1 850 th sec
Flash duration at thirtysecond power, t.1 1/600th sec
Phil V
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What triggers are you using Adam?
Sir SR
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I've just tested through the timing range on the 622TX and I can't get close to a clean frame at anything over sync speed
Is this peculiar to the safari or canon?
I didn't do a scientific test but shot using the smartflash 1 at 1/800 using the yongnuo (example below)
Admittedly I've not looked at the t times to compare?
Selfie Colour by Sir SR, on Flickr
Phil V
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I think it's a camera / trigger combo thing, but that's just a hunch.Is this peculiar to the safari or canon?
I didn't do a scientific test but shot using the smartflash 1 at 1/800 using the yongnuo (example below)
Admittedly I've not looked at the t times to compare?
Selfie Colour by Sir SR, on Flickr
HoppyUK
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It's not possible to use the tail-sync technique without noticeable fading of the brightness from bottom to top of the frame. The precise result depends on the flash duration (mostly) and camera type and trigger (partly) and varies from acceptable, to totally useless - the longer the flash duration the better.
And there is always very substantial loss of brightness/exposure, the higher the shutter speed the greater the loss. The t.1 time is a factor, but much more significant is how much of the frame is uncovered at any one time. At 1/8000sec you'll only be getting a tiny fraction of the total light output - at that speed, the slit in the focal plane shutter is only about 1mm. In reality, at faster shutter speeds in the thousanths, the loss of brightness is several stops and more.
And there is always very substantial loss of brightness/exposure, the higher the shutter speed the greater the loss. The t.1 time is a factor, but much more significant is how much of the frame is uncovered at any one time. At 1/8000sec you'll only be getting a tiny fraction of the total light output - at that speed, the slit in the focal plane shutter is only about 1mm. In reality, at faster shutter speeds in the thousanths, the loss of brightness is several stops and more.
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