LED TV Panasonic V Toshiba

Panasonic V Toshiba

  • Total voters
    3
I'm not a TV expert, but without model numbers is that not a bit like asking which is best, Canon or Nikon?
 
well been looking at a few, most makers TV in a range are much the same so it more of who gives best over all pic and sound
two I have looked at are
Toshiba 40L3453DB 40 Inch Smart WiFi Built In Full HD 1080p LED TV,
Panasonic TX-42A400B 42 Inch Full HD 1080p LED TV With Freeview HD
 
They aren't really LED TVs so don't expect the colour reproduction and dynamic range of OLED. The colour space will approximate sRGB on all of them.
 
This recent trend of calling LCD screen "LED" is very misleading. The LED aspect is the backlighting... Any TV that is not a plasma, and you don't need a mortgage to buy, is almost certainly a LCD TV.. not LED.
 
Pookeyhead said:
This recent trend of calling LCD screen "LED" is very misleading. The LED aspect is the backlighting... Any TV that is not a plasma, and you don't need a mortgage to buy, is almost certainly a LCD TV.. not LED.
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liquid crystals and polarized light
As LCDs do not produce light themselves the LED is the light source and the LCD is only the switch to turn on or off (polarized) so this is much better the the older CCFL backlighting So I do not agree that it is misleading at all.
st999 As for colour gambit being only sRGB is this not what you monitors screen is?
 
Chaz Photos said:
liquid crystals and polarized light
As LCDs do not produce light themselves the LED is the light source and the LCD is only the switch to turn on or off (polarized) so this is much better the the older CCFL backlighting So I do not agree that it is misleading at all.
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It is misleading. We never used to call cold cathode lit LCD panels "CCFL TVs" did we? :) It's misleading because there ARE LED TVs... and these are HUGELY superior to LCD, but are massively expensive, and calling LCD panels "LED" is misleading people into thinking they have a LED TV when they do not.

It's a LCD TV.. it just uses LEDs to light it. The image you see is generated by a LCD panel. The LCD is NOT just a switch (on=black, off=clear) at all, it's fully 6, 8 or 10bit capable and produces the entire range of tones, and colours you see. CCFL is still used in high end monitors because the colour gamut is MUCH wider with CCFL. Only true RGB LED backlighting is capable of wide gamuts, and as TVs don't need this, they use cheap as chips white LEDs.

Chaz Photos said:
st999 As for colour gambit being only sRGB is this not what you monitors screen is?
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No... my monitor is fully Adobe RGB1998 capable. 100% Adobe RGB gamut.

You're misinformed.


Anyway.... going HUGELY off topic. Start another thread if you want to discuss this.
 
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st599 said:
They aren't really LED TVs so don't expect the colour reproduction and dynamic range of OLED. The colour space will approximate sRGB on all of them.
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Why would you want a wider than sRGB colour reproduction? HD TV is filmed in REC709 which is pretty much equivalent to sRGB. Until we get to 4k sets where the colour gamut is higher, we're stuck with 709 for HD (and 601 for SD).
 
If you're using it as a monitor for pictures, many cameras shoot more than sRGB and embed a profile. You may see this on a PC monitor but not on a ITU-R BT.709 display.
 
Ahh./.. that'll teach me to read the first post fully.

The answer is us a decent monitor for a PC and a TV as a TV.....
 
Chaz Photos said:
No it main use is a TV second is as a large screen teaching LR and PS
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Which just means you should process in sRGB then (which is really what you should do unless you have a completely calibrated workflow AND a final output device that is wider gamut...).

I would err to the Panny personally, but that's only from product reputation rather than knowing anything about those two TVs particularly.
 
arad85 said:
Which just means you should process in sRGB then (which is really what you should do unless you have a completely calibrated workflow AND a final output device that is wider gamut...).

I would err to the Panny personally, but that's only from product reputation rather than knowing anything about those two TVs particularly.
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Not sure why I would want to work in sRGB for PP, all my work is calibrated from camera to printer, if you wish to PP then you start with a much info as you can, if your output printing then is the only time to convert to sRGB. but as my question had noting to do which the fore and agents of sRGb!
 
Chaz Photos said:
Not sure why I would want to work in sRGB for PP, all my work is calibrated from camera to printer, if you wish to PP then you start with a much info as you can, if your output printing then is the only time to convert to sRGB. but as my question had noting to do which the fore and agents of sRGb!
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Which is exactly what I said. Use sRGB unless you have a fully calibrated workflow.... Disagree with conversion at output if your primary output is sRGB though...
 
arad85 said:
Which is exactly what I said. Use sRGB unless you have a fully calibrated workflow.... Disagree with conversion at output if your primary output is sRGB though...
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I would say to anyone doing PP you need max info, as for output I was meaning outputting to a outside printer then sRGB unless they supply a profile of there own. (as to outputting it to your own printer)
 
Chaz Photos said:
I would say to anyone doing PP you need max info, as for output I was meaning outputting to a outside printer then sRGB unless they supply a profile of there own. (as to outputting it to your own printer)
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There is no loss of information when you choose sRGB - it is just interpreted differently by the colour space. All that changes with different colour spaces is that a particular RGB value represents a different colour - depending on the colour space. The problem with editing in a wide gamut colour space is that when you convert to sRGB you lose saturation, which dulls the picture. Output for me is either the web or DSCL if I'm printing who are sRGB. Personally, I have my whole flow in sRGB so I can get the colours as I want them and then output rather than editing in a wide gamut and then losing that saturation when outputting as the image is then different to how I've edited....
 
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