Learn with MD Lesson No2.

..MD..

..MD..

Helen Shapiro
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MonkeyDave
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:wave: After such a good responce from the 1st lesson I thought we would have another go.:clap:

SHUTTER SPEEDS..

As title this weeks will be shutter speeds. I would like everyone that wants to take part to take two photos again.

I would like us to take photos of a small ball " well any size ball really" I would like you to drop the ball from any height you like. And we will try to get one with motion blur and freeze the other..


Photo one

I would like a shutter speed of 800th sec or slightly higher..

Photo two

I would like a shutter speed of 30th sec or your closest to that.

Hope this make sense again. Distance from ball is your choice . ISO is your choice. and use whatever Fstop you would like " or feel comfy with"


So its two shots of a ball. One freezing it & one bluring it:rules:

MD


:wave: Good luck
 
i take it this ball is moving ?

:)

Great thread idea btw .
 
RobertP said:
i take it this ball is moving ?

:)

Great thread idea btw .
Click to expand...

Ah I thought I had missed something I will amend that now..

And its a dropped ball...

Dave:thumbs:

And thanks I just hope it carries on there is so many things we could do..
 
Will do my best, busy week this week so can't promise anything, but I'll try. Trouble is when I drop a ball round here the dog runs off with it.
 
Great idea! (and chance to use my remote trigger :D )

Though I'll definitely have to dig out my tripod now.
 
ki_user said:
Do you think it'd be a good idea to link this page from lesson 1?
Click to expand...



It is :thumbs:

I was the last person to post there and its linked in the last post.


MD
 
Here's mine...
Not quite sure why the second one is darker... I guess I could have increased the iso?...

f/11 1/30
DSC_4431.jpg


f/4 1/800
DSC_4442.jpg
 
beercan said:
Not quite sure why the second one is so dark...
Click to expand...
...because the shutter speed is faster, thus open for a shorter amount of time, thus less light gets in.

Adjust ISO to compensate for the reduced light, or f-stop to actually allow more light in.

Did I get that right? :thinking:
 
Steve,

Speeding the shutter from 1/30 to 1/800 will make the image dimmer by 4 2/3 stops. Thats....

1/30 to 1/60 is 1 stop
1/60 to 1/125 is another stop, so that's 2 stops in total
1/125 to 1/250 is another stop, so that's 3 stops in total
1/250 to 1/500 is another stop, so that's 4 stops in total
1/500 to 1/800 is 2/3 stop, so that's 4 2/3 stops in total

Opening the aperture from f/11 to f/4 will make the image brighter by only 3 stops. That's....

f/11 to f/8 is 1 stop
f/8 to f/5.6 is another stop, so that's 2 stops in total
f/5.6 to f/4 is another stop, so that's 3 stops in total

Therefore your second shot is 1 2/3 stops dimmer than the original.

You needed to make up that shortfall either with an increase in ISO and/or (if available) opening up the aperture even wider.

Still, your two images illustrate the point to be made about shutter speed and motion control very well. :thumbs:
 
beercan said:
Here's mine...
Not quite sure why the second one is darker... I guess I could have increased the iso?...

f/11 1/30
DSC_4431.jpg


f/4 1/800
DSC_4442.jpg
Click to expand...

F11 @ 1/30th is not the same exposure as f4 @ 1/800th as going down from f11 to f4 is 3 stops, whereas going up from 1/30th to 1/800th is 4.6 stops

Hence the second shot is underexposed by 1.6 stops compared to the first one - so if you couldn't open your aperture more than f4 you would have had to increase the ISO to compensate :)

Nice first example though :thumbs:

DD
 
tdodd said:
Steve,

Speeding the shutter from 1/30 to 1/800 will make the image dimmer by 4 2/3 stops. Thats....

1/30 to 1/60 is 1 stop
1/60 to 1/125 is another stop, so that's 2 stops in total
1/125 to 1/250 is another stop, so that's 3 stops in total
1/250 to 1/500 is another stop, so that's 4 stops in total
1/500 to 1/800 is 2/3 stop, so that's 4 2/3 stops in total

Opening the aperture from f/11 to f/4 will make the image brighter by only 3 stops. That's....

f/11 to f/8 is 1 stop
f/8 to f/5.6 is another stop, so that's 2 stops in total
f/5.6 to f/4 is another stop, so that's 3 stops in total

Therefore your second shot is 1 2/3 stops dimmer than the original.

You needed to make up that shortfall either with an increase in ISO and/or (if available) opening up the aperture even wider.

Still, your two images illustrate the point to be made about shutter speed and motion control very well. :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Might as well delete my post - this is a better/fuller explanation anyway :D

DD
 
Dave please leave your post matey...


Its better to have lots of threads for people to get what they want from...

Regards

Dave:thumbs:
 
Hey that's great - thanks guys!
Makes sense now. :bonk:
 
beercan said:
Hey that's great - thanks guys!
Makes sense now. :bonk:
Click to expand...



Bloody good idea these threads everyone will learn something and we have some very helpfull members on here....


MD
 
And full credit goes to Steve for rushing straight out to get the shots.:clap::clap::clap:

Poor child didn't even get to put his shoes on before being dragged out to throw the ball :D:D:D
 
LOL! I did have to drag him away from the wii with one of those "when I was a lad we actually went outside and threw a proper ball round. Here - let me show you how" speeches. :)
 
beercan said:
LOL! I did have to drag him away from the wii with one of those "when I was a lad we actually went outside and threw a proper ball round. Here - let me show you how" speeches. :)
Click to expand...




Lol

and a great example it was too..!!!!


It will be interesting to see how others go about this one...
Some great advice already given that could help others .


If you feel you want to do another two feel free buddy... And thanks for your fast responce to the thread..



MD
 
Again will try and sort mine over the weekend, trying to get my head round the F stop bit at the minute :-)

I am assuming I should use the S program on the D50 and set the shutter speed from there or go all in and try full manual ??
 
p3ryg said:
Again will try and sort mine over the weekend, trying to get my head round the F stop bit at the minute :-)

I am assuming I should use the S program on the D50 and set the shutter speed from there or go all in and try full manual ??
Click to expand...


Personally I would try manual..

set the Fstop you want and the shutter speed. And iso.


If the shot is to dark lower the fstop / or increase the iso...


Its a great learning curve..


MD
 
Glad someone posted an example, I was thinking how the heck am I going to pan a dropped ball to get motion blur in the background :D my love of motorsport blamed for that one....might give it a go anyway, it'll be a challenge!
 
Paul, I was wondering the same... not enough hands... to throw ball, pan and everything ...
 
My advice to anyone doing this is either:
Tripod, remote release, or assistant.
It's bloody hard work trying to throw in the right place, and grab, focus and snap at the right time! :cuckoo:
 
Guys you dont have to pan the ball .. Its the ball we want blurred in the second shot..

MD
 
My attempt in the rear garden, camera on tripod with remote shutter release and me as the ball dropper just off camera of course.

1st shot was set @ 1/30 but the sun went in so it dropped to 1/6 :bonk: Focal length 78mm shutter speed 1/6 sec apeture f8 iso 100

2nd shot Focal length 78mm shutter speed 1/800 sec apeture f8 iso 3200


 
foggy4ever said:
My attempt in the rear garden, camera on tripod with remote shutter release and me as the ball dropper just off camera of course.

1st shot was set @ 1/30 but the sun went in so it dropped to 1/6 :bonk: Focal length 78mm shutter speed 1/6 sec apeture f8 iso 100

2nd shot Focal length 78mm shutter speed 1/800 sec apeture f8 iso 3200


Click to expand...


Thats the way matey..

Nice blur on the 1st and nice frozen second..


MD
 
4783232602_7047065ffe.jpg

1/800 f5 iso400

4783232588_a84d1efb3a.jpg

1/30 f8 iso100

Thank you to my assistant. First time I have changed iso!
 
Ball1.jpg


Ball2.jpg


Exif should be intact but still one was at f2.8, ISO800, 1/1000s, 55mm

The only thing I had to be wary of with this was to prefocus or track as the shallow depth of field at f2.8 would have caused it be out otherwise.

The second was at f6.3, ISO100, 1/30, 52mm

With this one, focus was less critical due to the smaller aperture and the ball being blurred anyway.

Both were taken manual mode with metering checked against the ball before taking the shots.
 
Oooh, need to do this tomorrow now that I have my "house models" ;) back from summer camp
 
A note from my Mum

Dear Mr MD
Sorry that Barry's homework has not been completed this week yet. Due to the fact that his work this week required him leaving the house it has caused a problem. Usually I don't let him wander too far from the house on his own but I was prepared to let him complete this exercise to further his education. However the weather since Thursday has really not been great and I didn't want to risk him catching a summer cold (he complains far too much) There was a bright spell this afternoon but unfortunately none of his friends were around to help him. (I say friends, I mean the one who tolerates him)
Hopefully he can complete his work in the next couple of days and still hand it in on time.

Yours sincerely,

Mrs Sprout
 
Barrysprout said:
A note from my Mum

Dear Mr MD
Sorry that Barry's homework has not been completed this week yet. Due to the fact that his work this week required him leaving the house it has caused a problem. Usually I don't let him wander too far from the house on his own but I was prepared to let him complete this exercise to further his education. However the weather since Thursday has really not been great and I didn't want to risk him catching a summer cold (he complains far too much) There was a bright spell this afternoon but unfortunately none of his friends were around to help him. (I say friends, I mean the one who tolerates him)
Hopefully he can complete his work in the next couple of days and still
hand it in on time.

Yours sincerely,

Mrs Sprout
Click to expand...

That actually made me Lol.......


Mr MD

Lol
 
Well then, now that the house models are back from summer camp, I've put them back to work again :lol: Dropping balls in this house is difficult due to dogs, so we did it another way instead. Nothing if not inventive here ;)


Both were taken with 50mm with ISO 100 and hand held :)



1/400 f/8.0 - just cropped and sharpened for screen via lightroom



1/15 f/22 - brightness and exposure adjusted a touch in lightroom

Pleased with the exposure on 1st shot, but 2nd was well overexposed, even though I closed down to f/22. Can this only be overcome by the use of filters?
 
Apologies for the short answer. It was late. I guess I was meaning within the bounds of the task it would have helped but as Tim said, there would be less movement. My understanding is that as you were at ISO100 and f22, if you wanted to retain that shutter speed then a filter would be the right choice. A polarising filter would make some difference and also take away water reflections or a Neutral Density (ND) filter at a strength of your choice. Depending on the strength you could then open up the aperture.
 
Hmmm, I have a polarising filter - must find it and have a play with it. Project for today methinks
 
Hi,

Here's mine. I did them on Sunday am, not too happy with the dull light so hoped to redo during the week but no luck.

Note how happy my lad looks!

Both taken hand held on manual at 70mm. EXIF should be intact

1. 1/30th
LWTP_2_30thSec.jpg


2. 1/800th - there is still some motion in the ball?
LWTP_2_800thSec.jpg
 
I've had to bend the rules a little, as I wanted to try an experiment with flash, so my pair are at 1/200 and 1/15 instead of 1/800 and 1/30. I hope that's OK.

20100714_142059_4519_LR.jpg


20100714_141926_4517_LR.jpg
 
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