Lastolite HiLite & Lencarta SmartFlash

ed_o_brain

ed_o_brain

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Daniel
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Hi,

I have a commercial space available to me from which I can offer basic portrait services, at a prominent location which is very convenient to the local high street.

I'm considering buying:

http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-lastolite-hilite-background-6x7-feet/p1016777 - Lastolite HiLite
+
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-lastolite-superwhite-vinyl-cleanable-train-5x7-feet/p1016778 - Lastolie train

And in terms of lighting, http://www.lencarta.com/smartflash-...ter-kit-with-1-softbox-+-1-umbrella/index.php - Lencarta SmartFlash 200 2 head starter kit.


I would use one flash head for the background (obviously) and then the other flash head and umbrella as the key light.

Are the SmartFlash heads going to be up to the job? I know I'm going to have to light the background a stop or two higher. Am I going to end up with any light fall off towards the far edges?


With the SmartFlashes stand up to the job? I'm planning and gearing myself up to sell to families who want portraits as gifts to the relatives for Christmas, so I'll probably do a solid couple of weeks shooting in late October/early November.

Aside from that, I'll probably be doing the odd shoot at home for pleasure and travelling to clients homes to do shoots at weekends.

I'm on a limited budget - ideally I'd by pro flash heads straight out, but I'm happy to buy those later on if I actually manage to generate some income from this venture.

Thanks
Daniel
 
The Smartflash is what I was going to buy at the show a couple of months ago, however because I don't have a studio space, a mains kit would have been pointless. It is well made and at the price point you can't go wrong. It has far more capacitors in the head than any of it's rivals and would be a good get you started kit...

I had looked at the budget interfit kit in jessops and glad I didn't buy it.. I have since been given a mains powered system.
Though for serious shooting I plan to get the Lencarta Safari as being portable and go anywhere suits me perfectly.
 
With the SmartFlashes stand up to the job?
Click to expand...
Yes they will, unlike most entry-level flash heads they are fan cooled, so can be used continually without risk of overheating. Although they were launched as a cheaper alternative to the ElitePro range, they've been bought in very large numbers by event photographers, and these guys really do put any light to the test...
I know I'm going to have to light the background a stop or two higher. Am I going to end up with any light fall off towards the far edges?
Click to expand...
This is going to be a problem if you only use (any) one flash head in your Hi-lite, it's designed to be used with 2 heads. You can work around it by using a higher power setting (as you say, 1 or 2 stops) to make sure that there is adequate light on the 'dark side' but it isn't ideal because what you should be doing is to set the minimum possible level of overexposure, say 0.5 - 0.7 of a stop, and that won't be possible if you only use one light, so you should get 2 lights for the background if you possibly can.

Due to a combination of very high sales and the volcanic ash cloud, stocks are very low and it's my guess that the SmartFlash heads will be out of stock very soon now. I only mention this because I'm not trying to talk you into spending more money, just trying to give you useful advice.
 
I have spent ages comparing studio flash and still cant make my mind up between Lencarta and Elemental! Also found this one:

http://www.photodeals.co.uk/product.php?productid=126&cat=0&page=0&featured=Y

which seems like a good step up from the other 2.

I dont know why I cant decide on which studio flash, its really cheap compared to lens, camera bodies and speedlights, and you do get a lot for your money!

Personally I think any of these will be fine.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Yes they will, unlike most entry-level flash heads they are fan cooled, so can be used continually without risk of overheating. Although they were launched as a cheaper alternative to the ElitePro range, they've been bought in very large numbers by event photographers, and these guys really do put any light to the test...
This is going to be a problem if you only use (any) one flash head in your Hi-lite, it's designed to be used with 2 heads. You can work around it by using a higher power setting (as you say, 1 or 2 stops) to make sure that there is adequate light on the 'dark side' but it isn't ideal because what you should be doing is to set the minimum possible level of overexposure, say 0.5 - 0.7 of a stop, and that won't be possible if you only use one light, so you should get 2 lights for the background if you possibly can.

Due to a combination of very high sales and the volcanic ash cloud, stocks are very low and it's my guess that the SmartFlash heads will be out of stock very soon now. I only mention this because I'm not trying to talk you into spending more money, just trying to give you useful advice.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. This is useful.
I don't think I can stretch to the 3 light set up. At least not yet! Also, the space I have is only 8 feet wide so I'm not sure there would be enough room for a flash head either side of the 6 foot hilite.

Thanks again
Daniel
 
Look at my signature :)
I'm selling a 3 head studio head kit. Perfect for portrait work and the likes, allowing you to either have;
1 B/G Light + Fill Light + Key Light
2 B/G Light + Key Light

Check out the thread :)
 
ed_o_brain said:
Thanks for this. This is useful.
I don't think I can stretch to the 3 light set up. At least not yet! Also, the space I have is only 8 feet wide so I'm not sure there would be enough room for a flash head either side of the 6 foot hilite.

Thanks again
Daniel
Click to expand...

I can't help you with the budget:'( but space should be just about OK, the heads (or at least most of them) actually fit inside the Hi-Lite so you only need enough space for the stands, and if push comes to shove there's no need to fully extend the legs in that situation
 
Garry Edwards said:
I can't help you with the budget:'( but space should be just about OK, the heads (or at least most of them) actually fit inside the Hi-Lite so you only need enough space for the stands, and if push comes to shove there's no need to fully extend the legs in that situation
Click to expand...

I agree with the above, if there's space for the Hi-Lite to fit in there, you will only need a TINY but more space just to pop the flashes at the side/ inside of the HiLite.
 
ed_o_brain said:
Thanks for this. This is useful.
I don't think I can stretch to the 3 light set up. At least not yet! Also, the space I have is only 8 feet wide so I'm not sure there would be enough room for a flash head either side of the 6 foot hilite.

Thanks again
Daniel
Click to expand...
BTW, do you have a hotshoe flash that you can use as a second light for the background?
 
Get the train from Tony Beal and you wil save money. They sell vinyl for lorries. I got 3m x 2.5m of white vinyl for about £25 plus delivery.

You may want to have a look at the reflective flooring thread that EdinburghGary and I and others have been involved with.

Good luck and have fun !
 
You really need two heads on the background. You will have enough trouble getting the train white without any extra bother from the background. See all the other threads about that on here and get in some practise mopping up the grey bits in post processing.

Using a hot-shoe gun as a third light is workable, but it needs to be on low power or the recyling will be far too long.
 
Or buy my studio kit :P
 
ed_o_brain said:
Thanks Andy. Why the dislike of the SmartFlash?

I'd be quite well stretched buying this lot to be honest!
Click to expand...

Each to there own. I just don't like the design of it, looks awful in my book. :)
 
 
Thanks Andy.

I like the look of the Bowens stuff and see that it's highly recommended, however it's more than I can afford right now. If I'm successful at this, I will be looking at pro flash heads in due course.

I have ordered the Lastolite HiLite and a three-head Lencarta Smart Flash kit. Hopefully I'll be set to get shots done next weekend and then in-turn produce some promotional materials.
 
Hope you don't mind me posting in the thread, just wondering what the Stable Imaging lights are actually like? I'm in a similar boat and not sure between the Lencarta or the Stable Imaging ones - money saved if opted for the Stable Imaging would go to something else :)
 
ed_o_brain said:
Thanks Andy.

I like the look of the Bowens stuff and see that it's highly recommended, however it's more than I can afford right now. If I'm successful at this, I will be looking at pro flash heads in due course.

I have ordered the Lastolite HiLite and a three-head Lencarta Smart Flash kit. Hopefully I'll be set to get shots done next weekend and then in-turn produce some promotional materials.
Click to expand...

Let me know when you the smart flashes, see what you think and maybe show us some test shots.
 
Syk3 said:
Hope you don't mind me posting in the thread, just wondering what the Stable Imaging lights are actually like? I'm in a similar boat and not sure between the Lencarta or the Stable Imaging ones - money saved if opted for the Stable Imaging would go to something else :)
Click to expand...

Stable is good for personal use and the odd job but not for pro use. I have used them for a black tie event and got on fine. There isn't any/many add ons that fit it so what you get is what your stuck with. Its a good kit but has it limits like the low power.
 
Andy said:
Stable is good for personal use and the odd job but not for pro use. I have used them for a black tie event and got on fine. There isn't any/many add ons that fit it so what you get is what your stuck with. Its a good kit but has it limits like the low power.
Click to expand...

It would most likely just be used for shots of Friends/their children really, along with the HiLite background. I can possibly afford the SmartFlash, but then again it's still just two lights. I do have some old studio lights, but they are constant, rather than flashes. I take it some of the sets available on eBay for example these aren't worth going for?
 
Syk3 said:
It would most likely just be used for shots of Friends/their children really, along with the HiLite background. I can possibly afford the SmartFlash, but then again it's still just two lights. I do have some old studio lights, but they are constant, rather than flashes. I take it some of the sets available on eBay for example these aren't worth going for?
Click to expand...

Not for £300, unbranded and cheaply made. Would rather buy stables lights or put more money on and get a better model.
 
I use the Lencarta Smart Flash set in my studio and I can't fault them. My partner in the studio has some Elinchroms and I prefer the Lencartas over them. Looking to upgrade from the Smart Flashes in about a year but won't be selling them.
 
ed_o_brain said:
Thanks Andy.

I like the look of the Bowens stuff and see that it's highly recommended, however it's more than I can afford right now. If I'm successful at this, I will be looking at pro flash heads in due course.

I have ordered the Lastolite HiLite and a three-head Lencarta Smart Flash kit. Hopefully I'll be set to get shots done next weekend and then in-turn produce some promotional materials.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you ordered the Lencarta SmartFlash when you did, I won't be surprised if the rest of the stock is gone in a day or maybe 2...
And I doubt whether you'll want to upgrade in the future. In some cases, paying twice as much can buy you less.
 
Personally, I think 300 squids for 2 flashes that are only 200w/s is rather poor value, no matter what the make. I would soon find 200watt/secs limiting.

For example, you could have bought the Calumet Genesis set linked to above (inc excellent stands etc) for £100 more and have two guns that are twice as powerful as the Lencarta set, and which have an excellent reputation.

You can always turn a more powerful flash down, you cant turn a less powerful flash up. More power would be useful for filling the hilite too. Tip for the highlight - if you have two flashguns dedicated for it, dont use them both at the same level, have one higher and one lower than the other.

If you want to stay with lencarta and upgrade in the future to more powerful units (which I soon would), then you will have to buy the Elitepro flash range, and even then the more powerful 600 watt/secs ones because the cheaper ones still wont be as powerful (only 300watt/secs) as those Calumet Genesis's (geneii?) 400watt/secs. £250 quid for a 600watt/secs gun is very good value however.

Of course, your mileage may vary. Good luck with your new set. #

Long ago I went with the Elinchrom (admittedly very much more expensive than the lencarta and your budget), and have never regretted it. Remote control of power is so important to me, and cant be offered for lencarta with their analogue dials. Would you buy a telly without a remote control?
 
I understand what Kris is saying but I have another view...

1. Firstly, I think it's fair to say that most people are shooting on digital now, and that most of the people who are shooting on digital would have shot on 35mm (not medium format) if they didn't have digital. The image quality from modern DSLR's is much better at 200 ISO than from 35mm film @ 100 ISO, so although more power can be very important at low ISO setting the whole issue of power (for indoor use) is far less important than it was when everyone was shooting on film, and less important now than it was just a year or so ago, because of the improvements to camera noise at say 200 and 400 ISO.
2. The number of watt seconds stored in the capacitors is just that - the number of watt seconds stored in the capacitors. It isn't a good indication of the real power produced. In a recent photography magaine review, the Lencarta SmartFlash 200 produced exactly the same guide number as another head of 250 Ws, another head of 200 Ws and another head that was only 150 Ws, it produced far more power than another head of 200Ws - it's all down to efficiency and to the reflector fitted.
3. The people who buy entry level flash kits generally only want to use them for portraits and similar, and a lot of power simply isn't needed for this type of use anyway.
4. The people who have been on the two Lencarta lighting worshops held at my studio so far can tell you that, for the vast majority of the shots, we used the SmartFlash 200 at well under full power - and that was in a studio far larger than the average home. There were a couple of exceptions to this, where I wanted to demonstrate a particular effect - for example I used a focussing spotlight on the first workshop and this needed around 2000 Ws - in my experience, most people find that the SmartFlash does everything they need and when more power is needed, for use with a specialised light shaping tool, then a lot more power is needed.

This doesn't mean that more power is always a bad idea - the big advantage of having more power is quicker recycling, because an ElitePro 600 at 1/6th power will recycle much more quickly than a SmartFlash 200 at 1/2 power - but a recycling time of 1/2 second for the SmartFlash at half power is fast enough for most people.

5. The SmartFlash is not a cheap alternative to a 'good' flash. It's just a choice that people have. Lencarta has a policy of cutting down on the bells and whistles, not on the performance and build quality, on their entry level products. They have a trade customer who sells them on, in huge numbers, to event photographers who really work them hard. If they wer a cheap alternative they wouldn't sell to professionals who have to rely on their equipment, and they wouldn't outsell all the other makes combined sold by this customer.

Anyway, he's bought them now and as both of us have our own, very different views I think he's the best person to decide whether his choice is a good one - so a review would be nice:)
 
Kris said:
Personally, I think 300 squids for 2 flashes that are only 200w/s is rather poor value, no matter what the make. I would soon find 200watt/secs limiting.

For example, you could have bought the Calumet Genesis set linked to above (inc excellent stands etc) for £100 more and have two guns that are twice as powerful as the Lencarta set, and which have an excellent reputation.

You can always turn a more powerful flash down, you cant turn a less powerful flash up. More power would be useful for filling the hilite too. Tip for the highlight - if you have two flashguns dedicated for it, dont use them both at the same level, have one higher and one lower than the other.

If you want to stay with lencarta and upgrade in the future to more powerful units (which I soon would), then you will have to buy the Elitepro flash range, and even then the more powerful 600 watt/secs ones because the cheaper ones still wont be as powerful (only 300watt/secs) as those Calumet Genesis's (geneii?) 400watt/secs. £250 quid for a 600watt/secs gun is very good value however.

Of course, your mileage may vary. Good luck with your new set. #

Long ago I went with the Elinchrom (admittedly very much more expensive than the lencarta and your budget), and have never regretted it. Remote control of power is so important to me, and cant be offered for lencarta with their analogue dials. Would you buy a telly without a remote control?
Click to expand...

Edit: crossed post with Garry - the phone rang :D

I disagree Kris. For what the OP is trying to do 200ws is enough. The Lastolite Hilight is very efficient - I can blitz that with two 580EX hot-shoe guns on quarter power.

I use Elinchrom D-Lite 2 with 200ws and they are usually turned down towards the lower end for portraits. I like to shoot around f/5.6-8 and can get that easily with a 70cm double-diffuser softbox, even at base ISO. If I want more effective light, I am very happy to run up to 800ISO without a second thought (Canon 5D2) and any modern DSLR is excellent at ISO400 at least.

Years ago I used Bowens monolights with a nominal 750ws and was often short of power. But that was with 50-100ISO film. At 100ISO, the 200ws from the D-Lites is the same exposure as 1600ws at ISO800.

How much light do you need? Basic portraits just don't need much these days.
 
1, I just dont understand this. Power is power, and more is always better if you can turn it down (see point above) and stress it less. You put a 200watt/secs key light a through a two stop softbox and require f8 and corresponding fill/kickers etc. Then tell me that power is not important. Plus filling the hilite one to two stops above key is much easier with more power. 200 watt/secs is not enough for me. Digital high ISOs are very good, but they are very good on my more powerful guns as well. More power, more options, and the calumet would give you more options than the lencarta.

2 Watt/sec is the best indication we have and is the only cross brand ratio. I believe it, certainly far more than guide numbers.

3. Disagree. The ability to control key/fill ratios is much easier with more power on the key, and then especially to hold aperture. You obviously disagree.

4 Maybe, but it is much easier, and I would much prefer, to try and hold f5.6 for family groups with a more powerful flash. I want every drop of power available to me. 2 200w/s may be okay with an immediately purchased 600w/s ElitePro, on their own I would find very limiting.
 
Kris said:
1,

2 Watt/sec is the best indication we have and is the only cross brand ratio. I believe it, certainly far more than guide numbers.

QUOTE]

Kris,
I think we have to agree to disagree on most of your points. You have your views, I have mine and we're both entitled to them.

But I don't see any logic in your statement that W/s is the best indication we have. It is, as I've already said, nothing more than a statement of the amount of stored energy and it doesn't relate, in linear terms, to the flash energy actually delivered.
Saying that brand A at 400 Ws will produce twice as much energy as brand B because it only has 200 Ws makes about as much sense as saying that a 2000cc BMW must go twice as fast as a 1000cc Ford - if it does, then the size of the engine is only one, fairly unimportant factor. I once had a Strobex generator flash that produced 2400 Ws but which produced less actual energy than an Elinchrom 500...

Guide numbers are all that we have, and provided that the tests are carried out properly they are a very good indication of real, usable power and, as I've proved myself, a whole raft of different makes/models can be tested at the same time, in the same place and under the same conditions to get accurate, useful data - all that needs to be done, if a make with a non-standard accessory fitting is included that prevents the same standard reflector to be used for each test, is to remove the reflectors altogether.
Click to expand...
 
We are, indeed, all entitled to our opinions.

Take your argument up with the rest of the flashgun manufacturing world. I could argue a few of your points, but I dont think it will alter anybodies opinions. And I have a nappy to change.

:)

Edit - not my own, I hasten to add!
 
Garry Edwards said:
Kris said:
1,

2 Watt/sec is the best indication we have and is the only cross brand ratio. I believe it, certainly far more than guide numbers.

QUOTE]

Kris,
I think we have to agree to disagree on most of your points. You have your views, I have mine and we're both entitled to them.

But I don't see any logic in your statement that W/s is the best indication we have. It is, as I've already said, nothing more than a statement of the amount of stored energy and it doesn't relate, in linear terms, to the flash energy actually delivered.
Saying that brand A at 400 Ws will produce twice as much energy as brand B because it only has 200 Ws makes about as much sense as saying that a 2000cc BMW must go twice as fast as a 1000cc Ford - if it does, then the size of the engine is only one, fairly unimportant factor. I once had a Strobex generator flash that produced 2400 Ws but which produced less actual energy than an Elinchrom 500...

Guide numbers are all that we have, and provided that the tests are carried out properly they are a very good indication of real, usable power and, as I've proved myself, a whole raft of different makes/models can be tested at the same time, in the same place and under the same conditions to get accurate, useful data - all that needs to be done, if a make with a non-standard accessory fitting is included that prevents the same standard reflector to be used for each test, is to remove the reflectors altogether.
Click to expand...

I don't think that guide numbers are very much help at all for comparing studio flashes. They aren't so bad with hot-shoe guns as at least they quote the angle of coverage.

The problem is that guide number tests are not carried out to any agreed or consistent standard. As far as studio flash is concerned, the guide number varies massively according to the reflector used, and ditto for the room in which the measurements are taken.

If you fit a small, directional reflector and test it in a small studio, eg typical home studio, you will get a reading that is several stops different to, say, a softbox or brolly in a large room. Guide numbers are great for comparing kit from the same manufacturer, or at least they should be, but between brands there is a lot of variation. If you want to quote a high guide number from a feeble flash, it's very easy to do.

Despite the shortcomings of watt-seconds/joules, which are very far from perfect, they are the best comparitive measure we've got. It's what we all use anyway :shrug:
Click to expand...
 
Richard,
I agree that unscrupulous sellers can exaggerate guide numbers, just as they can exaggerate other things (and sometimes dream up figures such as colour temperature consistency) I did say that Guide numbers are all that we have, and provided that the tests are carried out properly they are a very good indication of real, usable power and I believe that that's true.

Some years ago, Elinchrom made a bit of a departure from the norm by measuring at a distance of just 1 metre. I saw the sense of that, because it produces figures that aren't affected too much by environmental factors so I started using the same protocol, although I still test light shapers at both 1 and 3 metres because the behaviour is often very different at these two distances.

And it's standard to use a standard reflector for the tests, although I accept that not all standard reflectors are the same (the Bowens ones for example are highly polished so produce high readings) but, as I said, an objective test can still be carried out by using the same reflector for all flash heads, or if they are not interchangeable, by removing the reflectors altogether, which will produce a true brand-by-brand comparison.

Relying on joules as a measure of comparative output is deeply flawed for the reasons I've already given - that's where Novatron and Alien Beens got their laughable "effective watt seconds" from - stating, for example, that a 130 Ws mono flash head had effectively the same 400 watt seconds as a generator flash made by a competitor.

And I can't agree with you that hotshoe flashe guide numbers are inherently more accurate than studio flash - I do see where you're coming from on this (they have fixed reflectors so we know which reflector was used for the tests) but they do tend to measure them at the maximum zoom setting, which can give a very misleading power indication - want a more powerful flash than the SB-800? Easy, let's make it a bit less powerful but give it a longer zoom, call it a SB-900, put the price up and people will buy it...

No, guide numbers on studio flashes are honest and accurate, as long as the person conducting the tests is also honest and accurate.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Richard,
I agree that unscrupulous sellers can exaggerate guide numbers, just as they can exaggerate other things (and sometimes dream up figures such as colour temperature consistency) I did say that Guide numbers are all that we have, and provided that the tests are carried out properly they are a very good indication of real, usable power and I believe that that's true.

Some years ago, Elinchrom made a bit of a departure from the norm by measuring at a distance of just 1 metre. I saw the sense of that, because it produces figures that aren't affected too much by environmental factors so I started using the same protocol, although I still test light shapers at both 1 and 3 metres because the behaviour is often very different at these two distances.

And it's standard to use a standard reflector for the tests, although I accept that not all standard reflectors are the same (the Bowens ones for example are highly polished so produce high readings) but, as I said, an objective test can still be carried out by using the same reflector for all flash heads, or if they are not interchangeable, by removing the reflectors altogether, which will produce a true brand-by-brand comparison.

Relying on joules as a measure of comparative output is deeply flawed for the reasons I've already given - that's where Novatron and Alien Beens got their laughable "effective watt seconds" from - stating, for example, that a 130 Ws mono flash head had effectively the same 400 watt seconds as a generator flash made by a competitor.

And I can't agree with you that hotshoe flashe guide numbers are inherently more accurate than studio flash - I do see where you're coming from on this (they have fixed reflectors so we know which reflector was used for the tests) but they do tend to measure them at the maximum zoom setting, which can give a very misleading power indication - want a more powerful flash than the SB-800? Easy, let's make it a bit less powerful but give it a longer zoom, call it a SB-900, put the price up and people will buy it...

No, guide numbers on studio flashes are honest and accurate, as long as the person conducting the tests is also honest and accurate.
Click to expand...

Garry, that's simply not true! I understand your reasoning and IF there was an accurate and consistent agreed standard for guide number testing, we would have absolutely comparable figures.

But there is no stardard and we have no idea how a Lencarta guide number compares to a Bowens or an Elinchrom. Even when you dig into the specs and do a lot of sums, you're still left with a load of unknown variables. You have said yourself that Bowens reflectors tend to inflate figures, amongst several other differences.

Sure, I think we can compare Lencarta with Lencarta and Elinchrom with Elinchrom and so on, but not between brands. And that's what we really want to know. Even when a similar size reflector is used, that's no guarantee - it's angle of coverage that makes the difference, not necessarily the diameter of the dish. Deeper dishes narrow the beam for example, inflating the reading.

I think that, in practise, when it comes to the amount of light you get, there is less variation between, say, a group of 400ws seconds heads than there is between another group that all claim to have a guide number of 125.

And BTW, Lencarta don't quote guide numbers in their headline spec and the SmartFlash is not billed as a GN100. When you find the guide number, it appears to be measured at 10 feet. Maybe that's scaled down from tests made at 1m as you say (good idea) but it's all very unclear.
 
I agree with Garry that 200Ws go a long way nowadays. In the "good old days" of medium format cameras at ISO50 film where you had to stop down sometimes to F32 to obtain the desired dept of field, 200Ws were nothing and flash heads well above 1000Ws were common.

Today, especially when shooting a crop camera, some of them even have a base ISO of 200, 200Ws or even less works fine in many portrait and comparable small set-ups.

My small and easy to carry around Jinbei DM heads are even "weaker" with their 150Ws

http://www.flickr.com/photos/laternamagica/4567087901/

With any kind of medium size light former (like m 95cm Octo-Box), I shoot F8 at ISO100 and 1/1 Power. Since I very often don't even need (or want the) F8 and ISO 200 is a no brainer regarding the picture quality, even small flashes can be used in a wide range of situations with a lot of flexibility and without sacrifice.

Much more important than power in my vew is reliability, consistency and the option to use a wide range of light formers, depending on the adapter the flashhead offers (I never would buy one without, respectively the so called "universal adapter").
 
Dave Pickett said:
Do you know this Jinbei

http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=17291

reminds me of another popular flash unit, anyone care to take a guess, I cant quite seem to place it, Garry might have an idea..........
Click to expand...

Snide comments aside, it isn't even similar to the Lencarta SmartFlash, except for the casing, control panel and rear PCB, which are supplied by Jinbei. The Jinbei one doesn't even have the same output. The Lencarta one has much faster recycling and produces more power from a nominally lower storage capacity.
Edit: Oh yes, and the SmartFlash has a much shorter flash duration.

Must because the SmartFlash is totally different inside:)

You won't find Lencarta selling any ordinary Jinbei flash heads and you won't find Jinbei or anyone else selling any Lencarta flash heads.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Snide comments aside, it isn't even similar to the Lencarta SmartFlash, except for the casing, control panel and rear PCB, which are supplied by Jinbei. The Jinbei one doesn't even have the same output. The Lencarta one has much faster recycling and produces more power from a nominally lower storage capacity.
Edit: Oh yes, and the SmartFlash has a much shorter flash duration.

Must because the SmartFlash is totally different inside:)

You won't find Lencarta selling any ordinary Jinbei flash heads and you won't find Jinbei or anyone else selling any Lencarta flash heads.
Click to expand...

Not meaning to be snide at all, but out of genuine interest, what exactly is Lencarta's input into the production of the SmartFlash?

Who designed it?
Who manufactures it?
Who assembles it?

Not that I think it necessarily makes any difference to the final product, apart from probably making it good value, I'm just nosey :)
 
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