Lastolite hilite and nifty fifty

The23rdman

The23rdman

Suspended / Banned
Messages
13,582
Name
Dean
Edit My Images
No
I've been burying my head in the sand re a background option, but realise I'll probably get some mileage out of the hilite solution. Before pulling the trigger I'm wondering how it works with the canon nifty fifty as I know this lens isn't massively flare resistant.
 
Not sure but I could check it out for you. I use my Tokina lens and whilst it's a cracking lens it does suffer from fringing but I don't notice any with the Hilite so perhaps flare isn't all that much to worry about either.

I always take my filters off when doing studio work as I feel that I'm wasting all the nice coatings on the lens with a filter stuck on the end. The hood protects it anyway. :)
 
I'd appreciate it, Graham. It's a big investment if it wont work with my favourite portrait lens.
 
np. I really can't see it being a problem to be honest.
 
Nifty-50 is more prone to flare than most, it's a fact, and pointing it at a big bright white space is asking for trouble.

However, let's be realistic about it, it's still a decent lens if you stop it down a bit. What I would do (in fact what I actually always do when I can) is fit a deep lens hood and - this is the important bit - cut a rectangle of black card that fits the frame exactly right to the very edges. Stick it on with Blu-Tack. That cuts out everything outside the actual image area and with that lens in particular will make a dramatic improvement.
 
Richard, if you've done this do you happen to know the dimensions required?
 
Sorry, I'm not going to get a chance to try it out today as I'm tied up later (not literally) but I'm getting the kit out tomorrow so if nobody else gets a chance I'll test it then.

Good suggestion from Richard. Also, if you have some lights and a softbox then you could do a test yourself as the hilite is effectively just a big softbox! lol
 
The23rdman said:
Richard, if you've done this do you happen to know the dimensions required?
Click to expand...

It was ages ago that I did it with a nifty-50. Cut a smaller rectangle and stick it on, then keep making it bigger until it's just right. Trial and error. It's easier on live view to see exactly what's going on (shows the full image area) and check it at different focusing distances and f/numbers - the edges will be most sharply defined at high f/numbers due to increased depth of field, and closest focusing distance. Look in the corners where it will intrude first and most.

I actually cut mine fractionally too tight, so that the card does intrude into the corners of the frame very slightly, so I know it's as effectively as it can be. With a white background, you can clone that out in post processing.
 
gman said:
Sorry, I'm not going to get a chance to try it out today as I'm tied up later (not literally) but I'm getting the kit out tomorrow so if nobody else gets a chance I'll test it then.

Good suggestion from Richard. Also, if you have some lights and a softbox then you could do a test yourself as the hilite is effectively just a big softbox! lol
Click to expand...

In your own time, mate. It's much appreciated.

HoppyUK said:
It was ages ago that I did it with a nifty-50. Cut a smaller rectangle and stick it on, then keep making it bigger until it's just right. Trial and error. It's easier on live view to see exactly what's going on (shows the full image area) and check it at different focusing distances and f/numbers - the edges will be most sharply defined at high f/numbers due to increased depth of field, and closest focusing distance. Look in the corners where it will intrude first and most.

I actually cut mine fractionally too tight, so that the card does intrude into the corners of the frame very slightly, so I know it's as effectively as it can be. With a white background, you can clone that out in post processing.
Click to expand...

No live view on ye olde 1DsII. :)

I guess the first step is picking up a lens hood. Thanks, mate. :D
 
Okay, looking at lens hoods the only solid ones are those horrible rubber retractable ones or a telephoto long one. Isn't that going to cause vignetting?
 
Any old hood will do for this, though you may be surprised at how deep it can be before it actually vignettes, bearing in mind though that the nifty's front element is already quite recessed. For example, I use the hood from a 100-400L which is nearly four inches long on my 24-105L and it's completely clear by about 80mm even on full frame.

If you want to get serious about it, try this bellows lens hood http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photographic/square-filters/p-type/ptype-bellows-hood-p-1259.html It's the same as a Lee hood but I know they've been out of stock for a while.
 
Thanks Richard. I'll buy a cheapo one from ebay. ;)
 
The23rdman said:
Wasted an hour with one of those before. ;)
Click to expand...

Only an hour! :eek:

True, they're not a great idea and only work in theory. It would take a heck of a lot of time to make one of those that fitted the image frame exactly.

The other problem, and this potentially applies to most regular lens hoods, is that it's very hard to get the inside surface absolutely dark black. Canon does it pretty well with velvet flocking, which is good, but if the inside surafce has any reflective characteristics at all then there is a danger that what it will do is simply collect more light and redirect it straight into the lens! There were some flarey images posted on here, some time ago now, which were puzzling because the supplied lens hood had been used. Turned out it was just plain black plastic inside, a bit shiny, and was actually making things worse.

That is why some of the best lens hoods have a ribbed inside surface which traps most of the light errant light, which is also the double benefit of using a bellows hood. You'll see them used all the time on TV and movie cameras - huge great things sometimes. But what is good about a black card rectangle in front of the lens, apart from being exactly custom sized, is that everything behind the card is in complete shade. Make sure the edges of the rectangle are matt black ;)

PS If you get around to doing this, please post a couple of with/without images on a nifty-50. While I always do it with my own lenses for this kind of studio stuff, in all honesty my main 24-105L lens is just astonishingly resistant to flare and the difference is not massive.
 
HoppyUK said:
Only an hour! :eek:

True, they're not a great idea and only work in theory. It would take a heck of a lot of time to make one of those that fitted the image frame exactly.

The other problem, and this potentially applies to most regular lens hoods, is that it's very hard to get the inside surface absolutely dark black. Canon does it pretty well with velvet flocking, which is good, but if the inside surafce has any reflective characteristics at all then there is a danger that what it will do is simply collect more light and redirect it straight into the lens! There were some flarey images posted on here, some time ago now, which were puzzling because the supplied lens hood had been used. Turned out it was just plain black plastic inside, a bit shiny, and was actually making things worse.

That is why some of the best lens hoods have a ribbed inside surface which traps most of the light errant light, which is also the double benefit of using a bellows hood. You'll see them used all the time on TV and movie cameras - huge great things sometimes. But what is good about a black card rectangle in front of the lens, apart from being exactly custom sized, is that everything behind the card is in complete shade. Make sure the edges of the rectangle are matt black ;)

PS If you get around to doing this, please post a couple of with/without images on a nifty-50. While I always do it with my own lenses for this kind of studio stuff, in all honesty my main 24-105L lens is just astonishingly resistant to flare and the difference is not massive.
Click to expand...

I shall certainly give it a go and post results. I am considering a 24-105L as my next lens, but I'm still not sure which way I'm going with my family photography. It's a straight fight between lit shooting and natural light with wide open primes. of course, they both require different kit and money has to be divvied out accordingly.
 
Here you go. I took a shot from both lenses at the same focal length. :) (Tokina one is 1st, Canon is below - just realised the text isn't so clear when out of PS).

Tokina%2028-80mm.jpg


Canon%2050mm.jpg
 
Doesn't look like there's a fat lot in it, does it? How many stops above key is the hilite?

p.s. I ordered one anyway. :)
 
I couldn't see any flare whatsoever so I'm sure it'll be fine. The hilite was just less than one stop above the key :)
 
That's great, Graham, thank you.
 
Looks fine to me too :) LOL That's f/10 - might be different at low f/numbers, but that's prolly not an issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top