Landscape Techniques

boccers_2000

boccers_2000

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Andrew
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Hi Guys.

I love landscape photographs, especially those where the things in the foreground are in superb focus (as is the entire scene as it dissapears into the horizon).

For someone wanting to take pictures like that I would have though a high f number is a must (f/16, f/22) but does anyone have any thoughts on that? I know many lenses have a "sweet spot" when it comes to aperture and by increasing the f number it may cause other problems.

Obviously perspective will likely play a big role (ie maybe the camera being on the grounds to capture those items in the foreground like old leaves and focus them) but any thoughts on how to capture the whole scene in dramatic focus?

I'll be working with a Canon 500D and a 10-22mm lens.

All thought/help appreciated.

Cheers
 
boccers_2000 said:
Hi Guys.

I love landscape photographs, especially those where the things in the foreground are in superb focus (as is the entire scene as it dissapears into the horizon).

For someone wanting to take pictures like that I would have though a high f number is a must (f/16, f/22) but does anyone have any thoughts on that? I know many lenses have a "sweet spot" when it comes to aperture and by increasing the f number it may cause other problems.

Obviously perspective will likely play a big role (ie maybe the camera being on the grounds to capture those items in the foreground like old leaves and focus them) but any thoughts on how to capture the whole scene in dramatic focus?

I'll be working with a Canon 500D and a 10-22mm lens.
Click to expand...

On a 10-20 lens there's practically no reason to be going above f/11 once you investigate the depth of field of ultrawide angle lenses. Look up the DoF Table and the hyperfocal distances.

Going to f/16 or 22 is just compromising image quality for no benefit - see the other half-dozen or so currently active threads on depth of field, diffraction, etc.
 
Thanks Guys. That all makes perfect sense no so thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.

When you work with a wide angle lens and find the perfect aperture for the lens and picture (so it's all in focus) do you need to do any tweeking to get the images in the foreground to look big?

I know that maybe doesn't make sense so i'll try and explain.

If I place my camera on the ground and there are leaves say just in front of the lens, then in some pictures they can look unnaturally large (I know they should look larger anyway as they are closer). I like the effect and wondered if that just happened or required tweeking.

Cheers

Cheers
 
With ultra wide angle lenses there will always be the perceived distortion between close objects and those further away, in the same way as a telephoto will compress objects, to get a natural balance of scale you need a 'normal' focal length like 50-80mm
 
it just happens yes
 
I suppose it would be possible to enlarge foreground objects in pp but its more than likely just due to perspective as in "no Dougal, these cows are small but those are far away".

Andy
 
Thanks Guys. Well at least it just happens!! Having thrown myself in at the deep end a couple of months ago and realising what a steep learning curve it is (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance etc etc) at least that is one less thing to worry about!!
 
I think that for the effect you are after, you need a super-wide lens - 10-20mm sort of range.

Sure, the exagerated perspective effect 'just happens' but it only works with a super-wide. This allows you to get close to the subject, but still retain a wide field of view and 'get everything in' as if you were standing further away. That's when it just happens.

You then need to maximise depth of field, using hyperfocal distance technique as mentioned above. And don't go higher than f/16 max (you probably won't need to) because that's when the problem you were alluding to earlier, diffraction, kicks in and really hits fine detail sharpness.
 
The best way to get maximum depth of field is to use a tilt-shift lens. You can then tilt the plane of focus so that it is (nearly) horizontal, and the ground will be in focus all the way from you to the horizon. And you don't need to shoot at small apertures so you don't need to worry about diffraction.
 
But you do need to worry about your pocket :)
 
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