Landscape photography techniques

Bill19

Suspended / Banned
Messages
1,044
Name
Billy
Edit My Images
Yes
Hi guys
I am doing my GCSE art exam and I am doing photography, I want to do a write up of what landscape photography techniques there are and about them, so far I have got High dynamic range (HDR) imaging and panoramas, is there any other techniques regularly used in landscape photography, even if they are not technical techniques and more about how to do a 'good' landscape photo, composition etc wise
An answer tonight would be great :D
thanks guys :)
Bill
 
Rule of thirds

Filters, such as ND

Long Exposure, (silky water)

Using film

Wide angle or Telephoto
 
Cheers Liam, I reckon i will do a section on the effects of shutter aperture and ISO (although not really confined to landscapes), forgot about filters will have to do a bit of reading up and write up about that, and film, thanks :)
 
Yep, all that.

Small aperture, focus around 1/3 of the way into the scene. edit; look up hyperfocal distance too
 
No worries, there is loads to write about as I am sure other members will add to the list....

:thumbs:
 
I'm guessing that you've included a little bit on Ansel Adams in there? Best of luck
 
I have herd about Hansel Adams, and i was going to do a analysis of one or more of his pics but decided to go for something for reasonable to what I have to do, as for the exam I have 10 hours to do something, and taking landscape pic and processing doesn't really fill that, so i did a write up on Carl Warner and hopefully will be doing a 'foodscape' although I won't be able to include many of these sort of techniques, but at this stage in the prep work i am not supposed to let on i know exactly what i am doing, and basically the more i waffle on about techniques and things the high mark i should get in the end :)
Although if i have some spare time i may do a small bit on him since he seems to be pretty big in the landscape world, Carl Warner mentioned him as one of his inspirations.
thanks
 
Leading lines and time of day to shot (golden hour etc) are a couple more :thumbs:
 
Have a look in the landscapes section at threads with a lot of replies praising the picture. Don't just think isn't that pretty.... look at how things are arranged... where the horizon is...angles of fences.... where the subject is positioned... use of light...it goes on :) Try looking at the shop bought pictures (paintings or whatever) your mum has hanging on the wall - you'll see the same arrangements (composition) in those.

Once you start seeing the things that make a good picture you will not only have things to write about you will know a bit more about how to take one yourself.
 
Not sure if any of the following will help - I wrote it for something else but some of it may be of worth......

Use a Tripod
As for all landscape shots it's best to use a tripod. You can't get away from this because there's no way you'll acquire really sharp images by holding that camera in your hands. Why? because the average landscape exposure time is around half a second or thereabouts due to the use of graduated and/or neutral density filters. And on top of this it's a good idea to use mirror lock and a remote release cable. If you don't have a remote release cable you can always select a timer delay from the camera's menu.

Try Using a Shutter Release
Another almost essential part of your landscape photography kit is a Shutter Release Cable. Try to use one of these so you don’t wobble your camera when taking a picture, or when timing is critical. If you can’t afford a cable, or just don’t want/need one, then try using the 10sec timer of your camera instead.

Use a Graduated Filter
As a landscape photographer you should use a graduated filter when there's a bright sky's present in the shot. This will allow for a balanced exposure in-camera and save you time messing about in Photoshop afterwards trying to retain sky detail. The downside of is an increased exposure time, hence the half a second reference previously, and why a tripod is essential if you want to acquire really sharp images.

Use a low ISO value
To keep sensor noise to a minimum use you lowest ISO, and certainly no more than ISO 100. If the light's low... slow things down and use that tripod !!!!!!!!!

Use Spot Metering
Spot metering works a treat with landscapes. What you do is spot meter off a bright part of the scene, check the histogram and adjust settings manually to get a better tonal range. If your camera doesn't have spot metering, use center-weighted metering, which works pretty well.

Maximize the Depth of Field
To acquire maximum depth of field use a small aperture (high f-number). This will increase exposure time, but you won't care about that because you're using a tripod anyway. You then autofocus one-third of the way into the frame then switch to manual focus. You do this to prevent the autofocus from hunting, especially because of the low light level entering the camera.

The time of day
The beauty of landscape photography is in its variety - even one viewpoint can provide infinite possibilities, depending on the weather, time of day, and season. As a general rule early moring and evening are the best times. Then, a wide variety of lighting conditions are available for one or two hours, giving warm colors and low-angled lighting that shows up textures and shadows.

Take your time
By studying the foreground detail available and any lead-in lines before you click away you'll get a more interesting composition and a better image. When you see what appears to be a good landscape to shoot, don't fire away until you've assessed the variation in the vicinity. Allow time to explore and place the tripod where you think you'll get a great shot. Then take time to move around, looking through your camera's viewfinder for that ideal position. Don't rush this bit. Seek that perfect site, and experiment with various focal lengths, heights and angles.

Foreground Interest
Try including an object in the foreground to add more appeal to your images. Sometimes we tend to focus too much on the main subject and forget about what’s in the foreground, but including an object like a rock or bush adds another point in the story of your photograph, and helps lead the viewers eyes through the frame. Foreground Interest also helps to achieve a more balanced composition by empathizing with the main subject

Lead in Lines
Coupled with Foreground Interest, Lead in Lines are great for capturing the way a viewer looks at your photograph. Try to compose your scene so that features like roads, railings, railway lines, streams, shorelines etc, run from or near your foreground interest towards your main focal point. This way it gives your image a sense of direction; the viewers eyes are directed where you want them, so the story of your scene can be conveyed more clearly.

The Rule of Thirds
Use the rule of thirds, so that your foreground interest and main subject fall on the intersections of the imaginary thirds lines. This helps achieve a balanced composition and makes your scene easier on the eye.

Stick to the Rules
Unless you’re supremely confident in your photography, then stick to the rules and guidelines. Breaking the rules can give some of the best results, but don’t just ignore them without knowing why you are doing so. Once you know the ropes and can understand why you would break a particular rule then the world is your oyster.

Enjoy !
 
A large part of excelent landscape technique is preparation - researching the location; identifying angle of sun; identifying best time of year for sun to light the scene (sun rises andsets at different locations acros year); planning for tides if it is a coastal shot; pre-visualising the shot; etc.... and do not forget luck

Inspirational landscapes images are fleeting, you have to be there, set up, ready, awake or you miss it.

You could well require 10 hours for one landscape shot.

Taking the potograph is the easy part, making the photograph is the hard part.
 
Yeh, it could take ten hours, but if I took the shot there at school... well the school field isn't very inspiring.. lol! i would bring in a photo, and would process it there, and I wouldn't want to spend ten hours processing! lol
Thanks, I will include about planning against nature tides sunrises etc
 
A large part of excelent landscape technique is preparation - researching the location; identifying angle of sun; identifying best time of year for sun to light the scene (sun rises andsets at different locations acros year); planning for tides if it is a coastal shot; pre-visualising the shot; etc.... and do not forget luck

Inspirational landscapes images are fleeting, you have to be there, set up, ready, awake or you miss it.

You could well require 10 hours for one landscape shot.

Taking the potograph is the easy part, making the photograph is the hard part.

:plusone:

I always put a lot of effort into researching an area (Where the sun will be etc) and quite often visit it first. Then keep an eye on the weather forecast.
 
thanks, i wish I was old enough to drive would make it a lot easier visiting places and takeing my time more! lol
just spent a couple of hours writing thing up and researching, and will probably do soem more later :) thanks guys
 
Whilst on the subject, does anybody use a solar compass ? Is there an iPhone App for one ?
 
I use one but only when I find a place I like while I'm out travelling that's new. I then take a look at the compass to work out where the sun would be rising and setting and use it to imagine the shot I would take. Then I make a note to revisit in the future (and I do).

Obviously for places you know well you tend to know where the sun rises and sets.

Don't know about one being available for the iPhone
 
composition is the main criteria and correct exposure
the 1/3 rule is ok but i tend to do a land shot or a sky shot with the horizon anywhere it looks good...except in the middle..:D

interest across the frame and from front to back is good...a full shot...with a good and wholesome sky if featured

landscapes can also show weather patterns to great effect ..storms etc

over saturation is not very nice...green is green but not too much
 
Back
Top