landscape photo not focused

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It looks like all the 'EXIF' information has been stripped from the file - do you know the aperture and shutter speed of the shot?
 
If i can remember that shutter speed was at 1/60 and the aperture was at 3.5
 
I'd go with f/8 and use a tripod if you want it nice and sharp.
 
ok il give it a go.how comes on the lens its say f 3.5 to 5.5 and in the setting i can go up to f22? Thanks for the quick replies. Very helpful
 
The apertures quoted on the lens are the maximum apertures the lens can open up to on either end of the zoom. The wide angle aperture is the larger one (smaller number to be confusing).

Setting the camera to f/8 will give a sharper picture on your lens than shooting wide open at f3.5. Also, more of the shot will be in focus as smaller apertures give greater depth of field.

If you stop the aperture right down to f/22 you'll get a less sharp picture as although the depth of field is great other optical issues come into play. (Diffraction)

Phil
 
i tried taking a photo at f8 and its was much much better and so i went ahead and took it to f10 and then compared far away little objects and the f10 photo showed more sharper and deatiled image. so next i will try is f12
 
It's tough to work out where to focus sometimes...

The amount of the picture that's in focus (depth of field) depends on three things.

1. Your Aperture
2. Your focal length
3. Whereabouts you are focussing

DofMaster can calculate this, but whilst you are unlikely to have a PC whilst you are out and about, you can either get an app for your smartphone, or just remember some simple rules.

1. The higher the aperture number (which actually means the smaller the aperture physically is) the more depth of field you have.
2. The wider your focal length is (the lower the number) the more depth of field you have.
3. The further away you focus, the less depth of field you have.

For example, at f11 & 18mm focal length I can focus at an object that's 5 metres away and everything from 1.16m to infinity will be sharp and in focus (huge depth of field).

That same subject at f11 & 55mm focal length will only have a depth of field from 3.7m to 7.7m. Everything closer or further away will be blurred. The more you zoom in, the less margin of error you have so you have to be sure to get that focus point close to your subject.

Hope this isn't too confusing!

Ian.
 
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In that shot it could be the camera was trying to focus on one of the pegs.
If you half press the shutter with it definitely locking onto a distant object like the roofline, then recompose without releasing the half press it should take it at near infinity which is what you want.
 
Where is the focus point of this pic? It's pretty obvious that dof is a big issue here, I would study up a bit on dof and also use a manual focus when shooting landscapes. That way you will always have what you want to have in focus. Good luck
 
I think that in this situation, Manual-Focus is your best friend.
Hyperfocasing, to gain best effect of a tighter aperture.
Unfortunately a 'Depth-of-Field' preview, seems to be a feature cameras have lost in recent years.... along with Hyper-focal scale.
Maybe a case of focusing middle distance; say the corner of the first house, and then doing a few test shots focusing nearer, then further.
 
nickjohnwatson said:
F11 is sharpest tor landscapes on the kit lens on mine.....would go any smaller as it degrades after that
Click to expand...

Just wondering about the degrades comment. I have heard this more than once but find no evidence of it in my pictures. I take multiple shots at different fstops and go way past f11 with no degrading,. Is this something that is only with kit lenses?
 
shaylou said:
Just wondering about the degrades comment. I have heard this more than once but find no evidence of it in my pictures. I take multiple shots at different fstops and go way past f11 with no degrading,. Is this something that is only with kit lenses?
Click to expand...

I think it's more a general rule of thumb, most people say that lenses are sharpest around f11, but the only way to really know if to test your own lens for yourself
 
with a extreme long focus lens ( 500mm ) I found the shutter slap bounced the tripod and blurred image, I tried taking shots in "quiet" mode on the D7000 and this helped a lot.
 
shaylou said:
Just wondering about the degrades comment. I have heard this more than once but find no evidence of it in my pictures. I take multiple shots at different fstops and go way past f11 with no degrading,. Is this something that is only with kit lenses?
Click to expand...

The problem with higher f/numbers is diffraction, an optical chacteristic dependent on the relative size of the aperture and format (magnification). Compacts with small sensors suffer severely, which is why they often don't run higher than f/5.6.

With APS-C format, diffraction effects are usually visible above f/5.6 in the centre of the image, and around f/8 on full frame. The best lenses will peak at even lower f/numbers, but at a higher level of sharpness. With lower quality lenses, the edges will lag a little and not reach peak sharpness until a stop or two higher than the centre (and at a lower level) so it's quite true that sometimes optimum sharpness across the frame might be at higher f/numbers, trading a little central sharpness for a bigger gain in edge sharpness.

If you're not seeing this, you need to look more closely ;) Though it has to be said that you can still get very good image quality even when diffraction is taking its toll.

You really need to do controlled lab-style tests to see exactly what's happening, but look at any respectable lens review and you'll see what's going on. Have a look here http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/canon_50_1p8_ii_c16/4 and see when the centre peaks vs the edge, and also compare with APS-C on the previous page.
 
snipershooter said:
ok il give it a go.how comes on the lens its say f 3.5 to 5.5 and in the setting i can go up to f22? Thanks for the quick replies. Very helpful
Click to expand...

It's because your widest aperture is f3.5 when the zoom is set to 18mm and 5.6 when the zoom is set to 55mm. The narrowest varies, I think between f22 and f29 on that lens.

This is the norm on cheaper lenses, more expensive ones tend have a constant aperture.
 
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