Laminate flooring....

Bobsyeruncle

Bobsyeruncle

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Hi guys,

Got a week off to catch up on some jobs around the house, one being new laminate in the hall.
I've lifted the old stuff, removed the skirtings etc. anyone got any useful hints of tips? Do this, don't do that etc.
I need to get it done, or the other half will think all I've done all week is sit on this forum debating independence.:D
 
Don't forget to leave laminate packs to acclimatise - section 1, 3rd link above.
 
Only tip I have from experience, is double check the measurements, I had mine done (rather than diy) , can't remember now exactly what went wrong, but the packs of laminate were 1.6sq.metres, not the 2 sq. metres anticipated by the fella ordering. End result, lounge, office and 80% of hallway laminated luckily could order the missing stock , but then had to wait for it to acclimatise (see above).
An illustration of measure twice, cut once of sorts ☺

Edit: worked out what happened, measured in metric, then ordered imperial packs (thinking they were metric.)
 
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CheshireChap said:
Only tip I have from experience, is double check the measurements, I had mine done (rather than diy) , can't remember now exactly what went wrong, but the packs of laminate were 1.92sq.metres, not the 2 sq. metres anticipated by the fella ordering. End result, lounge, office and 80% of hallway laminated luckily could order the missing stock , but then had to wait for it to acclimatise (see above).
An illustration of measure twice, cut once of sorts ☺
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. I've got more than I need, so may have a pack to take back.
 
When acclimatising, make sure you open the packets. Might be obvious but did a floor for my parents and they'd left it in the room still completely wrapped in plastic.
 
johnnypanic said:
When acclimatising, make sure you open the packets. Might be obvious but did a floor for my parents and they'd left it in the room still completely wrapped in plastic.
Click to expand...
Thanks. It says on the packs to keep it sealed and only open immediately prior to fitting.
 
My only advice would be don't buy cheap.
 
If it's grain effect laminate and has a limited number of different "planks", see which ones match best end to end and side to side, then try to ensure that you don't end up with the same "plank" close together on the floor. When I did downstairs, I used the foil faced underlay to add some insulation - well worth the slight extra cost and the stuff I used was "jigsaw" edged so clipped together dead easily. A strip of tape over the joins and Robert's a parent's sibling. I started on the awkward side of the rooms and worked towards the easy edge so it was nice and easy once I was a bit bored of the job - had I gone the other way, I may have lost patience! I went down the cork edging route so I could push the furniture back flush against the skirting; if you use quadrant to finish it off, you end up with a stand off. Trimming the skirting is a royal PITA, even using an oscillating type saw thingy and an offcut as a gauge.

Oh, use knee pads and have some sheets of ply or similar to lay over the bare underlay rather than risk compacting it by walking on it unprotected.
 
Bobsyeruncle said:
Thanks. It says on the packs to keep it sealed and only open immediately prior to fitting.
Click to expand...

Strange, any I've put down (4 in total), all mentioned opening the packs. o_O Which would seem to make sense.
 
Nod said:
If it's grain effect laminate and has a limited number of different "planks", see which ones match best end to end and side to side, then try to ensure that you don't end up with the same "plank" close together on the floor. When I did downstairs, I used the foil faced underlay to add some insulation - well worth the slight extra cost and the stuff I used was "jigsaw" edged so clipped together dead easily. A strip of tape over the joins and Robert's a parent's sibling. I started on the awkward side of the rooms and worked towards the easy edge so it was nice and easy once I was a bit bored of the job - had I gone the other way, I may have lost patience! I went down the cork edging route so I could push the furniture back flush against the skirting; if you use quadrant to finish it off, you end up with a stand off. Trimming the skirting is a royal PITA, even using an oscillating type saw thingy and an offcut as a gauge.

Oh, use knee pads and have some sheets of ply or similar to lay over the bare underlay rather than risk compacting it by walking on it unprotected.
Click to expand...
Thanks, some good info there. There was laminate down before so the skirtings were already trimmed etc.
I'll start with the more difficult edge too, as I'm sure I'll get fed up. Only a small hall though, but 4 doorways, a stair, and an under stair section as well.:D
 
strumstrum said:
or if you are on a limited budget buy the best underlay and a cheaper AC3, it will serve you better than an AC5 on a thin foam membrane, especially if your floor isn't spot on level, and you know when it comes to upgrade the lam you will already have top quality underlay.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I'm using the thin foam underlay, but the laminate also has its own built in underlay. The floor is good, had laminate down before, but no underlay at all.
 
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