Just orderd Lastolite Hilite 6x7 with train

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Mr Mike

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As per subject just ordered the Hilite but unsure how many lights i need, i borrowed one of the large FITP hilite's and had 2 x yn460-II speedlights, 1 on each side which worked well with 2 x sb600 up front with shoot thru brolleys.

Q1 with this smaller 6x7 will 1 x yn460-II be sufficient to light it with a little PP after to make it all brilliant white?

Q2, with 2 lights i had stands firing the lights to the back about half way in height, with 1 light where do i put it, on the floor in middle firing up??

Sure i will work it out myself but im about to order 2 x yn460-II, 1 to use up front with shoot thru brolley along with my SB600 and the other for the hilite, depending on answers here i may order 3 but would rather not.

Cheers in advance

Mike
 
You will find it much more evenly lit with 2

I use 2x studio flash heads with mine.
 
What type of lights and how many do you recommend for the HiLite?

For the three smallest sizes of HiLite the 4'6"x3'3" (8990) 5'x6' (8857) and 6'x7' (8867) we recommend using one studio light between 200 and 400ws.
For the 8x7 (8878) we recommend two studio lights between 200 and 400ws.

For instructions on how to set up your HiLite please refer to this video:-

http://www.lastoliteschoolofphotography.com/setting-up-the-hilite
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so on that note, would hope 1 speedlite can do it - will be what I'm gonna use when I get one............on most of the vids i've seen there's only one light (and only 2 in landscape mode)

drew
 
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buckas said:
so on that note, would hope 1 speedlite can do it - will be what I'm gonna use when I get one............on most of the vids i've seen there's only one light (and only 2 in landscape mode)

drew
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I don't care what they say, you need two lights to get even illumination. If you only use one, you will need more power (which you don't have anyway with a hotshoe flash) to get enough light on the 'dark side', which will cause image degradation on the 'bright side'
 
Thanks for the replies on this, 2 sounds like the best idea then.

The FITP large hilite i borrowed is much larger, light in from each side works well so i hoped with my new purchase only being 6x7 1 light would work fine(tight git eh? :lol:)

If WHE are on time i will have it tomorrow (Sat) and still have the borrowed lights so i can try some tests before ordering my own.
 
ive got one and i use one but i am now going to start using two as you really need a lot more light to save yourself the time and hassle in ps
 
If using two, run one head higher than the other (or point them up/down slightly) to even out the light on the silver back and a more even spread.
 
I usually use 2 lights for the b/g but it's perfectly possible to use 1 speedlight.

Put it low down in the middle firing into the back (i.e. inside the hilite) + flag the front of it.
 
2 without a doubt, i've tried one and it just meant more PP, so now i have one in each side, then one on the subject with a large softbox, and on a shoot last Monday i tried one pointing at the floor which again saved me a lot of PP work and it's something i will always do in future (room space allowing)
 
dgillespie said:
ive got one and i use one but i am now going to start using two as you really need a lot more light to save yourself the time and hassle in ps
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Thanks for that, nice to hear 1 will work even if a little extra PP required

Kris said:
If using two, run one head higher than the other (or point them up/down slightly) to even out the light on the silver back and a more even spread.
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Cheers for the tip, i had two same height firing to the back on the borrowed setup but always had bright area central :bonk:

JonathanRyan said:
I usually use 2 lights for the b/g but it's perfectly possible to use 1 speedlight.

Put it low down in the middle firing into the back (i.e. inside the hilite) + flag the front of it.
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Again what i hoped to hear,i will give it ago mid floor firing back

TG. said:
2 without a doubt, i've tried one and it just meant more PP, so now i have one in each side, then one on the subject with a large softbox, and on a shoot last Monday i tried one pointing at the floor which again saved me a lot of PP work and it's something i will always do in future (room space allowing)
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So its defo 2 is best, might play around and see how much extra work is needed. Regarding the floor i intend to use two up front left/right shooting thru brolleys, will this not also catch the floor as well as model?
 
Mr Mike said:
Again what i hoped to hear,i will give it ago mid floor firing back

There is always little point in what you want to hear in most walks of life :D the facts are the majority on here will tell you how it is and the fact is you will struggle to get it right with one light, unless your prepared to do (and like doing) lots of PP, this was one of my main problems with lighting the white background, even though i can now do the PP fairly quick i would much rather i didn't have too

will this not also catch the floor as well as model?
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Unlikely, most people have problems with the floor from reading posts on here, even pointing a light at the floor can have disadvantages ie overexposing the bottom part of the subject, it really is something you will have to play around with to get right, as far as i can see the best way to get the floor right is to have some kind of raised floor that's lit underneath, or a reflective floor.
 
TG. said:
Unlikely, most people have problems with the floor from reading posts on here, even pointing a light at the floor can have disadvantages ie overexposing the bottom part of the subject, it really is something you will have to play around with to get right, as far as i can see the best way to get the floor right is to have some kind of raised floor that's lit underneath, or a reflective floor.
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Thanks again Tel, i can see this taking a bit of time and practice to get a setup that works under most conditions. I know what you are saying about 2 lights but due to buying everything at once i have only ordered 2 lights to go with my existing sb600. I will just have to live with it for a month or so, i did try 1 x YN460-II with power up sitting on the floor inside the middle last night and i managed to get it looking quite evenly lit which surprised me. One thing that is very different to the cheaper FITP hilite is the reflectiveness, the cheaper must lose a lot light bouncing out the back whereas it appears more contained within the Lastolite.

Regarding the floor, i guess the best would be a hilite lying down and tough enough to stand on, stick a couple o lights in and bingo but thats not going to happen :thinking:

Looking forward to playing and fine tuning a setup, going to take a bit of time, not like this is for a business so doesnt really matter too much.

Right large teddybear needed ASAP as i can already hear the moaning i would get....you said just one more....right thats its bored now....:bang:
 
How are you getting on with this now Mike? Just curious as we are using a Hilite with the vinyl train... great bit of kit. I am getting some great results from it. So glad we bought one.

I find the black bottle top easy to use too, do you have one of these to go over the hilite?
 
Im just buying a 7 x 6 hilite also this post will save me a lot of questions ... thanks guys
 
Ive also saw places offering alternatives to hilite backgrounds i suppose they are just copies but has anyone used these copies and how do they compare to the original Lastolite product ?
 
TG. said:
here is always little point in what you want to hear in most walks of life the facts are the majority on here will tell you how it is and the fact is you will struggle to get it right with one light, unless your prepared to do (and like doing) lots of PP
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Um yeah. Fortunately I've never really bothered with what the majority think....

I prefer 2 lights but you can easily work it with one if you know what you're doing ;)

As for post...background of a hilite shot never takes more than about 3 seconds.
 
munchycarrot said:
i'd say make sure you watch this :)
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+!

The method they tell you how to fold it in the manufacturers instructions is fine for the smaller hilites but for the big ones its very difficult to do that way even if you have long arms like me.

The method in the video above where you jam one edge into a corner and just keep turning it is way way easier!

I have the largest HiLite background they do and the first time I tried to put it in the bag I spent 20 mins trying to do it the manufacturers way and still didn't get it put away properly.

I then found the above video on youtube and it now takes me seconds to put it away. You don't need a sofa, just an angle (like where the floor meets the wall) to hold it in place when you turn it.

Watch the video and have a practice before taking your hilite out in public or you may end up as the entertainment like we did at the first wedding we used it at :)
 
JonathanRyan said:
you can easily work it with one if you know what you're doing ;)
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That may be the case with yourself, but presumably the OP didn't know hence why he asked for advice, the fact is to light a white background or Hilite evenly without having to mess around to much you need 2 lights one each side, for myself if i'm in a clients house/premises, i want to be able to do this quickly and efficiently so i can concentrate on the shoot and get the job done, it's the same as any trade really you need the right tools to do the job efficiently and professionally ;)
 
Additionally it is unlikely you will get away without having to do some PP on the train.

One tip is to get a couple of sheets of clear perspex from a DIY store. Laying it over the train gives a nice reflection and a small amount of PP just to remove the join of the sheets is all that may be necesary.
 
munchycarrot said:
How are you getting on with this now Mike? Just curious as we are using a Hilite with the vinyl train... great bit of kit. I am getting some great results from it. So glad we bought one.

I find the black bottle top easy to use too, do you have one of these to go over the hilite?
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Hi, spur of the moment decision...my house went on the market so i have been very busy not had a chance to play. Gutted actually but on the bright side if i get the house im after I will have a dedicated studio room setup permanently, this is something im really looking forward to. I dont have the back bottle top yet but defo on the shopping list for future.

UKC said:
Ive also saw places offering alternatives to hilite backgrounds i suppose they are just copies but has anyone used these copies and how do they compare to the original Lastolite product ?
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I borrowed a FITP large hilite prior to purchasing the Latolite, from the few quicks shots ive had i feel the Lastolite having the highly reflective back requires a lot less power due to the light not escaping out the back.

PsiFox said:
Additionally it is unlikely you will get away without having to do some PP on the train.

One tip is to get a couple of sheets of clear perspex from a DIY store. Laying it over the train gives a nice reflection and a small amount of PP just to remove the join of the sheets is all that may be necesary.
Click to expand...

Interesting idea, if i get the house im after with dedicated room this might be something i look into.
 
stev101 said:
have you looked at this site it is a fountain of lastolite it al show has about using 1 speed light to light the hilite

http://www.lastoliteschoolofphotography.com
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If you look at that vid, you can see when he uses a blue gel, that the background is not evenly lit with one light.

Also his work around for "cleaning up the grey" floor by the grey bits with the dropper tool sucks. It does get rid of some of the grey, but then over exposes the subjects.
 
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