Just cant understand this aperture/shutter speed thing

millymoo

millymoo

Suspended / Banned
Messages
9
Edit My Images
Yes
I have bought a secondhand DSLR Sony Alpha 300 on E Bay and I am using my Minolta lenses from my old film camera. I have the kit lens ,a 135mm-28 (f4-4.5) which has a macro setting, and an AF zoom lens 70-210mm (f4 1:4.5-5.6 donated by son). I have UV and polarising filters. I have a tripod and Ive just bought a Raynox 250 macro conversion lens (cant afford a proper 1:1 macro lens!! son says I wont get good results cos I have to get within 4 inches of the subject and then will not be able to hold the camera steady for a sharp shot) I figure I have enough kit for an amateur:lol:
I love to take macro shots, I love the dreamy out of focus backgrounds and I know that focussing can be difficult. I really dont understand how to set up the camera for these. Should I use AF or MF? Do I need to put dial in M mode, Macro setting, A or S. Son says need to use a tripod for real close ups because of shake but you cant usually get the position you want..and there is always the wind! Seems to me the answer may be take loads of pics and junk the duff ones because predicability is never certain. Perhaps I am trying to run before I can walk..but I'm not wasting film am I?
Guidance please!!:help:
 
The tripod will do more to improve things than anything else. Give it a try.


Steve.
 
Firstly, I don't think M is macro setting - that is manual mode.

I suggest you start off in A which will allow you to control your aperture. Aperture controls how much light passes through the lens. A wide aperture such as F4 will let more light through the lens than a narrow aperture such as F16. Also, at a wide aperture you will get more of the background out of focus, and a higher shutter speed.

With regard to shutter speed your primary aim here is to try and freeze any motion from the subject moving, or camera shake. Now with macro you have high magnification which means any motion shows up more. Aim for at least 1/125 shutter speed ideally more.

When it is windy, macro is not very much fun at all. Personally I would say practice on subject that are not likely to move to get an idea of technique to use. Indoors by a big window helps.

The thing to do, in my experience at least, is take it one step at a time. Bolting all your gear together and running outside to shoot insects can lead to a very frustrating day. So when I was teaching my mum I got her to bring a few flowers back inside and practise on those. Much better results. Once you can comfortably set up and shoot static stuff then start on moving stuff.

Tripod... well this will help a lot but only the right one. Elcheapo special that doesn't go down very low or is inflexible will not help in any way. You do need a good tripod to benefit from using one with macro - lower quality ones will cause more camera shake than the cure.
 
RichardtheSane said:
lower quality ones will cause more camera shake than the cure.
Click to expand...

Whilst this is true, you can make a flimsy tripod more sturdy by hanging more weight from it. It is common to hang your camera bag or a bag of rocks from the bottom of the centre column. Some tripod manufacturers even provide a hook for this purpose.


Steve.
 
The easiest way to get sharp macro photos with no motion blur without using a tripod is to use your flash to freeze the subject. A flash fires for an extremely brief period of time so gives the same effect as a very fast shutter speed. The flash will not help you get your pictures in focus though.

Most people shoot macro using manual focus. If doing this handheld you set the focus to about the correct setting and then to fine tune your focus you move the camera backwards and forwards very slightly until the image is sharp in the view finder.

You get a very shallow depth of field in macro photography i.e. a very small range of distance where things are in focus sometimes only a millimetre or two depth of field. To help with this you can use a smaller aperture, something like F11, going smaller than that can introduce diffraction issues.

It is normal to have a low keeper rate when shooting macro.

Loads of useful info here: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=807056
 
Last edited:
Thanks Richard, Steve and the 'Idlefrog'!,
Yes, I know the 'M' on the dial stands for manual focussing bit there are also tiny icons for macro, portraits, landscape etc on the dial which I am familiar with on my Canon sureshot compact but I take your point about using 'A' aperture priority. Yes too to taking shots on flowers in pots and vases. I find the tripod thing a faff. I have had some nice snaps...but when I look at other peoples offerings on this site, wow!.. I'm an old dear on the learning curve...but I'm lovin it!

How can I add in my recent photos into my posts like you Idlefrog, Ive gotten them into a members album on this site. Yours are stunning by the way.
 
Last edited:
millymoo said:
Yes, I know the 'M' on the dial stands for manual focussing
Click to expand...

No. The M on the dial refers to the shutter speed and aperture needing to be set manually. The focus will still be automatic unless you turn this off separately.


Steve.
 
Hi Richard, Steve and the Idlefrog, some useful points for me, thank you.
Yes, I know that the M on the dial is for manual mode...but there are little icons on the dial for macro, portraits etc which I have on my point and shoot compact canon too.
I have yet to try the tripod which I suspect is a cheapie, it is inherited as a 'cast off' from techie son number 1. I'll try Aperture priority and see what effect that this has and I do move me rather than the camera and try to get a good steady shot.
Richard I'm like your mum...its flowers that interest me and Hampton Court RHS show is looming, bugs and flies arent for me.

Anyone used a Raynox 250 conversion lens? I aim to put it on my 35-105mm zoom lens
I am getting some reasonable efforts (a matter of opinion), check out my gallery..only 3 pics in there at the mo!
 
As well as M not meaning manual focusing, be aware that the macro,portrait etc settings don't mean they automatically make Macro or portrait photos possible.

The macro icon simply makes the aperture narrower to enable a larger depth of field and probably raised the ISO to enable a faster shutter speed to reduce motion blur.
It doesn't allow you to get any closer to the subject.
This is purely down to the lens and any macro filter attachments or tubes you may be using.

Learn to use A,S and M modes and try to avoid the automatic icon modes.
 
millymoo said:
How can I add in my recent photos into my posts like you Idlefrog, Ive gotten them into a members album on this site. Yours are stunning by the way.
Click to expand...

Most people here upload their pics to something like Flickr and then link them to their posts. There's a 'sticky' on how to do this.

Get used to using a tripod, it helps you set up your shots, something less to worry about.
If it is windy outside, block the wind! Use a screen of some sorts, but don't block the light.
 
Many thanks to all.
Yes I know Flickr. I'll set that up when Ive got enough pics worth sharing. Number 1 techie son does that too, I wouldnt want to give him too much competition and steal his lightening!!. I'm not bad on the computer end of things for an old bird.
I'll take a close look with the tripod and have a play. Trouble is you need a trolley to wheel all the gear around..takes away the spontaneity, thats why people use iphones.. the days of the compact camera will be numbered I suppose, but the quality of the image wont be there.
Oh God, there is the dreaded ISO to learn about also but if He sent some sunshine it would be a big help!
 
You'll find you need a tripod or really steady hands if you get the Raynox, the slightest movement, even pushing the shutter, can throw your focus out until you get used to it.

Macro photography can be very frustrating and also very rewarding.

Best of luck with it and check out the macro section for some ideas of what you can do when you have the correct technique.
 
millymoo said:
Oh God, there is the dreaded ISO to learn about also but if He sent some sunshine it would be a big help!
Click to expand...

ISO is pretty easy really. Think of it that turning the ISO up makes the camera more sensitive to light, the drawback being that the higher ISO's give more noise in the image.

When shooting flowers I'd try and keep my shutter speed at least the equal of the focal length so if using a 100mm lens I'd try and keep the shutter speed above 1/100 sec and I'd be much happier at at least x1.5 the focal length so that would be 1/150 sec or faster.

This is where changing the ISO helps. If you can't get the shutter speed you want at ISO 100 increase the ISO to 200, then 400 etc until you get a good balance between the aperture, shutter speed and ISO. If you do turn the ISO up remember to turn it down again if and when the shutter speed creeps back up.
 
Last edited:
millymoo said:
How can I add in my recent photos into my posts like you Idlefrog, Ive gotten them into a members album on this site. Yours are stunning by the way.
Click to expand...


Hi, you need to put your photos on Flickr to create a signature like mine. Flickr is free and easy to use and is probably the easiest way to show photos is your post by linking to them.

There is a guide here to making a signature similar to mine: http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=307615
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top