Jumping into film?

Bennp2000

Bennp2000

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Paul
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I've found that each time I've noticed a (modest) progresion in my photography its been brought about by pushing myself in an area that I don't really have a great deal of knowledge; enter the world of film.

I have shot film in the past, but being 26 that was in the point and shoot kind of way and nothing where I actually took control over the camera (having only really gained an interest in the last few years). I've got an old (Grandads) 35mm SLR in the cupboard and I intend on getting a roll of Velvia and seeing if it (or I can get it) to work for starters. There's also a lightmeter in his bag of tricks so I can play with that and my DSLR to learn how to meter manually.

I'm also really tempted to pick up a medium format or even large format system. A few of my freinds have Mamiya 645 cameras which would mean I could borrow odds and end, the PRO-tl looks interesting (and coincidentally one of my freinds is selling his too).

I find tilt and shift xtremely interesting, I'd really love to be able to get to grips with it and take more meticulous control over my shooting (I can't afford a Canon TSE, are there any other good working alternatives, adapters seem the best bet?). What do people think?

... should I be brave and jump to large format? Can people recommend view camera's that aren't ridiculously massive and heavy but also won't cost the earth? Or would it be foolish to try and learn the art of film using such an expensive size?

Also if anyone has any 3d visualisation of tilt and shift effects and DoF they could link I'd be very grateful. I've read the Cambridge in Colour articles and 'think' I get it.

(btw, if you're taking a look at my link then it'd likely be for Peak District landscapes rather than portraiture.)
 
If you are testing out a camera that's been in a cupboard for a while, then I wouldn't recommend Velvia as a first film to put through it - it's pretty tight on exposure lattitude, so if there is a problem with either the meter or the shutter in the camera you'll know about it very quickly! If you'd still like something high quality to put through the camera, then Ektar or portra 160 or 400 will both see you good!

As for larger formats, it's just a matter of finding somewhere to dev colour film or jumping in and devving yourself if you want BW film.

I'd stick a few rolls of 35mm through your camera, see how you like it and then think about spending more money :)
 
I've just looked at your webpage. **** it - buy a MF SLR and put us all to shame - you clearly know your way around a camera ;)
 
Thanks, you haven't seen the other 700,000 shots ;) ... The joys of climbing and living in the Peak is that you get more than your fair share of chances with nice light! Oh and photoshop tweaks too.

My thinking was if I went down the MF line then if digital backs ever become affordable (proper sized ones) then it'd be an easy upgrade path.

I've just got the 35mm out, sounds to me as the shutter is only firing at one speed but then again I DON'T know my way around it at all, nor the light meter I keep pointing at various light sources in the flat!
 
Simples, buy a Fuji GX680. Tilt and shift on every lens, yeah go on then.
 
Bennp2000 said:
Thanks, you haven't seen the other 700,000 shots ;) ... The joys of climbing and living in the Peak is that you get more than your fair share of chances with nice light! Oh and photoshop tweaks too.

My thinking was if I went down the MF line then if digital backs ever become affordable (proper sized ones) then it'd be an easy upgrade path.

I've just got the 35mm out, sounds to me as the shutter is only firing at one speed but then again I DON'T know my way around it at all, nor the light meter I keep pointing at various light sources in the flat!
Click to expand...

If it's only firing on one speed change the battery and try it again.

You can't go wrong with MF, even if you stick to scanning you'll get a 16bit 130MP file to play with. And you won't lose money on the gear, it's rock bottom already I think lol :thumbs:
 
Ignore all the comments ;)
If you are after movements then go large format, you can control the focal planes and image shape. I'm biased and will admit it, but having had a LF camera for a year I would not go back now.
BTW some stunning climbing shots, I know most of the areas where they where taken. I'm taking my 5x4 to Bleau later in the year and hope to get some good stuff out there.

Mart
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
If it's only firing on one speed change the battery and try it again.
Click to expand...

God I wonder where that is on it (some form of Praktica).

Simples, buy a Fuji GX680. Tilt and shift on every lens, yeah go on then.
Click to expand...



Wow, they look amazing but fairly big (and likely a bit too pricey really)? I know the other options aren't small but there is a bit of a limit.

I'll rephrase "My thinking was if I went down the MF line then if digital backs ever become affordable (proper sized ones) then it'd be an easy alternate path.

If you are after movements then go large format, you can control the focal planes and image shape. I'm biased and will admit it, but having had a LF camera for a year I would not go back now.
I'm taking my 5x4 to Bleau later in the year and hope to get some good stuff out there.
Click to expand...

Be careful with your equipment in Bleau, there's been loads of crime in recent years from cars, bags etc. I'm always paranoid about leaving my bag anywhere, even just around the corner while I'm trying stuff! The movements are definitely appealing, maybe solely because its something new to learn.
 
If it is a later Praktica model IE BC1 BCX BX20 BCA B200 series then the battery compartment is on the bottom plate just under the lens mount.

It takes a 6v battery. If the existing battery is duff the camera will only fire at 1/90 sec.


John:)
 
Bennp2000 said:
My thinking was if I went down the MF line then if digital backs ever become affordable (proper sized ones) then it'd be an easy upgrade path.
Click to expand...


This is the Film Forum, nothing digital can ever be an upgrade...;)


Marvin d martian said:
Ignore all the comments ;)
If you are after movements then go large format, you can control the focal planes and image shape.
Mart
Click to expand...


This ^

Useful movements are on 5x4 and larger, you can play about with movements a little with bellows attachments available for some MF systems but really, LF is where its at..:)
 
Tilt & Shift → Try these lenses?
Alternatively as mentioned above, large format cameras allow adjustments. Best wishes, have fun playing around with the grandad's SLR :}
 
If you want tilt and shift then I would say large format is the way to go if you don't mind sticking to B&W then its not that costly either IMHO. I picked up the following off ebay:

Cambo monorail bellows camera with graphex lens for just over £100
MF 120 roll film back for it £75 (don't bother)

I then decided it was too awkward to drag around so sold it and got my money back and bought a tatty Graflex speed graphic for about £45, it works fine but I'm tarting it up at the moment.

If you want tilt and shift the cambo or any bellows camera will give you everything you want and more, go with cheap film (Adox or similar) and you are looking at £1 a sheet developed yourself or there abouts (Of if your super tight cut down photographic paper and use that as paper negs). It will be a MASSIVE learning curve but very good fun, you will probably spend the first week just focussing stuff on the GG screen and not take a single shot.
 
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j37r said:
If it is a later Praktica model IE BC1 BCX BX20 BCA B200 series then the battery compartment is on the bottom plate just under the lens mount.

It takes a 6v battery. If the existing battery is duff the camera will only fire at 1/90 sec.


John:)
Click to expand...

Thanks, given its not been used for ~20 years I'd guess the battery is dead. Amazingly I just took the batteries out of the burst mode adapter he had and they weren't corroded at all!

I guess what I'm worried about with LF is that the learning curve may be steep and expensive (I'd be willing to learn B+W but ultimately I'd want colour), and secondly, I haven't a clue what I'd get (not stupidly big or heavy preferably, nor extremely costly).

The MF gives me a route to upgrading my digital (there you go, is that better?) and the Mamiya's seem a pretty good compromise in size and price (although a friend thinks his Hartblei might not be that good if I ever got a digital back) and I'd maybe have to forgoe tilt and shift.

The fuji's look cool but they seem to be mahoosive.
 
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Paul, I'm planning on getting out to the peak in the near future, like the next month or so. If you like to catch up and have a look at LF kit and take some shots you are more than welcome.

Mart
 
Ok, battery located.

Is there anything else I should have a good look at that could go wrong? If not, any other recommendations for which film I should start out with (I love deep saturation) and what I should expect to pay for it? (buying/developing/scanning).

There's a light meter of sorts in his bag too, if I stick up a picture would people be willing to try and explain to me how it works?

Thanks again for all the help thus far!
 
Bennp2000 said:
There's a light meter of sorts in his bag too, if I stick up a picture would people be willing to try and explain to me how it works?
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Course, we don't need a picture, just say what it is..:)
 
I'm either not old enough or you two old timers are witterin about some obscure b/w Monty Python sketch or something..:p


Anyway, I've figured that light meter out now I've realised it doesn't have two bladdy buttons at the bottom, they are in fact press studs for the case..:whistling:

Set ISO, in this case its 400 but you're just as likely to be shooting Delta 100, in which case it would be 100.
Take a meter reading, the black needle will move and settle, turn the dial (and I'm just guessing that the red needle with the spy hole moves with the dial) till the red needle lines up with the black needles new position.
I'm also guessing that the time scale moves with the red needle too.
So now you have the time and Fstop scales lined up some what.
Just taking the Stitz picture as an example even though its not lined up that well, it reads just under 1 sec @ F/32....or 1/750th @ F/1.4..etc etc

:)
 
Thanks, I've been looking at it and thinking it just didn't make sense (turns out the two windows [that are colour coded, doh] were the wrong way around.

(ps - I'm too old too, or ill-educated).
 
Norma Snockers wasn't she related to Betty Swallocks?

Andy
 
Well, a friend came around with his new (old) view camera and his Mamiya 645 pro TL.

It immediately became evident which one would be for me; the MF at most. The other camera just took far too long to set up (for what I usually shoot), there just seemed to be so many drawbacks of the LF option.

I was bit surprised (stupidly) by the size and bulk of the 645 pro TL but it felt fairly intuitive in my hands and wasn't 'too' bulky. He said that the 645 pro TL was his choice as it was recommended to him by someone using them for shots of arctic explorers who described it as the LandRovers of the medium format worls, i.e. reliable and built like a tank.

I'm itching to save up and splash some cash. Now all I have to figure out is the bit after the pressing the shutter, I bet developing, scanning and then printing is completely different and a whole new set of things to learn?
 
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