iso noise and L glass

so am i right in thinking here that when ive posted up shots in the past and talked about noise, those telling me to invest in better glass were simply wrong?

and that noise is due to the sensor, and the way the camera deals with it?
so a better camera deals with noise better not a better lens...?

And in summary, ive been right to upgrade my body and not go out buying loads of expensive glass?

Been an interesting thread so far :)
 
Perhaps I'm missing something here, and it's more of a question than any disagreement? (not aimed at your post Woodsy, but you do raise the point) ... I can't understand how light is actually a factor at all in the 'real' noise, as opposed to perceived or 'visible' noise in any shot...? Noise is an electrical issue with the sensor .. :thinking: The photosites have a capacity for electons, i.e. counting the number of hits, which is simply numbers! Noise is a failure within the cmos / ccd or whatever to accurately record the photon count ... multiply this by 4 and the colours can go seriously wacky! ... I have always believed that the smaller the photosites the lesser the capacity for accurate image definition .... I agree thatbetter glass can give the illusion of less noise, but that is all it is ... an illusion ...... but at the end of the day the image is what we see, not the numbers ;)

That's the thing, light is not part of it, and hence my whole argument that the lens has nothing to do with the 'visible' or 'real' (which I would say are the same thing? - after all, we only see it as visible, so that would be real no?). Yes, you're absolutely right, the sensor is crudely speaking just a photon counter, with each potential well having a "capacity" for electron energy states. The low end above the - I shall call it 'noise level' - and the high end below highlight is the dynamic range, in a manner of speaking. So it's crucial to understand what noise is. It's simply the general term given to "signal" that is not part of the original information received. So when the sensor is active, it's collecting photons of any wavelength that will excite energy levels within the wells, which includes those given off as heat whilst the sensor heats up. This heightens the noise level at the sensor stage, and lessens the difference between the signal and noise levels. Signal in this case ideally meaning the photons in the visible spectrum that we see that ultimately make up the desired image.

So far, this has all been sensor based. We need now look at the electronics that actually amplify the information. Remembering of course that it amplifies the signal AND the noise. Here we see all sorts of noise introduced, again in the form of heat, but also in things like reflections in the electronic tracks as differences in impedance occur.

Once this has all been amplified up to the desired "exposure", we see the results in the form of the image.

My point in the post above was to illustrate how, if the amount of light - or signal - is the same from both lenses, there will be no difference in the amount of noise. After all, how can there be? If the signal is the same, then the exposure time is the same, which means the sensor is active for the same time, and thus the amount of noise must be the same at the sensor stage. So personally, I see no physical reason why the lens should alter the amount of noise we see on the final image. I quite agree that it will help with image sharpness, and further I also agree that smaller sensors, or at least sensors with a higher pixel density, will have a lesser ability to capture definition. But this is due to diffraction limitations. Sharper lenses definitely help in this situation.
 
so am i right in thinking here that when ive posted up shots in the past and talked about noise, those telling me to invest in better glass were simply wrong?

and that noise is due to the sensor, and the way the camera deals with it?
so a better camera deals with noise better not a better lens...?

And in summary, ive been right to upgrade my body and not go out buying loads of expensive glass?

Been an interesting thread so far :)

Depends ;) - if your shooting with a slow lens and high ISO then a faster lens will allow you to shoot with a lower ISO for the same shutter speed which will reduce the amount of noise.
 
Could you explain, or post a link to how that works please?
I always thought if a lens was at say 50mm and f5.6 then that would be the same no matter what lens used?

Apart from things like focus speed, quality of glass/iq etc how does a lens thats say a f2.8 set at f5.6 be better for noise than a lens thats f3.5-5.6 set at f5.6?

I see a lot of posts referring to 'fast' glass etc but i assumed this was focus speed?
 
Could you explain, or post a link to how that works please?
I always thought if a lens was at say 50mm and f5.6 then that would be the same no matter what lens used?

Apart from things like focus speed, quality of glass/iq etc how does a lens thats say a f2.8 set at f5.6 be better for noise than a lens thats f3.5-5.6 set at f5.6?

I see a lot of posts referring to 'fast' glass etc but i assumed this was focus speed?

Ok i didnt explain properly - :) as were are talking about high iso noise

if you are shooting at 200mm with a f5.6 lens and you no you need a minimum shutter speed of 1/200 you would crank up the iso untill you got a shutter speed of 1/200 as you cant change the aperture as it wont go any lower so noise increases as you increase the ISO ..........but

If you had a faster lens say a f2.8 you could reduce your aperture to try and get 1/200 .
 
Better build, water resistance on some, better glass, usually faster, big white and obvious, can take a beating so you can use them to fend off your angry wife/partner, faster focussing. Probably more to add but all i can think of at the mo.

Edit: OO err, before i posted i swear there was a poster asking about L glass but it seemed to have vanished so this seems a little out of place now.
 
omg i think a small part of me died reading this thread, talk about suck the fun out of photography lol

lol, I was very interested in this thread as I'm about to buy some L lenses but it's becoming a little blurry now.
 
I suspect the metering difference is either down to transmission, or close focus distance.

You could put a piece of white card to fill the frame 1m away, focus to infinity, meter an exposure and then manually set it to the same value on both lenses. Compare the histograms. One will probably be slightly lighter than the other.

It's possible that the small difference happens over the point between exposures. The light meter has a higher sensitivity than the possible outcomes allow.
 
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