ISO - Auto or not?

I think the 1Dx is the only Canon where auto ISO works like Nikon's.

Honestly, you're paying a lot of money for a smart camera... use it when it helps you. Personally, I almost never turn auto ISO off.
 
theurbanclown said:
See, I'd argue the opposite. With manual you are changing iso, shutter speed and aperture - even when the metering is working for itself it will not always be accurate, which means adjusting accordingly.

For me auto iso + av mode + min shutter speed is the way to go. It just means you have to know your camera's metering system inside out, but that's also the case if you're shooting manual.

Obviously manual works for you which is good, but I wouldn't say it's necessarily easier.
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My point being, if I'm shooting in consistent light, say, outside on a cloudy day - or inside shooting someone on stage with a spotlight and dark background. If I'm in manual, I can set and forget. Whereas if I'm in AV - the meter will set different exposures depending on how I compose the shot / the tone of the subject in the frame. Obviously that's pretty easy to account for, but it just creates an extra bit of work - and who likes work?
 
I like my Auto ISO, stick it in manual and it's just like shooting C41.
 
Jayst84 said:
My point being, if I'm shooting in consistent light, say, outside on a cloudy day - or inside shooting someone on stage with a spotlight and dark background. If I'm in manual, I can set and forget. Whereas if I'm in AV - the meter will set different exposures depending on how I compose the shot / the tone of the subject in the frame. Obviously that's pretty easy to account for, but it just creates an extra bit of work - and who likes work?
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Full manual *can be* the easiest way to work... but set-it-and-forget-it can have it's own compromises
 
XA2inmypocket said:
Personally I haven't used Auto ISO for years. It isn't a decision that I trust a camera to make.
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Are you using the camera's meter? Then it's making a decision on the ISO (exposure). You don't have to agree/use it regardless of what mode it's in.
ISO is the FIRST thing I'll give up.
 
sk66 said:
Are you using the camera's meter? Then it's making a decision on the ISO (exposure). You don't have to agree/use it regardless of what mode it's in.
ISO is the FIRST thing I'll give up.
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To be honest, these days I mainly use a fully manual medium format film system camera that doesn't even have a light meter. I use the Sunny F16 rule, and the ISO will depend on what films that I have loaded in the camera or spare film backs.

However... All that I'm saying is that even on a fully auto DSLR or digital bridge camera, I haven't left ISO in Auto select for years. I select the ISO. Thinking about it, when I moved several years ago from being a point & shoot photographer to understanding and embracing the exposure triangle - the first control that I took was of the ISO. I have more than once heard people with mobile phone cameras or compact cameras, moan to me that their image quality was awful. When I check, they are shooting in low light, in Auto ISO. Some of these dumbed down cameras like to ramp the ISO up and down rather than aperture or shutter speed. On high ISO, they produce awful noisy images.

I can't be alone in this. I'm surprised how many people here are saying that they leave their ISO in Auto.
 
if a camera will only use auto iso once it has exhausted shutter and iso options then there is no real risk to using it as long as you have carefully selected the shutter speed for it to take effect at
 
XA2inmypocket said:
I can't be alone in this. I'm surprised how many people here are saying that they leave their ISO in Auto.
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Here's the thing, SS and Aperture determines what an image *IS.* ISO only contributes certain other less relevant (IMO) factors such as DR, color depth, ISO noise.

I would image you're doing the same thing... You envision an image with a certain sharpness, DOF, and qtty of motion. You set the aperture and SS needed for that and THEN balance it with the required ISO.

Certainly, if you have more of either SS or sharpness/DOF than the image requires then you adjust those to get the lowest ISO possible. But then the initial settings weren't "correct" to start with.

Many cameras (Nikons at least) can be set to do this automatically *IF* you know how to set them.
 
boliston said:
if a camera will only use auto iso once it has exhausted shutter and iso options then there is no real risk to using it as long as you have carefully selected the shutter speed for it to take effect at
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Some cameras can be set to use auto ISO very appropriately... or at least exactly the same way I would set it manually.

With my Nikons in aperture priority I can set it so that the camera uses the minimum ISO until the SS reaches the minimum limit I set. At that point it will start increasing the ISO until it reaches the maximum limit I set. After it reaches the maximum ISO it will start reducing the SS below my minimum setting.
I can change the aperture at any time to change the setting of whatever the camera is currently adjusting for me. If it's at minimum ISO and changing the SS slower/faster than I want I can change the aperture and move the SS back. If it's adjusting the ISO because the SS is at the minimum and I would rather have a lower ISO I can open the aperture.

Sometimes I want more control and will use manual mode with auto ISO... very rarely do I need/want full manual control. But I have other cameras which cannot be set up to function the way I would want them to, and in those cases I take more control earlier.
 
sk66 said:
Here's the thing, SS and Aperture determines what an image *IS.* ISO only contributes certain other less relevant (IMO) factors such as DR, color depth, ISO noise.

I would image you're doing the same thing... You envision an image with a certain sharpness, DOF, and qtty of motion. You set the aperture and SS needed for that and THEN balance it with the required ISO.

Certainly, if you have more of either SS or sharpness/DOF than the image requires then you adjust those to get the lowest ISO possible. But then the initial settings weren't "correct" to start with.

Many cameras (Nikons at least) can be set to do this automatically *IF* you know how to set them.
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I'm going to have to beg to differ on this one. Even if some models of DSLR manufactured by one company do have some sort of clever programming. Surely rather than going to lengths of learning how to set the program controls of an automatic exposure camera, it would be better to learn how to manipulate the good old fashioned exposure triangle. Then you have the skill to successfully master a wide range of cameras, and much more to the point, have the ability to create the images that you perceive.

I'm not advocating that beginners go to my length (as I said, I use a Bronica SQ-A system that has no automatic exposure controls nor even a light meter. Just a shutter speed control, an aperture ring on the lens, and the ISO of the film. I decide on the entire exposure triangle,). However, if a DSLR is to be used as a learning tool, then selecting ISO manually, is a start towards learning one of the most basic skills of photography.

Just my thoughts, but I'm no expert. I wouldn't condone anyone for shooting in fully Auto everything. However, if they do, without even mastering exposure, then their photography will always have limits, and they miss out.
 
XA2inmypocket said:
However, if they do, without even mastering exposure, then their photography will always have limits, and they miss out.
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I agree... in fact, using the camera programming to do stuff for you while remaining in control can be harder. If you don't know what your camera is going to do, why it's going to do it, how that will affect the image, and how you can override it; then you're not "in control."

A lot of people advocate learning photography exposure by starting off with a priority mode... I think that's "backwards." While learning full manual first may seem like a lot, it's a "once-and done" deal. It forces you to learn how everything interacts, and once you have that you can use anything.

But using auto ISO does not equate to not knowing how to use ISO manually... nor does it equate to not being "in control." The original question was about using auto ISO, not about understanding ISO.
 
I use auto ISO as I shoot Nikon and as long as you know what the camera is going to do and why then it is great (except for specific circumstances where fixed exposure is required, which is what manual really is).

I have seen a few times recently people saying they shoot in "full manual" with auto ISO :coat:
 
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sk66 said:
I agree... in fact, using the camera programming to do stuff for you while remaining in control can be harder. If you don't know what your camera is going to do, why it's going to do it, how that will affect the image, and how you can override it; then you're not "in control."

A lot of people advocate learning photography exposure by starting off with a priority mode... I think that's "backwards." While learning full manual first may seem like a lot, it's a "once-and done" deal. It forces you to learn how everything interacts, and once you have that you can use anything.

But using auto ISO does not equate to not knowing how to use ISO manually... nor does it equate to not being "in control." The original question was about using auto ISO, not about understanding ISO.
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I'm sure that we agree on more than we differ. Perhaps I fail to see your point because I don't use a recent model of DSLR. I have owned a few older DSLRs (Pentax K110D, and Sony A200), and certainly I would never leave them on Auto ISO. Although I lived 40 years in the Age of Film, I was only ever a snap shooter. Ironically, I cut my exposure teeth on digital bridge and DSLR cameras. I found being able to quickly ascertain results without cost to be a great advantage of digital. Over the past three years though, I've returned to film, but have taken that knowledge of exposure that I gained while capturing on digital. Shooting with a simple one stop box camera makes you more aware of what a camera is doing. Shooting without any range finder makes you more aware of how important it can be to maintain depth of field, for the sake of capturing some sort of focus of the subject. I enjoy the learning curve of photography - it is what makes me enthusiastic.

Love your wild-life Flickr by the way Steven, wonderful stuff mate.
 
XA2inmypocket said:
I'm sure that we agree on more than we differ. Perhaps I fail to see your point because I don't use a recent model of DSLR.
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I think we do. The main difference is probably in what/how we shoot. For the types of things I primarily photograph, and the way I do it (I don't sit in one place for long usually) automation is a blessing. My lighting is constantly changing, sometimes between frames. (i.e. tracking a bird in the sun that flies into shade or switching side-to-side, from front-lit to back-lit).

Love your wild-life Flickr by the way Steven, wonderful stuff mate.
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Thank you.
 
If only the OP had given all the relevant info.

He shoots Canon (I had to dig), the answer is simple:
If you have a 1dx, yes
If you don't:
Do you shoot Manual? Yes, then don't use auto ISO, you lose control totally
No, then yes you can try it.
 
Nawty said:
I have seen a few times recently people saying they shoot in "full manual" with auto ISO :coat:
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I do. In full manual you want to control the entire exposure triangle. With auto ISO (Nikon's and 1Dx) you're controlling all three simultaneously. Without auto ISO you have to find/push (hold?) a pesky little ISO button, then turn a dial, acknowledge the setting, and then maybe change something else...

But when things are simple and pretty constant, full manual set-it-and-forget-it can be very easy.
There's no one single answer (I wish there was). When you talk about Auto/Manual ISO you could just as easily be debating metering modes.
 
I wanted to add one thing. I find it very easy to change my ISO on my 5dIII. I can do this without even pulling my face away from the viewfinder or moving my hands positioning. All I do is use my index finger and it's done. Like I mentioned before, there are times when the camera raise the ISO too high and by doing the adjustment myself I'm assured the proper adjustment. Just wanted to mention this. Thanks.
 
ISO is what I set as I take the camera out of the bag, it's 2nd nature/a luxury having come from film.

But if I shot Nikon, I might very well just use auto, what's not to like.
 
shaylou said:
I wanted to add one thing. I find it very easy to change my ISO on my 5dIII. I can do this without even pulling my face away from the viewfinder or moving my hands positioning. All I do is use my index finger and it's done. Like I mentioned before, there are times when the camera raise the ISO too high and by doing the adjustment myself I'm assured the proper adjustment. Just wanted to mention this. Thanks.
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Usually this is possible if you're in one of the other semi automatic modes... in which case you're still giving the camera control of the exposure... you just have a different "priority" of what you would like the camera to control.

On many cameras the ISO function can be assigned to a more convenient button (fn/pre) so that it's at least a one hand operation while in full manual. That way you don't have to move your supporting hand while shooting. I can't imaging why you wouldn't do that if you shoot in full manual (for me the pre button is about useless for previewing).
 
Phil V said:
ISO is what I set as I take the camera out of the bag, it's 2nd nature/a luxury having come from film.

But if I shot Nikon, I might very well just use auto, what's not to like.
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The only issue with "setting the ISO" is that *IF* you don't want to have to worry about it or change it, then you have to set it higher than might otherwise be required. I wouldn't really call that "a problem" unless you're working on the edge of where ISO becomes problematic for your camera/needs.

Auto ISO while is S/(Tv) works "backwards" with Nikon (just like Canon?)... I never use that mode. I go to manual instead (usually with auto ISO).

There are plenty of times where auto ISO is of no benefit and can even be problematic... These are typically situations where you are not "meter dependent" (i.e. you can have multiple attempts to refine the image). I don't want anyone misconstruing it as if I'm saying you *should* use auto ISO...
 
what an interesting thread. Quick ISO related question. I mostly shoot static cars during daylight. I tend to stick to ISO 50 as I believed this would give me the best image quality. I see a lot of recommendations for ISO 100, why is this? I use a Sony A77.
 
sduk said:
what an interesting thread. Quick ISO related question. I mostly shoot static cars during daylight. I tend to stick to ISO 50 as I believed this would give me the best image quality. I see a lot of recommendations for ISO 100, why is this? I use a Sony A77.
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Usually you want to use the lowest "real ISO" when possible. For most digital cameras ISO 50 isn't an option. On some cameras a lower "real ISO" is achieved by trimming back the operating voltage of the amplifier; in which case there may be a slight decrease in performance or no difference between the two (i.e. 50 vs 100 on your camera).

Your usage should be based upon your needs and the results... not on what anyone says.
 
sk66 said:
The only issue with "setting the ISO" is that *IF* you don't want to have to worry about it or change it, then you have to set it higher than might otherwise be required. I wouldn't really call that "a problem" unless you're working on the edge of where ISO becomes problematic for your camera/needs.

Auto ISO while is S/(Tv) works "backwards" with Nikon (just like Canon?)... I never use that mode. I go to manual instead (usually with auto ISO).

There are plenty of times where auto ISO is of no benefit and can even be problematic... These are typically situations where you are not "meter dependent" (i.e. you can have multiple attempts to refine the image). I don't want anyone misconstruing it as if I'm saying you *should* use auto ISO...
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With (most) canon cameras you can't override the meter in Manual, there is no exp comp
It's great for you Nikon users but stop assuming that means it's universally great please.
 
Phil V said:
With (most) canon cameras you can't override the meter in Manual, there is no exp comp
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Except the 1Dx.

It's great for you Nikon users but stop assuming that means it's universally great please.
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"usually with auto ISO" would imply that it's not universally great, not even with Nikons. And delineating the discussion as being between Canon/Nikon is probably a disservice... I have no idea how all of the other brands/models handle auto ISO in manual mode. I'm simply stating how I use it with my cameras.
About three posts up I specifically stated that I am not saying anyone should do anything... just in case someone might misconstrue my comments.
 
sk66 said:
Usually this is possible if you're in one of the other semi automatic modes... in which case you're still giving the camera control of the exposure... you just have a different "priority" of what you would like the camera to control.

Actually it is possible in any mode. The button is in the same place and access to it never changes regardless of mode.
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I'm guessing you're using a Canon? It seems that Canon puts the ISO button in a much better location than Nikon does... I have to assign it to the fn/pre button to make it a one hand operation; or use "easy ISO" (no button required).
 
sk66 said:
I'm guessing you're using a Canon? It seems that Canon puts the ISO button in a much better location than Nikon does... I have to assign it to the fn/pre button to make it a one hand operation; or use "easy ISO" (no button required).
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Yes it's a Canon. It seems that I'm the only one that has come across the camera picking the wrong ISO while shooting. It didn't happen a lot but it did happen enough for me to stop using it on auto.
 
It's a pity camera manufacturers don't have a dedicated ISO dial with proper markings and click stops for 100/200/400/1600/3200/6400 etc - I'd probably then set my ISO manually, but most cameras make you faff about holding down a button while twiddling an unmarked dial while squinting at a tiny lcd screen.
 
boliston said:
It's a pity camera manufacturers don't have a dedicated ISO dial with proper markings and click stops for 100/200/400/1600/3200/6400 etc - I'd probably then set my ISO manually, but most cameras make you faff about holding down a button while twiddling an unmarked dial while squinting at a tiny lcd screen.
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Fuji XT1 has a dedicated ISO dial along with shutter speed and compensation. Most of the time, I leave mine in auto with base ISO of 200 and Max at 1600. Also, when needed I have no problems shooting ISO 6400 with this camera.
 
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boliston said:
It's a pity camera manufacturers don't have a dedicated ISO dial with proper markings and click stops for 100/200/400/1600/3200/6400 etc - I'd probably then set my ISO manually, but most cameras make you faff about holding down a button while twiddling an unmarked dial while squinting at a tiny lcd screen.
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Whilst is love a camera with proper dials, come on Canon, catch up!
I can change ISO without taking my eye from the vf, which seems fundamental to me as an option.
 
boliston said:
It's a pity camera manufacturers don't have a dedicated ISO dial with proper markings and click stops for 100/200/400/1600/3200/6400 etc - I'd probably then set my ISO manually, but most cameras make you faff about holding down a button while twiddling an unmarked dial while squinting at a tiny lcd screen.
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There is nothing hard about setting the ISO. One might even argue that it's easier then the method you describe because you can do all of it while never removing your eye from the view finder . There is no tiny LCD to look at either . The ISO shows up right in the view finder as well. Hints you never have to remove your eye.
 
shaylou said:
It seems that I'm the only one that has come across the camera picking the wrong ISO while shooting.
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LOL! No, it happens to everyone... but you can get similar "misses" in A(Av)/S(Tv) and even in Manual...
I think it all comes down to "time" and "priorities." For each situation and individual they are different...and that's probably a good thing.
 
while it's handy to have basic shutter/aperture/iso displayed in the viewfinder i would prefer not to have to look through the viewfinder to make these basic adjustments - one reason i always try and avoid "gelded" lenses without an aperture ring!
 
boliston said:
while it's handy to have basic shutter/aperture/iso displayed in the viewfinder i would prefer not to have to look through the viewfinder to make these basic adjustments - one reason i always try and avoid "gelded" lenses without an aperture ring!
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I can only speak about Canon but you have the option to see what you are adjusting either through the viewfinder or back led or even on the top display menu. There are 3 different places to see the adjustments. Canon tried to please even the pickiest photographers.

I'm assuming you are not shooting Canon.
 
Auto ISO is a tool that can be used or not, I shoot Nikon and have it turned on the majority of the time. For what I shoot it works well.
 
boliston said:
while it's handy to have basic shutter/aperture/iso displayed in the viewfinder i would prefer not to have to look through the viewfinder to make these basic adjustments - one reason i always try and avoid "gelded" lenses without an aperture ring!
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You're clearly not shooting Canon then, EF lenses don't have aperture rings, nor is there a need for one. When I picked up my first Canon AF camera I thought it was odd, but it's far from it.
 
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