Is (IS) necesary?!

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lucky_13

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Hi all i want to know if IS is necessary with fast shutter speeds such as 1/250 or above @ lets say 200mm or so. OR WHAT IS THE MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED I CAN GET AWAY WITH WITHOUT USING IS @ A 200mm FOCAL LENGTH IN LOW LIGHT?
I'm asking these questions because i want to decide on an IS or non IS version of a 70-200, i would like a fast aperture of f/2.8 but i would settle for f/4
money is always an issue. i would like to use the lens to replace my no longer with me 55-250, i want something opticaly superior, IQ, sharpness,low light, my hyperactive children running around the parks. i want something that can make the subject stand out from the background. I've narrowed it down to these lenses.
Tamron 70-200 f2.8 (Sharp wide open but slow AF) £495 @ amazon
Sigma 70-200 f2.8 macro hsm II (not as sharp as the tammy wide open but better AF) £595 @ amazon
Canon 70-200 f4 L IS USM (very sharp from wide open and has IS but twice the price of the tamron) £825 @ flashcamera
Failing to make a decision i would possibly get a prime like the Canon 50 F/1.4 but a zoom would be more useful.
 
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well 1/250 is the minimum for a 200mm lens without IS. If your subject is stationary you shouldn't have an issue. If your moving when taking that shot then you may get motion blur IS will help with that. Moving kids at 250 maybe a problem fast glass will help you get a faster shutter speed

Is helps when you shake fast glass helps to increase shutter speed
 
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In your situation go faster glass over IS as you need the higher shutter speed to get rid of the blur of them moving. It doesn't matter if you can shoot in 3 or 4 stops less light if as your shutter will probbaly be down to 1/30s or something similar and that's not good. If you wanted to shoot still subjects then IS can really help.
 
here is the definition by Canon and reasoning; "Camera shake is a major cause of blurred images, especially with handheld photography or in low light situations where a slow shutter speed is required.

Canon's Image Stabilizer (IS) technology uses a lens shift-type system to detect and correct slight camera shakes. Pressing the shutter button halfway releases the lock on the Image Stabilizer system. Minute gyro sensors detect lens vibrations caused by hand shake and send a signal to a microcomputer, which controls an IS lens group that compensates for the pitch and yaw (movement along the horizontal and vertical axis of the camera) of the lens. To ensure that intentional panning and tilting isn’t mistaken for camera shake, some telephoto and tele-zoom lenses have IS Mode 2. This mode detects if movement in a certain direction occurs for longer than a preset time and switches off the Image Stabilizer in that direction.

EF lenses with IS technology enable steady shooting at up to four stops lower than is possible with conventional lenses, making them ideal for situations where the use of flash is not permitted or desired."

If your subject is moving or your camera is on a tripod it won't help. Some IS on some lenses will help with panning.
 
I really can't fathom why all manufacturers can't fit IS as standard to their bodies. If Sony and Pentax can do it? It's great having IS with any lens attached...including old manual glass :)
 
antihero said:
I really can't fathom why all manufacturers can't fit IS as standard to their bodies. If Sony and Pentax can do it? It's great having IS with any lens attached...including old manual glass :)
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Simple..........

.....they make more money!
 
IS helps give you better results, I would choose it on a lens but it all depends on what you are doing what you are shooting, handheld or tripod.

Tripod you don't need to spend the cash on IS
 
There was a time when IS did not exist and there were plenty of sharp photos, though IS has helped me.

The general guide for minimum shutter speed to prevent shake is 1/focal length of the lens - so a 200mm lens needs 1/200s

I have also read that the above answer should be multiplied by the crop factor.

So a crop factor of 1.5 would need 1/300s on a 200mm lens. However, this is only a guide and as has been suggested if your subject is moving IS is not going to help.

A good point about IS in the camera body. It gives simpler and, I think, cheaper lenses and really like the idea I have a 30 year old Sigma zoom that is image stabilised.

Dave
 
As far as I was aware, in-body IS meant that your viewfinder was not stabilised. A bit of a problem in some circumstances.
 
gnirtS said:
Despite the claims of 4 stops my canon IS lenses buy me roughly 2 stops. Still a useful saving but far from the claimed 4 !

(although i dont have vastly expensive L lenses to test)
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I've got the v1 70-200mm f2.8 L IS and am happy to shoot at 1/20s which is over 3 stops below what would be the 'normal' guide 1/200s. With my 24-105m f4 L I'm happy at 1/8s when pushed.

aeronic said:
As far as I was aware, in-body IS meant that your viewfinder was not stabilised. A bit of a problem in some circumstances.
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I used to have a Konica Minolta 5D which had in body IS, it worked pretty well considering how old that dSLR was, I liked having IS on all lenses but as mentioned it only take effect when you shoot and not in the viewfinder. Why does that matter you might wonder, when I'm trying to get critical focus with a long lens in low light it really does help to have things steady to keep the focus point where I want it.

Again, none of this will help with most sports, it is only panning for motorsports that it can be useful.
 
It isn't necessary, but it is very helpful...

There are times when having IS on a lens has made the shot possible (when you don't have / can't take / use monopod / tripod / flash) for me.

Then there is the cost, the IS can add a significant amount of money to a lens, which then makes the decision harder - eg the Canon 70-200F4 L -> the IS version is almost double the price.

My FIL has a Sony body which has IS in built and do feel a bit miffed at times, as he has it available to any of his lenses...

From the 3 lenses you have listed, I would ask do you want IS or F2.8, the Canon F4 non IS is £475 from Ian (Flashcamera) so is cheaper than the Tamron and Sigma - possibly another option ?
 
I was wondering exactly the same thing, this has been a really useful thread thanks to all the contributors.
 
gnirtS said:
Despite the claims of 4 stops my canon IS lenses buy me roughly 2 stops. Still a useful saving but far from the claimed 4 !

(although i dont have vastly expensive L lenses to test)
Click to expand...

not sure about your lenses but with my 15-85 @ 85mm with IS on i can shoot @ 1/5 of a sec and get a shot as crisp as i can @ 1/250 of a sec.
 
Creativesnaps said:
IS helps give you better results, I would choose it on a lens but it all depends on what you are doing what you are shooting, handheld or tripod.

Tripod you don't need to spend the cash on IS
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I only shoot hand held, and only use a tripod when doing long exposures @ night time.
 
andyred said:
It isn't necessary, but it is very helpful...

There are times when having IS on a lens has made the shot possible (when you don't have / can't take / use monopod / tripod / flash) for me.

Then there is the cost, the IS can add a significant amount of money to a lens, which then makes the decision harder - eg the Canon 70-200F4 L -> the IS version is almost double the price.

My FIL has a Sony body which has IS in built and do feel a bit miffed at times, as he has it available to any of his lenses...

From the 3 lenses you have listed, I would ask do you want IS or F2.8, the Canon F4 non IS is £475 from Ian (Flashcamera) so is cheaper than the Tamron and Sigma - possibly another option ?
Click to expand...
I would like IS on an f/2.8 lens too but only mentioned the f/2.8 without IS as it is f/2.8 for the amount of light i can get through the lens and the shallower DOF so if i was to go to f/4 that would deffinetly have to be IS.
 
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