Indoor Karting - Flash etiquette & lens advice?

beercan

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Steve
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Hi all,

I have the opportunity to shoot some indoor Karting next week.
The track is in a large warehouse type unit which is quite dusty so there's a slight problem...

However the main issue is due to how dark it is in there and kart speed, I'm thinking flash may be essential for sharp shots. I'm concerned about putting off the racers though, so I'm wondering what etiquette says about flash in a scenario like this? I assume it's a no-no?

I have the Nikon 18-55 kit lens and 28-105 3.5-4.5 which I don't think will cut it, but I'm thinking of picking up the 50mm f1.8 on Monday. Part of my decision for maybe buying it will be based on if it's going to make much difference for something like this type of indoor non-flash work?

Any advice on either etiquette, or whether the 50mm prime will help would be appreciated.

Thanks:thumbs:
 
Best ask at the reception desk.
 
Sorry should have mentioned, the organisers themselves are happy for me to snap away. Just wondering about the racers (mixed group, almost 80 people so can't go round asking everyone...)
 
I wouldn't imagine they will mind, or perhaps even notice. They will be looking at the track and the other karts, not your flash bulb.
 
Thinking of my experience of bike track days (as a rider) I'd say it depends on your position at the track side rather than the flash.

If you're right in their eyeline as they turn in it'll be distracting for the drivers. If you position yourself out of the way a bit you'll be fine and they won't get annoyed.

Sounds a fun day out. :)
 
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Thinking of my experience of bike track days (as a rider) I'd say it depends on your position at the track side rather than the flash.

If you're right in their eyeline as they turn in it'll be distracting for the drivers. If you position yourself out of the way a bit you'll be fine and they won't get annoyed.

Sounds a fun day out. :)

What he said, I've had rally photographers jump out in front of me wit ha nice direct flash right in my eyes, that is pretty offensive to me. However the folks stood up on the hwalls hedges etc being above eyeline and looking down, you just see that there's flashes going on but because I'm not looking directly at them they don't really have much effect on me.

Are they wearing helmets in karting? that'll help as you'd really need to be stood right in front of them to distract them then.
 
Thanks, yeah it'll be full face helmets all round.
 
Unless you blast it straight into their faces from close range, they won't even notice.

This shot was outdoors, but it was getting dark and the exposure was about 1/15sec or 1/30sec as I recall - which is crazy long, especially with a 200mm lens. The slow-sync flash saved the day by freezing the subject against a nice blurred background, and second curtain sync is good for this as it puts the subject blur behind the direction of movement. Shoot plenty because this stuff is unpredictable and your hit rate could be low.

To get perfect colour balance, you would need to gel the flash to match the indoor lights, but I wouldn't worry about it unless you're looking for perfection. Just set balance for the flash and let the background do its thing. Avoid under exposure at all costs because there's lots of black stuff about that needs lifting to see any detail - track, tyre barriers, karts, suits. Don't be afraid to push the ISO.

Edit: PhotoBucket seems to have gone mad with the red suit :eek:

IMG_6125-1.jpg
 
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I've done a fair bit of indoor karting shooting and driving. I use my 50mm f1.4 and ask if I can get trackside, which usually isn't a problem. Just don't get in the way, watch what you are doing. If they think you might be a danger they'll pull you out. Best place is usually around the pits so you can get start line and pit action.

50mm f1.4 usually gives me 1/100th at iso1600, or f1.8-f2.2 gives me around 1/100th at iso 3200. Don't use flash if you're at the same level as it blinds the drivers. The karts are reasonably slow that 1/100th should do as a shutter speed, but you can always pan.

Remember that at low f numbers you have a tiny depth of field.
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Thank you both for the great tips. Very helpful. :)
 
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