Pretty good.
Some tips on Aperture/shutterspeed/ISO (Don't know how much you already know so excuse me if I say something you're aware of)
Aperture - The size of the lens opening (The cameras equivilant of a humans iris) It's measured by the 'f numbers' on your lens (e.g. f2.8 - f11) The bigger the 'f' number the smaller the opening. With a smaller F number (larger opening) you get a better DOF and the background blurs out a bit. For things like Landscapes you'll want a smaller aperture (F number) to get more things in focus.
ISO - How sensitive the image sensor is to light. The higher the ISO the more sensitive the camera is to light. But ofcourse you get more intereference and noise in your image.
Shutter speed- How long the shutter is open, collecting light (measured in seconds). With a longer shutter speed you can make some very interesting effects (Blurring light/motion).
Good to use when wanting to capture motion in your picture, car lights on a road etc.
Use quick SS when wanting to 'freeze' your subject. In fast paced sports etc.
When changing Aperture and shutter speed, you need to make sure you do it right.
If you've got a large f number, and a fast shutter speed. Then ofcourse no light or not enough light will get in and you'll have a black image. Same for the opposite ofcourse. Small f number pluss longer SS = white image.
So you need a good balance, obviously you can change them to an extent to get the right effect you want. Auto mode may get confused if you're taking a picture of a really bright sky but a not very well lit object.
Try your best to keep the camera on ISO 100.
A good idea for an image, which I've wanted to do. Is take a picture of the London Eye (at night) on your longest shutter speed possible, I reckon you'd get a pretty cool effect from the movement
Hope you learned something new
Edit: Just realised I wrote nose instead of noise :s