I'm lost :(

MarkyB

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Hey all!

Sorry to bother you with this but a few months back i bought a canon 1000D and have attempted to learn what i can about manual modes and have failed!
I've been using auto modes recently and can't improve my shots by using manual, what am i doing wrong?

I know the imformation i'm giving is a bit vague but i just can't explain and i don't want to give up and stick with auto modes because i want these beautiful shots i see on this forum everyday :)

Anyway any information would be fantastic!
Thanks :)
 
i suggest you buy a canon 1000d manual off Amazon

a good read may help you.........:thumbs:
 
Manual mode is great wen you get into it and are totally fluent with your camera and what the settings do but there's no harm in using something like Av.

I shoot probably 90 per cent of my magazine work in AV for the simple reason that for the work i do I want one constant and that is a controlled depth of field (DoF) via the aperture. I set the ISO by what the light will give me in terms of hand-holdable shutter speeds (say 1/60th and faster) and decent apertures for landscape/scenic shots (say f/8).

I tend to stay away from full auto (P) because it changes both the aperture AND shutter speed so there's not on contatnt value in place.

I rarely shoot in Tv, but that's because what I'm shooting (angling) isn't usually moving fast enough that the shutter speed is the overriding factor. I use Tv for casting shots only.

I use manual when using off-camera flash with non-TTL triggers, and in the studio.

What I would suggest though would be to get into the habit of setting your ISO manually, if you don't already do that. Auto ISO can get you out of sticky situations but I like to be in control of what my ISO is because I'm always mindful of what noise levels will be when I put the images through lightroom.
 
Hi, John's right and as much as it bored me (because it's very dry), I read my manual and it did help me.

There's plenty of videos on Youtube and other resources out there.

Search, review and experiment.

Cheers.
 
Hi

I flicked through the manual in the beginning, but I was none the wiser by the end as I didn't know what was going on at any level.

I would advise to read the manual to understand how the camera works, what buttons do what etc as this is specific to your camera.

I wouldn't use it for example to try and understand camera modes and exposures at this moment. I found google/youtube/talk photography far more helpful as the concepts are universal and could be described better in a more digestable form from any proficient user.

Are there specific issues with your shots? Too dark/bright/blurred/out of focus etc?
 
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First off you need to understand the link between shutter speed, aperture, and the third component ISO. So say for example 1/100 f11 ISO 200, you could use any of these
1/800 f11 ISO 1600, 1/50 f11 ISO100, 1/400 f5.6 ISO 200 which would give the same exposure. If totally manual the needle in the viewfinder shows whether you are over or under exposed on the scale.

This also all depends on metering or what the camera thinks it is seeing in regards to light levels. On a basic level using Evaluative it tries to get an overall 18% grey, so if it's looking at a particulalrly bright scene like snow it is going to think hey there's too much light here I need to reduce the exposure, which would result in the snow being underexposed and looking grey because of what the camera perceived. Similarly a black car against a dark green wall is going to result in the meter trying to overexpose, so you need to think about what the camera is seeing as regards to light levels.
 
Get yourself a copy of brian petersons Understanding Exposure. Read through it. Then read it again. Then read it and do the examples with your camera as you go. You will have a much better idea of what your camera can do.
 
Ken and Lawrie, that is the best advice.
You have to learn the basics first, and some of us, after thirty years are still learning!
 
Get yourself a copy of brian petersons Understanding Exposure. Read through it. Then read it again. Then read it and do the examples with your camera as you go. You will have a much better idea of what your camera can do.

+1 on this..

It might not be the best book it could be, but it does cover the basics of exposure, and once you've an understanding of ISO, aperture and shutter speed it will all fall into place.
 
Hey again all i have another question and thought i'd ask here instead of opening a new thread.
As i said i currently have a 1000D with a kit lens and have been told that it was a bad choice and shouldn't have bought that one etc etc but too be honest at the moment i can't afford to purchase anything too expensive as me and my wife have just had our first baba :)
Anyway i've been looking at otherways i can get creative with my photography and get improved pics. I've purchased a lens hood for my camera as i've read about it reduces flare which has got to be good right?

Also when i was looking on Ebay there was attachments for my lens that lets you zoom a little closer i believe there was a X2, X4, X8 and a X10 and you can do any combination. I really liked the look of the example pictures where you're able to really get full detail in close ups? What i'm wondering though, is this just a cheap gimmick or are they a genuine tool used in photography?

Thanks and sorry once again for the silly questions :)
 
Also when i was looking on Ebay there was attachments for my lens that lets you zoom a little closer i believe there was a X2, X4, X8 and a X10 and you can do any combination. I really liked the look of the example pictures where you're able to really get full detail in close ups? What i'm wondering though, is this just a cheap gimmick or are they a genuine tool used in photography?

Thanks and sorry once again for the silly questions :)

The cheap ones are pretty nasty, but the Raynox 250 is often recommended as a cheap way to get started in macro photography:

http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcr250/indexdcr250eg.htm
 
A lens hood does help but that probably won't help your shots unless yupi are always shooting into the light.

Tips above are good.

I'd suggest you also read about COMPOSITION . Even a poorly exposed image can generally be rescued so long as the underlying image is well composed.

Look up the RULE OF THIRDS - A very good rule that helps you see where to place subjects in the frame.

EXPOSURE - Takes a little getting used to but once you learn about stops of light you'll better grasp what to do.

SEEING THE LIGHT - Photograhy is all about Light. Read up on natural lighting or if you want to use flash then that is a whole new subject that can take some time to learn.

Photography is not as simple as pointing and clicking I'm afraid.
 
Yeah, steer clear of the ebay jobbies. They arent up to much.
One of the best things you could do if you wanted to get a new toy, but not spend the earth is get the Canon 50mm f/1.8. This will give you a great low light portrait lens for your baby, will give you the chance to really experiment with Depth of Field and aperture control, and you could also buy a reverse mount to turn it into a proper 1:1 macro lens (or near enough) The whole set up will cost under £100.
 
Yes the 50 f1.8 is some good advice as a starter lens for low light.
 
Some good advice in this thread, I'd like to add that another way to try and get to grips with manual settings is to shoot a picture in Auto, review it on the screen and see what values the camera used. Pick one of those values (shutter or aperture are probably better than ISO) change it a bit and take another shot, did it make the picture better or worse?

A couple of Christmases ago I was taking some shots in auto with the aid of a flash and a friend's pink jumper was coming out bright red. I took note of the settings, replicated in manual mode and changed the WB to flash..... hey presto, the jumper then showed up as pink :)
 
I would learn to use the kit you have at the moment before fretting about buying more. Despite the so called shortcomings of kit lenses they can produce good shots. The original 18-55 non IS (considered awful) that came with my 350D produced this, you can even see the hairs on it's chin... do butterflys have chins :thinking:.

http://SPAM/c3whur/Img_3049c.jpg
 
All good advice so far...

My personal approach was to buy a few magazines. The internet's great but there's something to be said for holding a magazine, looking at a great picture with all the info about shutter speed etc and getting advice on why it's good, bad etc......I picked loads up from that in a couple of months (especially if there's a particular issue with a beginners guide in).

Try and get your head around composition first. The whole rule of thirds thing, sounds really simple but subtle differences in the way you set a picture up can make the difference, whether it's with a phone camera or a £5k SLR (all the gear but no idea doesn't make a decent picture).

Once you can compose a shot well, then you're into Aperture, Shutter Speed & ISO....that's when you go from a decent shot to a stunning shot.

I too use Av for probably 80% of my stuff. Manual Mode is great in particular circumstances but for most things, you can get great pictures without having to get ALL of the settings right yourself....(even Auto ISO is fine for most things when you're starting off).
 
MarkyB said:
Hey again all i have another question and thought i'd ask here instead of opening a new thread.
As i said i currently have a 1000D with a kit lens and have been told that it was a bad choice and shouldn't have bought that one etc etc but too be honest at the moment i can't afford to purchase anything too expensive as me and my wife have just had our first baba :))

The 1000d isn't necessarily a bad choice. I had one before my 7d and found it very good at learning on as it's not overcomplicated like the higher end units.

Follow the excellent tips on this thread and learn how to get the best out of your camera. After all if you can't get it right on the 1000d then a new camera isn't going to change the situation.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
 
I've been using auto modes recently and can't improve my shots by using manual, what am i doing wrong?

As nobody seems to ahve picked this up.. lets make somehting perfectly clear..

Using manual mode does not produce better pictures than using any other mode.

Manual mode gives you more control if an auto mode is getting it wrong or likely to.. shooting into the sun for example

A shot taken on auto mode will be the same as a shot taken on manual mode if it's the same exposure on both.
 
A friend recently got their first SLR and wanted to know more about it all, so I wrote the below. Its probably horrendously non technical and is simplified, but it should give you an idea of the basics.

Rather than get tied up in tech speak, an image is defined by light, a camera is just a device that records light, as luck would have it this (sometimes!) creates a nice picture!

Ok, so how does it take a picture ?
Well, in the camera itself (known as the "body") you have a shutter. this is basically a flap that opens, when it opens the sensor inside is obviously exposed to light - the sensor "sees" the light and records it, voila, a picture!
In the lens there is a hole, this hole is the only way light can get through the lens to the body.

Ok, so if we want to control the light that the sensor "sees" we have two options:
Adjust how long the shutter is open for, or make the hole bigger or smaller.

The first is shutter speed, the second is aperture.
Shutter speed is measured in time, usually fractions of a second like 1/200th.
Aperture is measured in f stops. The f stop number is actually a calculation. To find the f stop take the focal length, divide it by the diameter of the hole in our lens, the result is your f stop. So, lets say we have a 50mm lens (this is the focal length) and the diameter of the hole is 25mm thats f2. So from this we now know that low numbers = big hole, high numbers = small hole.

The final part of the exposure trinagle is ISO. This is how sensitive the sensor is to light, the more sensitive the higher the number.

The setting of each of these three things can affect the exposure, but each of them have side effects...

If you make the shutter speed too long you won't be able ot hold the camera still, this has the effect of blurring the picture. Also, in some cases if you have a long shutter time you may pick up movement that isn't desirable, for example imagine taking a picture of a horse in a forest. If we had a slow shutter speed (i.e. shutter is open for a long time) the horse may decide to wander off, this movement will be picked up in the picture and ruin it.
If we want to convey a sense of speed in a picture we might actually pick a slow shutter speed so that a little bit of movement can be seen. A tpyical example of this is taking pictures of cars or bikes - if we shoot at 1/500 the shutter isn't open for long enough to "see" the wheels turning, as a result its like a freeze frame and the vehicle looks like its stationary - not the effect we wanted.

Changing the aperture has an effect on something called depth of field, wikipedia has a decent article on it here : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field - in summary DoF controls what is in focus in your picture - sometimes you see a picture of a person (for example) where they are in sharp ofcus, but the background is fuzzy or obscured ? thats what we would call a shallow depth of field. A wide aperture (big hole, small f number) can cause this. In some cases a shallow DoF is exactly what we want, at other times we definitely don't want one - landscape photography for example rarely uses a shallow DoF, typically it has a wide field of view (lots of stuff in the picture) and we want to see all of it. Conversely if you want to pick out a subject amongst others using a shallow DoF is definitely what you want to do.
If we go too far and pick a narrow aperture (high number, small hole) we'll make the shutter speed too long..

Changing the ISO setting on a digital camera has one big drawback - noise. Not literally ! noise in this sense is when a picture looks grainy, which obviously spoils the overall effect. I always see ISO as the last resort for this reason. Then again, if you want to create a gritty, dirty looking image its perfect! especially for black and white pictures.

So, its a balancing act. Fortunately these days cameras are clever enough to help us do this stuff. Commonly photographers will use a mode called "aperture priority". This basically means that the photographer sets the aperture they wish to use and the camera will work out the shutter speed and ISO. Many will go one step further and set the ISO as well, leaving the camera to just deal with the shutter speed.

I found it easier to understand the relationship between these things by setting the ISO rather than leaving it on "Auto", this meant that I could see what effect changing the aperture had on the shutter speed without the camera altering the ISO and confusing matters.
 
Thank you for the advice! I've been playing around with the aperture priority and had some great results :)
The problem i was having with auto shots is that it was constantly insisting to you the flash which i really hate flash.

Thanks for the advice all
 
Marky - the flash thing is, in my view, the main failing of the auto mode.

If you're out on a nice sunny day etc with good light, Auto will take great pictures. If you've not got those conditions (like you're indoor) then it'll resort to trying to create the light with the flash rather than using the other elements of the camera.

In that situation, you just end up with a bright light shining on whatever's straight in front of the camera and largely crap pictures.

Av gives you the control to open the aperture up and take pictures in less than optimum light....

Direct flash is generally completely hopeless (although can help if you've got a sunny day casting shadows on a face, for example)..so anything you can do to avoid using that's a winner in my eyes.

Glad you're getting some decent pictures with Av. It'll make you think more as well, which then prompts you to look at a Manual when even Av doesn't cut it...
 
Thank you for the advice! I've been playing around with the aperture priority and had some great results :)
The problem i was having with auto shots is that it was constantly insisting to you the flash which i really hate flash.

Thanks for the advice all

your best bet is to keep it in AV mode, thats what i do with mine unless im taknig a picture i know wont run off/wilt in the 3 hours itll take me to take th epicture in manual...

the best thing i ever bought for my 1000d was the 430exII flash, gets brilliant results all the time now, rahter than the rubbish built in flash that goes off whenever it wants to and is allways too bright for the subject...
 
As nobody seems to ahve picked this up.. lets make somehting perfectly clear..

Using manual mode does not produce better pictures than using any other mode.

Manual mode gives you more control if an auto mode is getting it wrong or likely to.. shooting into the sun for example

A shot taken on auto mode will be the same as a shot taken on manual mode if it's the same exposure on both.

Quoted for the best advice so far on the thread


Marky - the flash thing is, in my view, the main failing of the auto mode.

If you're out on a nice sunny day etc with good light, Auto will take great pictures. If you've not got those conditions (like you're indoor) then it'll resort to trying to create the light with the flash rather than using the other elements of the camera.

In that situation, you just end up with a bright light shining on whatever's straight in front of the camera and largely crap pictures.

Av gives you the control to open the aperture up and take pictures in less than optimum light....

Direct flash is generally completely hopeless (although can help if you've got a sunny day casting shadows on a face, for example)..so anything you can do to avoid using that's a winner in my eyes.

Glad you're getting some decent pictures with Av. It'll make you think more as well, which then prompts you to look at a Manual when even Av doesn't cut it...

Although I generally agree with what you are saying, the time I always put the flash gun on the camera is when the sun is out, or I am out wih the family.

To the OP if you want an excellent book to read, get Basic Photography by Michael Langford, IMHO it is way better than Understanding Exposure, which is, again IMHO vastly overated. As others have said use AV most of the time, learn the corolation(sp) between ISO shutter speed and aperture, these are your building blocks along with composition that every great photo you see on here or anywhere else are built with. HTH, good luck and most of all have fun.
 
Lots of good advice above. Significantly, most would agree that even after many years' experience there is still much to be learnt so the OP should not be disheartened at this stage.

My best advice to the OP is to practice, practice, practice...

When I bought my first DSLR I never went to the Auto mode but forced myself to learn much of what is stated above. For 100% of my shooting now I use manual or Av. Ok, I shot hundreds of rubbish images (and if my siskin phots from this morning are to go by I still do !) but sometimes I get it right.

Not saying Auto is useless but to some extent you may as well get a P&S as use full-time Auto. Plus, it is fun to experiment with shutter speeds v iso v aperture, composition etc...

Wishing the OP all the best in this wonderful pastime.
 
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