So this film you used, you should set your camera to ISO/ASA 3200, and you have set yours to 1600, is that correct? And then presumably you have... deliberately underexposed the shot - have I got that right, or is it the other way around? Baby steps here ha ha!! Now I feel like going back on eBay again, oh dear...
[My understanding!]
Film has a box speed (what it says on the box) but mostly you can get around it by messing with the developer and developing times. So for every combination of film (at any given ISO) there is a development time to compensate.
There is a website called the "Massive Dev Chart" (which also has an app) which gives times for almost any combination of film , developer and ISO.
Pushing film is when you under-expose and over-develop, effectively "raising" the ISO. I shoot HP5 Plus (400 box speed) at 800 and 1600 regularly, then just develop for a bit longer. With the developer I use (Ilford DD-X), I can push HP5 to 1600 quite easily.
Pulling film is where you over-expose and under develop - effectively "lowering" the ISO. That's kinda what happened in my entry above
but, when you read Kodak's datasheet on P3200, it states "P3200 is effectively an EI 1000 film". So what they are saying is that P3200 is "designed" to be pushed (up to 3200) but it's native ISO is 1000. Putting "3200" on the box was (and still is!) confusing to me.
None of this matters though, as long as you compensate the development for whatever ISO you rated the film at in the camera.
The reason I'm using P3200 is that I just want to use it up and get it gone. At ISO 1600, HP5 is a much better solution and if I need ISO 3200, I'd shoot Ilford Delta 3200 (which is designed for ISO 3200 and looks far better than P3200 IMO. The grain is just too heavy with the Kodak film - even at ISO 1600)
My "go-to" films will often depend on available light.
ISO 80 : Ilford Ortho Plus. Lovely & clean but needs lots of light
ISO 100 : Ilford Delta 100. As above but deals with reds differently. My main B&W portrait film (with studio lights) or Landscape (with a tripod).
ISO 400 or 800 : HP5+ or Kodak Tri-X (pushed for 800). I think Tri-X has a "grittier" look to it so I will choose depending on subject matter
ISO 1600 : HP5+ or Tri-X (pushed to 1600). Tri-X starts to get quite gritty & contrasty at this level of pushing.
ISO 3200 : HP5+ or Ilford Delta 3200. Ilford Delta 3200 definitely gives better results, but it's more expensive.
For the 52, I've often gone with "what I've got in a camera", or "what's cheap" if I'm shooting a whole roll on one theme.
Apologies for the massively over-informational reply!