I started a new hobby today! (Guitar)

GeeJay57 said:
Looks like the G and B string saddles need a tweak to level them up a bit. If you've not had a set-up done, could be very worthwhile. There are some goo books out there. One I'd recommend is..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Complete-Guitarist-Richard-Chapman/dp/1405301899

I have the earlier edition and learned a lot, some of it was useful too :)
Click to expand...

Bought the book, also got some new strings on the way, I feel that they could do with a freshen up. It is a new guitar but a 2011 model so been in the store for a couple of years with stock factory strings.

Might take it to a local guitar tech to get it check out too and change the strings for me.
 
Raymond Lin said:
Bought the book, also got some new strings on the way, I feel that they could do with a freshen up. It is a new guitar but a 2011 model so been in the store for a couple of years with stock factory strings.

Might take it to a local guitar tech to get it check out too and change the strings for me.
Click to expand...

Cool. Ask him if he'll show you how to change the strings. You will need a beer mat or two, some decent side cutters unless you prefer untrimmed, a digital tuner and a bit of patience. If it's been hanging in the store, might be worth using a little lemon oil on the fingerboard before putting the strings back on. All this is covered in the book.
 
The winder can be useful when removing strings, though less so when putting fresh ones on. Normal small wire cutters are fine for cutting strings down. Never ever leave the factory strings on a guitar, since they get damaged by playing without cleaning down afterward, and also can get dented or kinked through handling & shipping: it's often worth negotiating a free pack of your favourite brand when you buy a new instrument.

If you have a personal recommendation for a set up then that's good. Some techs are great, and some can make a guitar unusable - a Heritage H150 I bought used in the US had just had a 'pro tech' set up before it was shipped, and the intonation was so far out it could never have been played without sounding horrid. Setting up is generally easy, though fretwork requires a bit more care. It really is worth learning to do it yourself, because it will let you optimise the guitar for your preferences instead of trying to explain to someone, then wishing it was a bit different later on.
 
With my limited skills I am not sure what to ask for, except easy to play, with a relatively low action.

What else do people say?
 
Raymond Lin said:
With my limited skills I am not sure what to ask for, except easy to play, with a relatively low action.

What else do people say?
Click to expand...

When you have your copy of the book in your hand, you should find some good pointers for setting up and changing strings. There are a number of tweaks that can be done, just be careful to avoid going anywhere near the guitar with a nut file and don't mess about with the truss rod other than for the odd tweak.
 
Raymond Lin said:
HAha, i will not be filing anything and leave that trust rod cover, covered. :)
Click to expand...

A little tweak either way to adjust neck relief is not difficult, just don't over do it.... Cheers!
 
Okay, i think i have what is known as "fret buzz"?

Low E string, finger on first fret, it could be me but it buzz sometimes when you hit it, not all the time, mostly when i hit it hard, I take it you can raise the string by like a micro or something with the screws at the bottom?

Or the strings just needs changing I think !

edit, just tried every note on the fretboard, just that 1 single one, also checked intonation with a tuner which is spot on.

If only I have that allen key (which is in the post), then I can turn that screw on the bridge down a quarter turn or something which should fix it.
 
Last edited:
Raymond Lin said:
Okay, i think i have what is known as "fret buzz"?

Low E string, finger on first fret, it could be me but it buzz sometimes when you hit it, not all the time, mostly when i hit it hard, I take it you can raise the string by like a micro or something with the screws at the bottom?

Or the strings just needs changing I think !

edit, just tried every note on the fretboard, just that 1 single one, also checked intonation with a tuner which is spot on.

If only I have that allen key (which is in the post), then I can turn that screw on the bridge down a quarter turn or something which should fix it.
Click to expand...

OK, so it sounds like you've already discovered a possible preference for slightly higher, buzz-free action. This is EXACTLY the kind of thing you'd ask for in a set up - some guys are happy for a little buzz in exchange for the strings being as low as possible, while others (me included) are not.

To raise the action - to stop the buzz - you will need to raise the saddle supporting the low E string a little until it stops buzzing - if you want to do this then slacken the string before you raise the saddle, then re-tune it afterward to prevent it being over-tensions & damaged by the higher saddle. HOWEVER. Because it's just the first fret that buzzes it could be that the nut is cut a little too deep, and if this is the case then you should definitely discuss it with the vendor, because it may need a replacement nut. But it all depends on how bad the buzz is - I can *make* my E string buzz if I hit it hard enough, but that's not a problem.
 
The buzz isn't too bad, I only noticed it just now because I was playing a little riff that had to use that 1st fret over and over.

As for does it fret any higher up the fret board, just checked again, i guess it does buzz a little all the way down to the 8th fret but like i said, only when hit hard enough.

I guess I could raise the bridge when the allen keys arrives tomorrow to see if i can fix it in the meantime.
 
BTW you can get a good set of mini-allen keys (useful for fitting bridge saddles) from Homebase or Maplin for £3.99 for the Rolson set in a cylindrical yellow container. They also have bits that fit apple computers. :)
 
The typical rule is that buzzing above ~10th fret should be fixed by altering the bridge
Buzzing lower down the neck should be fixed by adjusting the nut or truss rod.
 
I don't think I am going to do anything until a new set of strings has been put in, the buzz is slight only on 1 string and it may be gone with a new set of strings altogether.
 
Haha, yes, and you know what, before I noticed that, I was playing on my GS mini last night, doing scales practice and then thought I'll try that on the PRS.

OMG, the term "plays like butter" immediately popped into my head. I have no idea what that means but I've heard that before and that is the best description I can come up with. The difference is hard to describe, I mean the GS mini plays lovely as it is but the PRS is just better somehow. The neck just feels right all the way from the top to the bottom, the weight of the guitar is spot on, it feels amazing.
 
It really is great when you find a guitar which just feels "right". :)
Although there's a lot to be said for learning on a guitar which isn't quite as easy to play. I used to advice my pupils to learn the basics on an acoustic first as the setup on an electric will feel easy afterwards, whereas the same isn't true going the other direction. Playing both from the start, as you are, is another good way of making sure you're versatile.
 
If you can find somebody who'll do the job for a good price it's well worth seeing if the frets need levelling. I've yet to buy a guitar that didn't benefit from a level and dress if a low action is desired.
 
New guitar today...

XtVpgk3.jpg


Can you guess what it is?

669OzCk.jpg


0tsy5lh.jpg
 
PRS of some descrption, but I'm not familiar with their models. Looks pretty - hope you enjoy it.
 
PRS McCarty perhaps. Nice, enjoy..

It's not so long ago that Gibson tried to stop PRS making these as they are too much like a Les Paul.....
 
Last edited:
That's a beautiful finish on the new one, although there isn't much cooler than the bird inlays on your tiger one!
 
Seeing it next to your other I'd guess it's a 245 except for the bridge & tailpiece.
 
Because everybody else seems to be pre-occupied with whether a bike is stolen or not, I'll say it here:

Stunning guitar, puts my plain mexican Tele to shame.
 
GeeJay57 said:
PRS McCarty perhaps. Nice, enjoy..

It's not so long ago that Gibson tried to stop PRS making these as they are too much like a Les Paul.....
Click to expand...

It's a Stripped 58, the current model is the SC245. It has 24.5" scale, 57/08 pickups, but everything else is pretty much the same spec as a les Paul, I mean the wires in the pick ups is made by the same machine that used to make wires for Gibson back in 1957! One can argue it is closer to a vintage les Paul than Gibson currently makes, the only difference is the 1/4" scale length.

It's a hell of a guitar for the money, costs less than a Standard.
 
Last edited:
TBH I don't think a PRS SC model is very much like a Les Paul at all, though it's certainly a competitor, but everyone is entitled to their own opinions. :)
 
It's unchambered, solid mahogany body, maple cap, rosewood fretboard, PAFs, 2 piece bridge, 3 way switch, 4 knobs. It's everything like a les Paul.

On the gear page forum, someone played 5 les Paula models and recorded a clip from each. You vote for the best one.

The winner turned out to be a PRS SC245....it won by 2.5x as many votes as the next Les Paul.

Make that what you will!
 
The 245 does sound good, and while it's the most Les-Paul like of all PRSs, it doesn't feel like an LP to play IIRC. Different controls, different neck profile, different tones. It's the one PRS that I've fancied based on how it sounds, though I doubt I'd do it justice.
 
Les Paul have different neck profiles too, PRS has different neck profiles, it's just what you prefer. I tried over half a dozen les Paul's, none of them feel right when it's off the rack, shame really because I am sure they are great. I like the curved back on the PRS which is surprising how much difference it makes. It's thick like a Les Paul but on the light side for an unchambered Les Paul at 8.5lbs, I know Gibson hold back the lighter mahogany for customs LP too but you are paying for over £4k for one of those. This is 1/3rd of one of those.

Plus, I am not too keen on the nitro finish either, it's a little sticky compared to the poly (V12) finish on the PRS.
 
"True perfection has to be imperfect, I know that that sounds foolish but it's true"

;)
 
Raymond Lin said:
Les Paul have different neck profiles too, PRS has different neck profiles, it's just what you prefer. I tried over half a dozen les Paul's, none of them feel right when it's off the rack, shame really because I am sure they are great. I like the curved back on the PRS which is surprising how much difference it makes. It's thick like a Les Paul but on the light side for an unchambered Les Paul at 8.5lbs, I know Gibson hold back the lighter mahogany for customs LP too but you are paying for over £4k for one of those. This is 1/3rd of one of those.

Plus, I am not too keen on the nitro finish either, it's a little sticky compared to the poly (V12) finish on the PRS.
Click to expand...

QED, it doesn't feel like a Les Paul. ;)

My favourite Les Paul is a Tokai 'Japanese market only' '59 replica - has the big, big neck profile, unchambered body (but still only around 8 - 8 1/2lb) and Gibson burstbucker pickups for a very specific feel and sound. When I play it, it shouts back I AM A LES PAUL! And it makes me want to :D

Please don't think I'm knocking PRS guitars in any way, but they're different, for a lot of the reasons you described along with a different philosophy behind the design and a different approach to building.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top