Beginner I am spending too much time deciding! - Please help!

I had a Sony a6000 and Sony a7 and think it was a tossup on different days but overall prefer a slightly larger body than the 2 Sonys I had but of course the A series Sonys are bigger.
I also found on handling the a 5100 it felt better built than the d5500 Itried and bigger
 
I had a Sony a6000 and Sony a7 and think it was a tossup on different days but overall prefer a slightly larger body than the 2 Sonys I had but of course the A series Sonys are bigger.
I also found on handling the a 5100 it felt better built than the d5500 Itried and bigger
Yeah, I tried out an a6000 but it was just uncomfortable, kept scraping/bashing my knuckles on wider lenses.
 
Need to use an AF-S or AF-P.

Don't buy AF unless body has its own motor
 
Read this if you want to learn ALOT lol.

Reading about all of the different lens types and abbreviations might be a bit overwhelming, so we'll try to simplify this as much as possible. You're interested in one of the latest NIKKOR lenses, but aren't sure if it will work with your camera. Well, there's an easy way to know—by checking the abbreviations that make up the name of each NIKKOR lens.

Nikon makes two different types of DSLR camera bodies—those that have a built-in focus motor, and those that don't. The cameras that don't have a focus motor built-in need to use a lens that has a focus motor built-in to it. There are two types of Nikon lenses that have a built-in focus motor: AF-S lenses and AF-P lenses. Lenses that do not have a focus motor incorporated into it are simply called AF NIKKOR lenses.

AF NIKKOR lenses use a mechanical coupling between the lens and the camera body. On several Nikon DSLR camera bodies, the focus motor is in the camera and a series of gears drives the lens' focusing mechanism, which allows the lens to focus.

AF-S NIKKOR lenses feature Nikon’s Silent Wave Motor (SWM). This technology converts “traveling waves” into rotational energy to focus the optics. This enables high-speed autofocusing that's extremely accurate and super quiet.

AF-P lenses use a “Pulse” motor or “Stepping” autofocus motor and are even quieter and smoother to autofocus than an AF-S lens, making these lenses ideal when shooting video with a DSLR.

The DSLR camera bodies that do feature a focus motor can utilize AF and AF-S lenses. Or, in other words, because AF-S NIKKORs have the focus motor built into the lens, they can be used on any current Nikon camera body, whether the body has a focus motor or not, because the lens itself controls the focusing function.

Consumer level Nikon digital SLR cameras are designed without built-in focus motors, which allow them to be smaller and lighter than the larger, more professional models. Consumer DSLRs that do not incorporate a built-in focus motor, therefore need to use an AF-S or AF-P NIKKOR lens to get the full autofocus capabilities from the lens.

But what if you own one of the aforementioned consumer level camera bodies and really want to use an AF lens. You need to know if your camera can accept the lens—and the answer is yes. An AF NIKKOR lens can be used on a consumer camera, with limited functionality. You will have to manually focus the lens, using the focus ring on the lens barrel. The electronic rangefinder, which is visible in the lower left portion of the viewfinder, will confirm that your subject is in focus. Rotate the focus ring on the lens and when it lights up green, the subject is in focus.


AF-P Lenses
The newer AF-P lenses let you set certain settings from the camera’s menu system, such as VR (Vibration Reduction) and the AF/MF mode. Older lenses have switches on the lens barrel for turning VR on and off, as well as switching between manual focus mode and AF mode.

Because the focus mode and VR are set using the camera menus, not every Nikon DSLR is compatible with AF-P lenses, and those that are may need to have their firmware updated so they’ll show the correct menu items.


E-Type NIKKOR Lenses
Select newer NIKKOR lenses incorporate an electromagnetic diaphragm mechanism in the lens barrel to provide highly accurate electronic diaphragm or aperture blade control when using auto exposure during continuous shooting, especially when shooting at high frame rates. This is different from G or D type lenses, in which the diaphragm blades are operated mechanically. Older digital SLR camera bodies as well as film SLRs can not use E type lenses.


Legacy NIKKOR Lenses
One of the great aspects of Nikon's camera systems is that most of the legacy lenses—those that you may have used with your film-based Nikon SLR camera—can be used on your digital SLR camera. There may be some limitations, depending upon exactly which NIKKOR lens you're looking to use with your DSLR, but we'll get into that in a minute.

An AIs lens, the Micro NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 lens is a manual focus lens.
An AIs lens, the Micro NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 lens is a manual focus lens.
AI Lenses
What if you've got older lenses that you used to use with a Nikon film-based SLR camera—well you can use those lenses as long as they were made after 1977. That's when Nikon began manufacturing AI lenses. AI stands for "Automatic Maximum Aperture Indexing" system, which is the mechanical system for coupling the lens to the camera's exposure system.

AI lenses are manual focus, and can be used on any Nikon DSLR with a few exceptions. In general, the higher-end camera bodies will be able to meter through the lens of an AI NIKKOR. The prosumer and consumer level bodies can accept an AI NIKKOR lens, but the exposure will need to be determined manually, using a light meter, not through the lens.

The AIS lens, which came later, allowed for automatic aperture control; which controlled the aperture more precisely.

An AI-P lens is a manual lens that has a CPU (basically a computer) built into it; which is used to transfer metering data from the lens to the camera.

An AF-I lens uses a built-in D/C coreless focus drive motor for speedy autofocus operation and were Nikon's first lenses to offer the now popular M/A focusing mode.

So regardless of the other abbreviations you may see on NIKKOR lenses, certain consumer Nikon DSLR cameras require the use of AF-S lenses for full functionality. The higher-end pro DSLR camera bodies need only an AF lens for autofocus functionality. An AI lens can be used, when focusing manually, on almost all Nikon DSLR cameras, but can only meter through the lens when paired with the higher end DSLR models.

Nikon Ai NIKKOR lens. (r.) A Nikon Ais NIKKOR lens, with lens type signaling pin notch, highlighted in red.
Nikon Ai NIKKOR lens. (r.) A Nikon Ais NIKKOR lens, with lens type signaling pin notch, highlighted in red.
Differences between Autofocus and Manual Focus Lenses
Now that we've gone through a little history of NIKKOR lenses, we'll discuss the differences between autofocus and manual focus NIKKOR lenses.

Nikon currently offers lenses that have autofocus operation and others that offer only manual focus operation. Because you sometimes want to be able to control the focus yourself you can actually manually focus any autofocus NIKKOR lens, simply by setting it to the manual focus mode.

We know there are three series of autofocus lenses: AF NIKKOR, AF-S NIKKOR and AF-P NIKKOR. They can all be used in manual focusing mode.

The AF-S version of the Nikon 24-120mm lens; (r.) the AF version of the Nikon 24-120mm lens.
The AF-S version of the Nikon 24-120mm lens; (r.) the AF version of the Nikon 24-120mm lens.
The AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D lens is an example of a D-Type lens.
The AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D lens is an example of a D-Type lens.
D-Type NIKKOR Lenses
A D-type lens relays subject-to-camera-distance information to Nikon DSLRs that feature 3D Color Matrix Metering (all versions), 3D Matrix Metering, 3D Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash and i-TTL Balanced Fill-Flash. Many D-Type lenses have an aperture control ring and can be used on older Nikon SLR cameras that allow for manual control of the aperture, as well as on DSLRs—especially useful for adjusting aperture while recording D-Movies on higher end models. When used on a DSLR, the aperture control ring needs to be locked at the smallest possible aperture (generally designated in orange), and the aperture control is maintained through the camera's command dial.

G-Type NIKKOR Lenses
A G-type lens does not have an aperture control ring and are intended for use on Nikon DSLRs that allow the lens aperture to be adjusted via the camera's command dial. Because G-type lenses relay subject-to-camera-distance information to the camera, where it is used to help determine ambient and flash exposure, they are also considered to be D-type lenses. The lack of an aperture control ring is perhaps the easiest way that you can tell if a lens is a G-Type NIKKOR or not. [The AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR lens, shown above is an example of a G-Type lens. Note there is no aperture ring on that version of the lens, while there is an aperture ring on the AF version, above right.]


Manual Focus NIKKOR Lenses
Manual focus NIKKOR lenses, on the other hand, don't have the capability to autofocus at all. Manual focus lenses can be used on all current Nikon DSLRs, in the manual focus mode.

With the inclusion of HD video capture in many new Nikon DSLRs, manual prime (or fixed focal length) lenses are experiencing a resurgence in popularity. Manual focus lenses will not use the in-camera metering systems on several DSLRs so make sure to review your instruction manual to understand the compatibility of manual focus NIKKOR lenses and your particular camera. [The Micro NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 lens, which is shown as an example of an Ais lens, is a manual focus lens.]
 
Quick question, with the D5100 which lenses can autofocus, and which can't? Am I right in thinking the ones with a D after the aperture numbers don't, and the ones with a G after the aperture numbers do?

Only lenses with a built in motor. I have a feeling some G (gelded) lenses also don't have a built-in motor, but can't confirm. A quick way to check is to look at the lens mount - an AF lens without a slotted drive connection will have a built in motor. The drive connector can be seen at about 5 o'clock in this image from the mir website.

https://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography...ces/AFNikkor/AF35mm/NikonAF35mmf2D_DA.jpg.JPG

In terms of compatibility, my D610 will work with any lens AI onwards for both focus confirmation and aperture priority, but I have a feeling that the entry level cameras (3XXX and 5XXX) will only give you manual control of non-AF lenses.
 
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Apparently AF-P isn't compatible with cameras before the D5300 and D3300...

Yea it can be a nightmare but it should say in the manual all lens types and accessories are compatible.

they need differed remote shutters and this and that sometimes
 
That 50 is GOOD. Its much better than the junk Canon equivalent.
 
I just hope you get one with a clean sensor. The last 4 used dslr`s I bought needed their sensor cleaning.

Did it myself, it would have been expensive to have them all professionally cleaned.
 
I just hope you get one with a clean sensor. The last 4 used dslr`s I bought needed their sensor cleaning.

Did it myself, it would have been expensive to have them all professionally cleaned.
I feel pretty confident. The gear all looked really well looked after in the photos, and the seller contacted me before posting it to see if I had any questions. It was virtually unused and he is including original receipts and warranty paperwork.
 
If the sensor is dirty then don't worry. I suggest buying a rocket blower ASAP regardless - you'll need it soon enough anyway - and if that's not enough then get a wet clean kit too. I've never needed to wet clean my Sony in nearly 4 years, but my Nikon needed 2 wet cleans in less than 18 months.
 
If the sensor is dirty then don't worry. I suggest buying a rocket blower ASAP regardless - you'll need it soon enough anyway - and if that's not enough then get a wet clean kit too. I've never needed to wet clean my Sony in nearly 4 years, but my Nikon needed 2 wet cleans in less than 18 months.
Why was that Toni?
 
A rocket blower?

I have one of these, and it works fine:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Electron...&qid=1499014366&sr=8-8&keywords=rocket+blower

I had one of these, but lost it:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Giottos-GT...&qid=1499014366&sr=8-1&keywords=rocket+blower

This is a cheaper copy:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingjoy-AB...&qid=1499014366&sr=8-2&keywords=rocket+blower

Why was that Toni?

For a guess, the Sony is an SLT with a half-silvered mirror between the lens and sensor - I'd guess most of the dust lands on that, and it's easy to clean with just a blower, plus dust spots don't focus on the sensor from that. Now I should have thought that the sensor in a DSLR was usually covered by the shutter, but the Nikon seems to attract dust very readily, and a blow isn't enough to get it completely clean.
 
It's here!
Looking good so far, lenses are spotless, no dust, no scratches. Just charging the battery so I can update the firmware then going to do a few test shots to see if the sensor is clean! The body looks pristine as new, even the boxes are in mint condition.
 
Where did you get it from, sounds like a good deal they gave you there
 
Thank you all for your input, really glad I got past analysing ratings. Kept my budget down and still got a great camera.
On first look the sensor looks spotless. Now just got to get the sample image on my laptop when I get to work and bump a few settings up for a closer inspection
 
Do you have image processing software too, or is that the next purchase?
 
Do you have image processing software too, or is that the next purchase?
I have the software that came with the camera, I also have Rawtherapee and LR(only basic at the moment as the trial ran out) and GiMP.
I will probably purchase a standalone version of LR, I don't do a lot beyond RAW development anymore, and I'm trying to minimize post-processing as much as possible at the moment so that I learn to control what I get out of the camera more.
I think my next purchase, however, will be a monitor with a matte screen and a proper colour gamut as my laptop screen doesn't do a good job of representing the photos.
 
LR as a standalone and a decent screen are the key requisits to get you started. I went through a phase of using other software, but most of the time I just use LR now & leave it at that. A used copy of LR5 would work for you, if you could find one at a good price.
 
LR as a standalone and a decent screen are the key requisits to get you started. I went through a phase of using other software, but most of the time I just use LR now & leave it at that. A used copy of LR5 would work for you, if you could find one at a good price.
I'll have a look round the local CEX stores once I have the screen, there's one in every little town around here.
 
That 50 is GOOD. Its much better than the junk Canon equivalent.
the latest canon (stm) 50 is far from being junk, its very good by almost all reports
 
the latest canon (stm) 50 is far from being junk, its very good by almost all reports

Identical image quality though according to this :

When the 50 f/1.8 STM was announced, I was comparing the MTF chart against it predecessor, the 50 f/1.8 II. I initially thought I had downloaded one of the wrong charts. The graphs were sized differently, but they were showing the identical line plot.

I of course could not mentally rest without knowing what was going on, so I asked. In answer to my "Does the new 50mm STM contain the same optics design as the 50mm f/1.8 II?" question, Canon U.S.A.'s extremely knowledgeable Chuck Westfall responded:

"Yes, the optics of the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM are the same as the original EF 50mm f/1.8 and EF 50mm f/1.8 II."
 
where have you copy and pasted that from please?, edit found it. there are much better reviews around. but even that one says optically its very good at the price (if stopped down) and doesnt call it anywere near to junk. so not sure where you get that idea from
 
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where have you copy and pasted that from please?, edit found it. there are much better reviews around. but even that one says optically its very good at the price (if stopped down) and doesnt call it anywere near to junk. so not sure where you get that idea from

I used to own the previous model and it was not junk. I just think the 40mm 2.8 pancake, 35mm f2 and the Nikon 50mm 1.8g all have superior richness, saturation and contrast.
 
I used to own the previous model and it was not junk. I just think the 40mm 2.8 pancake, 35mm f2 and the Nikon 50mm 1.8g all have superior richness, saturation and contrast.
i must admit ive only onwed 3 out of those (and the nikon 35mm g )
 
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