I am making a very basic mistake... but what...?
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mattyh
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Just a couple of others things, now i've looked at the exif... you don't need to use an aperture of 1.8, unless you're going to a shallow DOF.. you can open up to something like F9/10 with a shutter speed of 1/200 or 1/125, lovely jubbly 
Like I said, just testing it and didnt think to change any setting, duh! But I wouldnt have thought the shutter speed was the problem! Whats it like always being right all the time eh guys? 
Thats me thinking what a n00b I am
Thanks you lot, you're fricking awesome
Thats me thinking what a n00b I am
Thanks you lot, you're fricking awesome
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Whats it like always being right all the time eh guys?
the time on your camera's wrong too
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Has anyone mentioned shutter speed yet?
That pose wouldn't lend itself to a really shallow DoF imo, so do as him ^^^ there says and close the aperture a bit, f8 to f11 should work well.
The Xsync is 1/200 on the 400d
on the 2nd pic, the WB is out too
That pose wouldn't lend itself to a really shallow DoF imo, so do as him ^^^ there says and close the aperture a bit, f8 to f11 should work well.
The Xsync is 1/200 on the 400d
on the 2nd pic, the WB is out too
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No its not smart arse, I live on my own little planet that has its own time zone :razz:
You see, always wanting the last word
Jo
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Glad you got some answers Betty. I just had to pipe up and say though; when you first open the thread and look at the top of the image without scrolling it plays tricks on the eyes! I thought it was an animation and the white was scrolling over to the right 
jmghart62
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Ah... this is interesting. I know nothing about using flash ... other than I stick it on my camera in dark conditions and it fires. But, I was shooting some boxing last night in poor lighting so had to resort to using flash and I noticed I could only get a shutter speed of 1/200th... which wasn't really as fast as I would have liked. But nothing I did could change it. Is there something very obvious I'm missing??
mattyh
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Thanks Matty. I never knew that. I love this place... everyone is so helpful
No probs.. I'll leave someone else to tell you more about high speed sync, as it's not something I really use
Cheez
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www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=59470
Take a look at this that Janice posted, this should help you understand the flash sync.
Jim M
Take a look at this that Janice posted, this should help you understand the flash sync.
Jim M
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These flash sync problems only occur because we have focal plane shutters in our DSLR cameras. Before the SLR was invented, shutters were in the lens and were a little leaf shutter assembly which experienced little stress at all.
When they invented the SLR the lens had to be open all the time as it's also the viewfinder, so the shutter had to be moved, and they put it right at the back of the camera where it lies just in front of the film or sensor which are actually in the focal plane, but a focal plane shutter is in fact just in front of the focal plane.
Focal plane shutters consist of two metal blinds or curtains. When we use flash, and press the shutter, the first curtain travels upwards, completely exposing the sensor, the flash fires (recording the whole scene because the whole sensor is uncovered) then the second curtain travels upwards covering the sensor.
The camera recocking/winding mechanism then pulls the second curtain back to it's original position dragging the first curtain with it ready for the next shot.
The flash sync speed problems arise as the shutter speed starts to get faster. It varies from one manufacturer to another, but usually the max sync speed is around 1/200th or 1/250th of a second. The reason for this is that there's a limit to how fast they can make those blinds travel upwards across the sensor, and it's already a big, quite violent mechanism with a limited life span, so it's undesirable make it any faster anyway.
The way they get round the problem is that at shutter speeds faster than the max sync speed of (say) 1/200th, is that just after the first curtain starts to uncover the sensor, the second curtain starts it's travel behind it, creating a moving slit across the sensor which exposes the sensor for the desired time, but incrementally - the whole sensor gets the right exposure but not all that the same time.
The faster the shutter speed, the narrower that slit gets to give the shorter exposures right up to 1/8000th of a second.
If you use flash at a shutter speed higher than the maximum flash sync speed of the camera, then when the flash fires it will only record the part of he scene which corresponds to the width of the moving slit at that time.
Hi Speed Sync
Isn't true sync at all, the way it works is that the flash puts out a continuous pulse of small flashes ( like a string of beads) throughout the duration of that moving slit so the whole scene is recorded by the flash.
It's best used at short distances and large apertures as it obviously puts a huge load on the flashgun which it struggles to meet as the aperture gets smaller.
Hope that helps.
When they invented the SLR the lens had to be open all the time as it's also the viewfinder, so the shutter had to be moved, and they put it right at the back of the camera where it lies just in front of the film or sensor which are actually in the focal plane, but a focal plane shutter is in fact just in front of the focal plane.
Focal plane shutters consist of two metal blinds or curtains. When we use flash, and press the shutter, the first curtain travels upwards, completely exposing the sensor, the flash fires (recording the whole scene because the whole sensor is uncovered) then the second curtain travels upwards covering the sensor.
The camera recocking/winding mechanism then pulls the second curtain back to it's original position dragging the first curtain with it ready for the next shot.
The flash sync speed problems arise as the shutter speed starts to get faster. It varies from one manufacturer to another, but usually the max sync speed is around 1/200th or 1/250th of a second. The reason for this is that there's a limit to how fast they can make those blinds travel upwards across the sensor, and it's already a big, quite violent mechanism with a limited life span, so it's undesirable make it any faster anyway.
The way they get round the problem is that at shutter speeds faster than the max sync speed of (say) 1/200th, is that just after the first curtain starts to uncover the sensor, the second curtain starts it's travel behind it, creating a moving slit across the sensor which exposes the sensor for the desired time, but incrementally - the whole sensor gets the right exposure but not all that the same time.
The faster the shutter speed, the narrower that slit gets to give the shorter exposures right up to 1/8000th of a second.
If you use flash at a shutter speed higher than the maximum flash sync speed of the camera, then when the flash fires it will only record the part of he scene which corresponds to the width of the moving slit at that time.
Hi Speed Sync
Isn't true sync at all, the way it works is that the flash puts out a continuous pulse of small flashes ( like a string of beads) throughout the duration of that moving slit so the whole scene is recorded by the flash.
It's best used at short distances and large apertures as it obviously puts a huge load on the flashgun which it struggles to meet as the aperture gets smaller.
Hope that helps.