Hozelock connector keeps coming off

Skyline

Skyline

Emmet Brickowski
Suspended / Banned
Messages
4,497
Name
Dave
Edit My Images
No
The whole thing here is under 2 years old. It was ok until last year when the connector kept coming off. So I went and bought new connectors.
So far this year it's happening again. The connector comes off a little while after the water is turned on. I have tried turning the outside tap fully on and only a little bit, either way the connector comes off.

Anyone got a fix for this?





 
Weird though.
That setup is almost identical to mine and I've never had an issue.
I'm sure glue will keep it in place but you're screwed when it comes to replacing.
 
viv1969 said:
Weird though.
That setup is almost identical to mine and I've never had an issue.
I'm sure glue will keep it in place but you're screwed when it comes to replacing.
Click to expand...

I did think that but at the end of the day the connector and the center part doesn't cost much.
 
The only thing I'm thinking now if I glue it is, if it gives there will it end up giving somewhere else. I don't want to end up gluing and duct taping the whole house lol
 
I have found that connectors disconnecting under pressure is a problem with non Hozelock connectors (Bloody PITA it is, too). I put it down to being low quality products. Got to wonder if Hozelock are now getting their kit made by some el cheapo outfit. I resorted to securing the connection with cable ties.
 
The hose connector on the left does not look to be a genuine Hozelock, so there may be slight size differences in the 2 fittings? - after checking that the internal prongs are releasing correctly and clicking firmly on as there looks to be some wear on the hose reel outlet, you could check you have the correct size O ring or try using a slightly larger diameter O ring.
 
Looks genuine to me, albeit a few years old. After having a connector fail while we were away last year (HUGE water bill...), I've replaced all the connectors with brass ones sourced through Amazon. I've also rigged up a water butt with a suitable connector so the most I can spill next month is 100 litres!
 
Mine broke off completely, what I did was, pulled the hose all the way out, put a male connector on the other end of the hose,
and rewound it back on the reel, with a few inches sticking out, so however far you pull out the hose you can still connect it.
With your short feed from the tap.

The only down side is that you can't rewind it while connected to the short length from the tap,
the plus side is, its a damned sight cheaper than buying a new one ;)
 
It is a genuine one, from b&q.

I tried something like that Cobra. I put the hose straight through where the male/female connector are. Straight on the tap it never came off. Only problem that way is once I done it I couldn't wind it back in... DOH!! :banghead:
 
Lower your hose reel so it is lower than the tap feed

In your case place the steel bracket holding the reel level with the bottom of the black box
 
I had to get new connectors when this happened to me, all OK so far.
 
Keith W said:
Lower your hose reel so it is lower than the tap feed

In your case place the steel bracket holding the reel level with the bottom of the black box
Click to expand...

Something to do with gravity?
 
It's very important :rolleyes:
 
Daverkl said:
It is a genuine one, from b&q.

I tried something like that Cobra. I put the hose straight through where the male/female connector are. Straight on the tap it never came off. Only problem that way is once I done it I couldn't wind it back in... DOH!! :banghead:
Click to expand...
Hence my suggestion that you leave a bit of the pipe sticking out, and then disconnect it before winding in :D
 
Use DRAPER connectors instead of Hozelock. They twist to lock on once connected. They are also much cheaper. I have an extensive hose system running around the garden with various take off point and the Draper connectors never disconnect though many are quite old. They mate perfectly with Hozelocks.
 
Lower the reel or move it a bit more to the right ;) You'll have less tension on the connection and it will make a better connection...Failing that just regurarly replace the connector ;)
 
Perhaps you could attach a jubilee clip around the plastic connector as a alternative fix. Although the plastic part may break when under pressure from the clip.
 
Yeah,

I find that after a few years the fittings need replacing and sometimes cutting an inch off the hose end means that it is more crush resistant and maintains its shape batter.

Instead of glue, try something like Zap Z-42 Thread Locker. Available in varying strengths at hardware / DIY stores like Wilkinsons or B&Q. It works a treat on many threaded products. Can be twist released with a bit of force when you really need to disconnect it.
 
Same happened with mine. I just heated up the end of the hose pipe (bare, with no connector) and jubilee clipped it onto the male connector. Works a treat now.

The thing with only turning your tap on a tiny bit is that when you are not using the hose the pressure will still increase as if your tap is turned on full. If you turn your tap on a tiny bit and leave it, then when you first spray the water it will come out at high pressure then drop down.
 
Daverkl said:
It is a genuine one, from b&q.

I tried something like that Cobra. I put the hose straight through where the male/female connector are. Straight on the tap it never came off. Only problem that way is once I done it I couldn't wind it back in... DOH!! :banghead:
Click to expand...
Just noticed this bit lol, oops. Does the male connector spin round with the reel? Mine is slightly different hence how I can get away clipping the hose straight onto the connector.
 
Looks like I'm not the only one to have this problem.

Thanks for all the tips. I will try lowering the reel first, then jubilee clip it, then try Draper connectors, and if none of them work I'll glue it. If it still does it I will move all my plants under the tap area lol
 
I switched to metal hozelock connectors and so far not had problems.
 
replace BOTH connectors male and female with a pair that are from the same makers ,the right hand one should have a simple screw thread .its just different tolerances from different manufacturers thats causing the problem .probably cost about a fiver far simpler solution that actually works

the ONLY other thing i can see that MIGHT be the cause of the problem the left hand connector you say has been replaced ,this is on the IN-FLOW part of the pipe .have you replaced this with a stop valve connector by mistake .there are TWO very different types of hose connector one with a stop valve and one thats a straight through flow
 
Last edited:
It's all hozelock, every part of it. I also made sure to get the correct connector when I replaced it :)
 
the black fox said:
have you replaced this with a stop valve connector by mistake .there are TWO very different types of hose connector one with a stop valve and one thats a straight through flow
Click to expand...
IIRC correctly the stop-valve one has a distinctive red ring. The one in the photo is a standard connector.
Besides, a stop-flow connector would build pressure on the tapside, so wouldn't explain the disconnection at the hose side of the connector.
 
Come on chaps we're all grown-up in here. All this "hozelock connector keeps coming off" stuff isn't fooling anyone. Premature Ejuactuation (sp) is a problem faced by most men (not me obv) at some point in their lives. Try thinking about naming the current england football/cricket team in reverse order (not out loud I recommend) or thinking about the benifits of pedestrianisation of Norwich city centre to keep the wolf from the door so to speak. Dont overdo it though, you dont want your mains pressure to fall below 2 bar,ahem, as it were.
 
Last edited:
DorsetDude said:
Cone on chaps we're all grown-up in here. All this "hozelock connector keeps coming off" stuff isn't fooling anyone. Premature Ejuactuation (sp) is a problem faced by most men (not me obv) at some point in their lives. Try thinking about naming the current england football/cricket team in reverse order to keep the wolf from the door so to speak.
Click to expand...

I seen you coming a mile away.
 
I thought it was about things popping out, in which case shrinkage may be the problem;)
 
I have the same setup as you, but mine isn't attached to the wall and get the same issue, although tap on Full (high water pressure area too) and no problem, but if I pull the hose out or wind it in with the water on, the connector will burst off as yours does. This is with the end of the hose either opened or closed.

I've resorted to unreeling the entire length of hose I need before turning on the tap, and turning it off before reeling it back up.
 
I have always had the same trouble, the reason being is that the male side of the connector spins every time the hose is pulled out and wears away the small pins in the female side enough for it to pop off. I have tried all diferrent makes but the same thing happens.
 
The Spear and Jackson brass connectors from Amazon have metal balls so should last a lot longer. The downside could be that using brass connectors could make the male thread on the reel itself the weak point and that's the most expensive part!

Since our garden isn't huge, I usually stick the far end of the hose on the tap, carry the reel out to where it's needed and use a 6' length of hose as the flexible end. I use the auto stop connectors on any "live" ends and have a connector (double male fitting) to use if I want a simple hose jet rather than use a nozzle.
 
If everything has been replaced with new and correct fittings the only thing it can be then is to much pressure from the tap .not unheard of but unlikely ? ,is there some some sort of twist or constriction on the inner end of your reel that might cause it ,trying to keep to sensible answers here .
 
I've had the whole hose out and there no twist, kinks etc. I might give Hozelock a call in the morning and see what they say.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top