thanks --- downloaded Picasa 3 and will give it a go
I presume...
level tripod mount
some overlap of say 20% on each exposure....?
I think that the most important thing is to lock the exposure on manual so that it cannot change as you scan across, which it inevitably will. And you need to select an exposure setting that can cope with extremes such as when you get near the sun. If it's windy and clouds are moving, you need to work quickly.
And don't use a super-wide lens that will stretch the edges unnaturally, even if if the software will probably manage to merge them pretty well. Athough a decent bit of overlap will minimise that. There's no need to shoot that wide - just add another frame or two to cover the scene.
Shoot at a mid range f/number to avoid vignetting (darkened corners) which also looks unnatural, though again a good overlap minimises that.
You don't actually need a tripod most of the time when doing typical landscapes, though it certainly makes things easier - keeping the camera dead level and with the markings for overlap on the panning base. But I've seen some amazing things done with clever software, matching up seamlessly a dozen or more images in two dimensions. V clever.
You can get problems when there is significant foreground detail close to the camera, as the perspective can change as you pan around. It's not a problem with distant landscapes, usually only interiors, but then you certainly need the precision of a tripod and also a nodal rail which ensures the whole thing pivots around the optical centre of the lens to maintain consistent perspective.
All of which perhaps sounds complicated, but for regular landscape stuff just give it some careful thought and pre-planning, then rattle off a few frames with plenty of overlap, keeping the camera as level as you can, and throw them at the software.
Let us know how you get on
