How to stop filters getting stuck?

juggler

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I got a CPL stuck on a step up ring. And a right git it was to get off too - I had to disassemble the filter and then put it in the freezer before taking pliers to it (yes, I'd tried all the other common approaches first).

So how should I stop it getting stuck again? I was thinking about a spot of PTFE spray on the threads but is there an accepted approach?
 
I used PTFE on the last one I had trouble with.

I sprayed some into the lid of the can and then used a small brush to apply just a tiny amount - it worked for me.

This was with an old camera and filters though - I'm not so sure I'd have done it if it was a new and expensive one even though this instructions said it was safe on metal and glass.
 
realspeed said:
may sound stupid but don't tighten it up so much and turn anti clockwise so it doesn't
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Sounds entirely sensible but not practical in my case! I quickly twiddle it back and forth to find the sweet spot. If I just went anticlockwise the model's pose would be stale long before I got there.

realspeed said:
get the right size CPL
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Won't it just get stuck on the lens instead instead?
 
Sky said:
I used PTFE on the last one I had trouble with.

I sprayed some into the lid of the can and then used a small brush to apply just a tiny amount - it worked for me.

This was with an old camera and filters though - I'm not so sure I'd have done it if it was a new and expensive one even though this instructions said it was safe on metal and glass.
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Thank you. I was lucky to disassemble everything without damage, I'm willing to take a punt.
 
juggler said:
I got a CPL stuck on a step up ring. And a right git it was to get off too - I had to disassemble the filter and then put it in the freezer before taking pliers to it (yes, I'd tried all the other common approaches first).

So how should I stop it getting stuck again? I was thinking about a spot of PTFE spray on the threads but is there an accepted approach?
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In the everything that you tried did that include using a filter wrench like these?


PS mention was made above about using pencil scrapings.....I would think just very lightly running the edge of an HB or B grade pencil round the filter thread would deposit the tiny amount of graphite needed to 'lubricate' the filter thread ok?
 
Box Brownie said:
In the everything that you tried did that include using a filter wrench like these?


PS mention was made above about using pencil scrapings.....I would think just very lightly running the edge of an HB or B grade pencil round the filter thread would deposit the tiny amount of graphite needed to 'lubricate' the filter thread ok?
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Yes. I couldn't get sufficient grip on the low profile CPL and the low profile step up ring.

realspeed said:
get the right size CPL
Click to expand...

juggler said:
Won't it just get stuck on the lens instead instead?
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Realisation has struck! It would get stuck on the lens but I at least I would be able to get sufficient grip with a filter wrench
 
juggler said:
Yes. I couldn't get sufficient grip on the low profile CPL and the low profile step up ring.




Realisation has struck! It would get stuck on the lens but I at least I would be able to get sufficient grip with a filter wrench
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Re: using a filter wrench
I wonder if you put a thin elastic band or even a strip cut off of rubber glove between the wrench and the filter there will be much increased "grab" compared to the wrench alone.
 
I draw a gentle line across the thread of new filters using a 4B pencil, screw it down to just seat on a lens then wipe off any excess "lead" from both threads and do similar to the female thread on the "front" of the filter. Other than that, these days I don't have any filters (semi) permanently mounted so never fit one tightly.
 
sk66 said:
Don't buy cheap aluminum step rings/filters... buy brass; the quality and hardness of the threads makes a big difference.
These days there are also magnetic filters...
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I know loads of people use magnetic filters with no problems, but personally I'm wary. Years back I killed a pentax by using a magnetic mount to fix it to a moving car (it killed the shutter) and using a radio mike pack I managed to wipe all my credit cards (sadly it didn't wipe the balance at the bank end ;)). So I'm cautious of magnetic/radio stuff with cameras. Yes I know it's just me and I'm doomed.
 
sk66 said:
Don't buy cheap aluminum step rings/filters... buy brass; the quality and hardness of the threads makes a big difference.
These days there are also magnetic filters...
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This. I was just about to say that.
 
swanseamale47 said:
I know loads of people use magnetic filters with no problems, but personally I'm wary. Years back I killed a pentax by using a magnetic mount to fix it to a moving car (it killed the shutter) and using a radio mike pack I managed to wipe all my credit cards (sadly it didn't wipe the balance at the bank end ;)). So I'm cautious of magnetic/radio stuff with cameras. Yes I know it's just me and I'm doomed.
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Back in the day they used magnetic property for the functionality of equipment. It is far less common now, so it frees up magnets for mounting stuff and locking the doors! I use very strong magnetic pads for my phone in the car and had zero problems in over 4 years... it is safe now
 
rub a candle very lightly around the threads is the old school way. Any very light application of a release agent, examples above, would stop binding. If steel comes into contact with aluminum you can get galvanic welding, most commonly seen with seat posts in bicycle frames. If the rings become distorted then it's a mechanical rather than chemical binding thenit's filter wrench etc. Back in the day we used to jam the offending filter, usually stuck on a lens, in a door jam used as a vice. That always worked but a bit brutal.
AF issues can happen with low quality filters as the glass can warp. You can rest a filter on a flat table and it should not rock to and fro. some are slightly banana shaped and will rock, those go in the bin. I saw this a couple of years ago where a chap proudly had a B+W protector. He was disappointed to learn it was a fake, was banana shaped and causing his AF to play up. He had bought it on eBay. If you were familiar with B+W filter you could see at three paces it was fake but if you are not...
 
ilikebowens said:
He had bought it on eBay. If you were familiar with B+W filter you could see at three paces it was fake but if you are not
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Another one to be careful with is Hoya. Fakers love these brands and yes they absolutely throw off both af and sharpness particularly with slightly longer lenses.
 
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