How To Setup A remote camera behind goals in football.

I’ve been using them with many canon models including 1DXM2. I know it can be very frustrating getting things like this to work. Perhaps you’re missing 602 trigger unit? I don’t think two receiver units can do it. Just check what I have and it’s the 605 in 602 mode. The unit on my main camera set to TX and the remote cameras all on RX.
Yes, Tx is Transmit and Rx is receive. I think the 603's have a switch on the side for the correct setting.
 
Being bored, I just checked (which you could have easily done).

The US output falls within the band allocated to military air traffic control.

Thanks, yes i could have you are right, but A.) it was past midnight and B.) You seemed to know more than you stated in the original post! So worth the question.

At the end of the day anything can be found out by google :)
 
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My first effort, fired the remote by hand.Not a easy thing to do.View attachment 458513

not familier with the remote so not sure how difficult it is to fire with your hand, if its the fact you don't have 3 hands - try this.

What I do, if my remotes are not in the same position as i am firing my main camera, is to velcro it to a glove and it then sits in my palm without me holding it and i use one finger to trigger the remote while I hold the main camera. That or I velcro it to the side of my lens.
 
The other thing you can use is a music footswitch with jack plug to fire the transmitter
 
Recently tried the Nikon z9 Autocapture feature which does all the work for you when used on a remote camera.

You tell the camera what to look for, motion from left to right, and it tracks it when it comes into the frame. I tried it at the horse racing and it worked well. Still need some more practice, but was an interesting first attempt.
 
Recently tried the Nikon z9 Autocapture feature which does all the work for you when used on a remote camera.

You tell the camera what to look for, motion from left to right, and it tracks it when it comes into the frame. I tried it at the horse racing and it worked well. Still need some more practice, but was an interesting first attempt.
I’ve been experimenting with canon mirrorless for remote’s too - I don’t think there is an autocapture feature quite like this. There are lots of settings to test. It’s allowing images I otherwise wouldn’t be able to get and the possible wider apertures mean a very different look too.
 
I’ve been experimenting with canon mirrorless for remote’s too - I don’t think there is an autocapture feature quite like this. There are lots of settings to test. It’s allowing images I otherwise wouldn’t be able to get and the possible wider apertures mean a very different look too.

What have you been doing @TimHughes - I had thought of using either of my mirrorless bodies and putting it on that full auto subject detect mode - but I think you'd need fornt button focus activated to actually actuate the focus motors via the remote shutter press (that or full time continual focus which would eat battery).

Talking of remotes - mine took a bit of a hit a week or so ago... all still working! well the focus on the lens had gone anyway....remote.jpg
 
What have you been doing @TimHughes - I had thought of using either of my mirrorless bodies and putting it on that full auto subject detect mode - but I think you'd need fornt button focus activated to actually actuate the focus motors via the remote shutter press (that or full time continual focus which would eat battery).

Yes, for remote shooting, I change the camera settings so that the shutter button activates autofocus. I then select a zone where I expect the action to be and the best AF mode, e.g., face-tracking and have the autofocus set to only take a picture once focus is achieved.
 
Ah the zone thing isn't a bad idea, I was planning on setting it to that Auto setting where it auto picks up the subject at any point on the screen rather than a zone. I am not quite sure how the zones work on my R5 or R6 2 actually as i've never used them, I assumed that rather than automatically detecting and tracking the subject full time, they only tracked on half press which I would have thought may be slightly less reliable because it is all down to whatever the autofocus first picks up rather than it having time to "think" beforehand.
 
When the remote trigger is held down for a burst of frames that helps with the tracking.
 
today i placed my Gopro behind the goal for our home game.Managed to catch our only goal.and got a photo from it.Good enough for the fans website.pic.jpg
 
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I find the gopro to be a bit hot and miss.. mostly miss because the shutter speed just isnt up to it :( These from yesterday accrington late goal v walsall

Image2.jpgImage3.jpg
 
I used 4k 60, and I might try 4K 120 next time
 
tried 5.3k 60, but Gopro was starting to get warm. The video footage helped to explain the goal being disallowed . :mad: I got some good "cele" pix, but could not use them .
ab70.jpg
 
Anyone tied the Auto Capture. I think thats Nikons motion detect nomenclature. Not sure if other manufacturers have got similar
 
Anyone tied the Auto Capture. I think thats Nikons motion detect nomenclature. Not sure if other manufacturers have got similar
Looks like a good innovation. Canon has many of the elements, but not the complete automation.
 
decided to sell the pocket wizards and go down the GoPro route.Team happy with the wee "slo mo" videos of any goal mouth action .
 
talking of auto capture, has anyone got any idea if there is a solution for automatic triggering when a beam is broken using plus 3s? I guess you just need an external system plugged into a transmitter but does something small and light exist?
 
talking of auto capture, has anyone got any idea if there is a solution for automatic triggering when a beam is broken using plus 3s? I guess you just need an external system plugged into a transmitter but does something small and light exist?
miops?
 
If anyone has an old PocketWizard Plus III that is either broken or they aren't using, I'd be very interested in it. Preferably a Nikon one, but I'm not fussy.
 
If anyone has an old PocketWizard Plus III that is either broken or they aren't using, I'd be very interested in it. Preferably a Nikon one, but I'm not fussy.

I have 3x USA ones I may be selling - but they arent compatible with UK
 
On a related subject, I remoted one of my mirrorless bodies this weekend and tried it with the full frame subject tracking (auto subject detection) and it worked a treat. My go to lens for remote is a 70-200 F4L thats 20 years old and auto focus has failed, but the tests this weekend were a game changer. I might just have to find a second 70-200 second hand where the auto focus actually works.... The benefits of the R6ii or R5 remoted autofocused with the ability to keep the F number down, increase the shutter as a result and push the ISO more were a gigantic step forward... I even proped the RF 400 F2.8L on a monopod against an upturned Tree stump and remoted it with the R5 full subject tracking (The TR7 shot)

1A2A5957 by Andrew_S84, on Flickr

5G4A7468 by Andrew_S84, on Flickr
 
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On a related subject, I remoted one of my mirrorless bodies this weekend and tried it with the full frame subject tracking (auto subject detection) and it worked a treat. My go to lens for remote is a 70-200 F4L thats 20 years old and auto focus has failed, but the tests this weekend were a game changer. I might just have to find a second 70-200 second hand where the auto focus actually works.... The benefits of the R6ii or R5 remoted autofocused with the ability to keep the F number down, increase the shutter as a result and push the ISO more were a gigantic step forward... I even proped the RF 400 F2.8L on a monopod against an upturned Tree stump and remoted it with the R5 full subject tracking (The TR7 shot)

1A2A5957 by Andrew_S84, on Flickr

5G4A7468 by Andrew_S84, on Flickr
I agree; the improvement is tremendous. Pics are possible now that really weren't before.
 
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