How To Setup A remote camera behind goals in football.

Pick

Pick

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Looking to set up a remote camera behind the goals in football. I think pocket wizards are good but to expensive.Anyone recommend another set up.
 
Pocket Wizards are very good but I have used Yongnuo rf-602's, not football but equestrian, for the last 12 or so years without issue.
I think with all remote gear, batteries are very important so always use a good brand.
 
Have you worked out how to balance focal length and field of view so the net doesn't block your action?
 
going to use a old canon 16 -35mm on a 1dx.Like the idea that the pocket wizard on camera fires the remote I think the Yongnuo you have to press the button on it.
 
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Pick said:
going to use a old canon 16 -35mm on a 1dx.Like the idea that the pocket wizard on camera fires the remote I think the Yongnuo you have to press the button on it.
Click to expand...

Not sure who told you that but it's incorrect. I have the 602TX on the camera and the 602RX on the slave camera. Been doing this for years.
 
found these on Amazon ,

Yongnuo RF-603C II Wireless Remote. £40​

 
admirable said:
Pocket Wizards are very good but I have used Yongnuo rf-602's, not football but equestrian, for the last 12 or so years without issue.
I think with all remote gear, batteries are very important so always use a good brand.
Click to expand...


Depending on the level of sport, interference will come into play.

Obviously not an issue with most equestrian work (apart from racing), but fairly significant if broadcast are on site.

That's when PW's will beat most other brands.

Although if I were to opt for a cheap alternative, it would be Yongnnuo. There are virtually the only other brand (model dependent) that will fire from the hotshoe.
 
Remote shots are great when you get a decent one but OMG so many wasted clicks haha

for football
Settings.. unlike the rest of the pitch I am NOT looking for a shallow depth of field.. in fact quite the opposite.. So i set the highest ISO I htink I can gte away with looking at the light... shutter maybe 1000+ again looking at the light.. then set to shutter priority leaving the camera to decide on the aperture (thats all it will change) and if i have set up right can be quite deep on a decent day.. you dont know where the shots coming from :)

manual focus and pre focus just a bit furthur into the pitch than the goal line.. again looking at the light and the above setup depends how far into the pitch I will focus

big fan of Yongnuo here and they have a good range.. fired from hotshoe.. But I tend not to do big games with lots of remotes behind the goals so usually just mine :)


Equipment.. 1dx will be brilliant.. I took this with my old original Canon 10d haha and 17-40 f4


b1.jpg


b2.jpg
 
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admirable said:
Not sure who told you that but it's incorrect. I have the 602TX on the camera and the 602RX on the slave camera. Been doing this for years.
Click to expand...
I have just bought the remote and it came with only 1 cable.Do I need to buy another, for it to work.A cable on each camera
 
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Pick said:
I have just bought the remote and it came with 1 cable.Do I need to buy another, for it to work.
Click to expand...


I had to buy a different cable for it to work on a canon...
 
Pick said:
I have just bought the remote and it came with only 1 cable.Do I need to buy another, for it to work.A cable on each camera
Click to expand...
I have the 602's not sure about the 603's but it looks like they might work through the flash mount connections? If not you'll need another cable.
 
Maybe not as relevent for football but could be of some use, I use a lot of remotes for Rallying. I tend to go slightly another way to @KIPAX and figure that I'd rather get a shot and de-noise it in bulk if need be than get something blured as the shutter wasn't high enough or out of focus as the apature wasn't small enough so my go to is

F number as high as I can - generally F6.3 or more, Ideally around F8
Shutter at least 1/500 if head on, ideally 1/800 or higher if there is vertical movement upto 1/2000 for 3/4 angle
Then I set the ISO to auto. Works perfectly on my 7D Mk2s which I use as remotes as they are fairly low value and I am happy to risk damage.

I suspect that you may need slightly faster for the dynamic movement of people though?

1/2000 F10 from the weekend:
5A2A2614.jpg

1/1250 F8
751A2188.jpg

1/1600 F6.3
751A9593-Enhanced-NR-Edit.jpg

And just to prove it can be done in poorer light conditions.

1/640 F5.6
5A2A2041.jpg
 
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A_S said:
. I tend to go slightly another way to @KIPAX and figure that I'd rather get a shot and de-noise it in bulk if need be than get something blured as the shutter wasn't high enough or out of focus as the apature wasn't small enough so my go to is
Click to expand...


eh?

If you re read my post I set the shutter to 1000 which is plenty for behind the goal.. I set the ISO as high as I think the lighting will allow and then the fstop takes care of itself.. I need as many fs as possible as I dont know how far away the player will be when he shoots


how on earth am i getting blurry shots ????
 
KIPAX said:
eh?

If you re read my post I set the shutter to 1000 which is plenty for behind the goal.. I set the ISO as high as I think the lighting will allow and then the fstop takes care of itself.. I need as many fs as possible as I dont know how far away the player will be when he shoots


how on earth am i getting blurry shots ????
Click to expand...

Have a re-read, my comment RE blury shots was in relation to the way i set mine up not in reference to your shots. I am simply saying I don't let the F stop take care of itself, I let the ISO take care of itself, as i want to ensure the F stop is in the range i mention. Just a different way of acheiving the same result, stating thats how I do it, not being critical of your method at all :)
 
KIPAX said:
Remote shots are great when you get a decent one but OMG so many wasted clicks haha

for football
Settings.. unlike the rest of the pitch I am NOT looking for a shallow depth of field.. in fact quite the opposite.. So i set the highest ISO I htink I can gte away with looking at the light... shutter maybe 1000+ again looking at the light.. then set to shutter priority leaving the camera to decide on the aperture (thats all it will change) and if i have set up right can be quite deep on a decent day.. you dont know where the shots coming from :)

manual focus and pre focus just a bit furthur into the pitch than the goal line.. again looking at the light and the above setup depends how far into the pitch I will focus

big fan of Yongnuo here and they have a good range.. fired from hotshoe.. But I tend not to do big games with lots of remotes behind the goals so usually just mine :)


Equipment.. 1dx will be brilliant.. I took this with my old original Canon 10d haha and 17-40 f4


b1.jpg


b2.jpg
Click to expand...
Did Joey Barton foul anyone in that game?

Is the Pope a Catholic, etc.....
 
I bought another cable and tried it out, but it does not work they way i want.One camera won't fire the other.
 
Settings on the triggers?

I've the Plus III's and use Lr / RxLr, channel 80, group B. (channel 80 as I doubt anyone has the patience to go that high on the trigger and also the screen of one of my triggers is broken so it was the easiest channel to choose). Have also started using a cable on the main camera.

The cables and trigger feet are the first points to fail I have found. Also ensure batteries are fully charge. All helps.

Edit
Also, turn the triggers on at the same time. This apparently helps also.
 
I am lucky enough (or unlucky enough) to have some american plus 3s - they are completely incompatible with the european ones which is great, because no risk of anyone triggering my camera... but unhelpfully i could do with another 1 or 2 (I have 3) and Haven't found any other US ones!
 
Pick said:
I bought another cable and tried it out, but it does not work they way i want.One camera won't fire the other.
Click to expand...
Can you provide more details? I’ve been using Yongnuo triggers for this for a long time.
 
I’ve been experimenting with wide apertures for shallow DOF and AF rather than deep DOF and MF. More risky but when it works the results are great. And only possible for me fairly recently as older mirrorless bodies with great AF features have progressed to remote camera duties.
 
TimHughes said:
Can you provide more details? I’ve been using Yongnuo triggers for this for a long time.
Click to expand...
I have 1 trigger on top of Canon 1DX and connected with cable, and a Canon 1DXii connected with cable.When i fire the DXii it does nothing to the other camera.Take the trigger of the camera and press button and it fires the other camera.Looks like the 603 work differently from 602
 
Have you swapped the cables over to see if it’s a cable issue?

For my pocket wizards I bought some cables off amazon to convert my hanhal trigger cables to the bigger pocket wizard jack size and they were always unreliable - maybe because of the connection, but it’s worth a try to see if it’s the cable on your system
 
yes i have swopped the cables, and its the same.Might go down the foot pedal route
 
I’ve just tested 602’s on two 1DX’s, both MK1’s.

The transmitter RF-T602TX mounted on the hotshoe on camera 1. The receiver RF-602RX connected to camera 2 via cable with the Canon N3 plug at one end and the 602 plug at the other.

Pressing the shutter button on camera 1 fires the shutter on camera 2
 
Is this the cable you have?
 

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Being bored, I just checked (which you could have easily done).

The US output falls within the band allocated to military air traffic control.
 
Pick said:
I have 1 trigger on top of Canon 1DX and connected with cable, and a Canon 1DXii connected with cable.When i fire the DXii it does nothing to the other camera.Take the trigger of the camera and press button and it fires the other camera.Looks like the 603 work differently from 602
Click to expand...


According to that you have two camera connected with cables? This is what I have . the TX fires the RX ..If the TX in hotshoe the camera fires it otherwise button.. 1089d95e-eba1-4a59-9443-855c4e035148.jpeg
 
Perhaps the 1DXII is the issue? Have you tried firing the 1DX from the 1DXII? I'm using 2x 1DX's
 
I’ve been using them with many canon models including 1DXM2. I know it can be very frustrating getting things like this to work. Perhaps you’re missing 602 trigger unit? I don’t think two receiver units can do it. Just check what I have and it’s the 605 in 602 mode. The unit on my main camera set to TX and the remote cameras all on RX.
 
TimHughes said:
I’ve been using them with many canon models including 1DXM2. I know it can be very frustrating getting things like this to work. Perhaps you’re missing 602 trigger unit? I don’t think two receiver units can do it. Just check what I have and it’s the 605 in 602 mode. The unit on my main camera set to TX and the remote cameras all on RX.
Click to expand...



exactly.. i did mention he seemed to have wired up both cameras... which is wrong... my picture should make more sense ? hopefully :)
 
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