How to choose settings in Manual mode

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Mike410

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Hi all,

I would like to learn how to use Manual mode to get a better understanding of my camera and photography.

I usually use Program, Av and Tv. And generally keep my ISO on 100.

How do you know which settings to use in Manual for a specific scene? It seems for a newbie to Manual mode that would take quite a bit of trial and error to get it right.

So how do you know which Shutter speed, Aperture and ISO to use?

Does it get quite time consuming to have to change all the settings each time you want to take a shot, and do you risk losing a quick opportunity shot having to change correct settings?

Thanks,

Mike
 
you get used to surveying a certain scene the more practice you get but to begin with, just use the needle on your camera's light meter.

You'll know what kind of dof and shutter you will need based on the subject - i.e. single portrait - wide aperture, sports shot fast shutter speed etc

so dial your priority in and then adjust the rest, like the iso until your needle is near the middle. You can do all of this without ever taking a shot
 
Depends if you are talking landscapes or portraits.

I will talk about portraits as that my thing, and say that I generally use a light meter to get the desired exposure. I also use my knowledge to get the desired effect, as it is not just exposure, but depth of field so will need to use different aperture, shutter speed and ISO combos to change this. I would say have a play and see how things change and how to keep exposure the same. E.g. 2 x clicks (thirds or half stops depending on camera/option) closing the aperture down will be counteracted be two clicks slowing the shutter.

The reason I use a light meter in these situation and why the camera light meter is rarely spot on is to get the correct exposure for skin tones. If you are using the camera light meter than you are likely to get a well exposed scene but not usually the face which is key.
 
The way I done it was all trial and error. I stuck it on manual and left it there fir six months solid. That way I learnt the quickest/best way 'for me' to use manual.

I usually set the aperture to what I wanted for the shot, then tried to get the shutter speed I want with it, and then if I couldn't, I'd adjust the iso to achieve the shutter speed that way.

But I'm far from a expert, so others might say different.

I would say though that sticking it in manual and learning that way has done me' the world of good.

Alan
 
joescrivens said:
you get used to surveying a certain scene the more practice you get but to begin with, just use the needle on your camera's light meter.

You'll know what kind of dof and shutter you will need based on the subject - i.e. single portrait - wide aperture, sports shot fast shutter speed etc

so dial your priority in and then adjust the rest, like the iso until your needle is near the middle. You can do all of this without ever taking a shot
Click to expand...

I'm a bit confused by what you mean by the cameras light meter needle.

I still shoot in manual for some old rangefinder cameras I have that have no light meter.
I follow the "sunny f16" rule:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule

and will adjust these settings according to the scene I am photographing.
i.e. fast shutter speed for moving subjects, wider aperture for DOF effects.

Here's another guide with practical advice:
http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/3762805_fpgXr
 
This is very interesting so would you say a light meter is a essential bit of kit?
 
Hi.. I decide what I am trying to photograph. if a landscape, a larger F no (e.g. f16) or if a portrait (smaller F no (e.g. f4). If I'm shooting sport, then may be I'll start with a shutter speed (1/800th). Next I look at the light. If its bright, then ISO100, if its low light, then start with ISO800. Then I look through the viewfinder and adjust the wheel that controls the shutter speed to get the mark in the middle. If its underexposed, then may be I'll up the ISO. The whole deal is a balance between the triangle of aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Just a short tutorial I found by googling
http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/shutterandaperture.php
 
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Neil, no, not essential, but it saves a load of messing around and gives consistency when working. Hit one button, dial in the settings and you are good to go. If you use the guess work method (I used to) you are going to keep playing around and if you are exposing for skin then it's not always easy to get spot on..... sure you can do it in post but again you are wasting time.
 
Hey Mike! I always shoot manual so hopefully i can help clear things up a little.


Now when shooting in manual you've got 3 things to consider:

ISO
Aperture
Shutter Speed

For me, i always start off with the shutter speed first.

I choose a shutter speed which is going to capture the motion for me, without any blurr ( so making sure it's fast enough ). So choose a speed, take a shot, and see if it's fast enough.


When you look through the viewfinder you'll see this little green needle at the bottom, along some scales. Your aim is to get that needle in the centre, for a correct exposure.



I always try keep the ISO as low as possible - as with my 20D ( and your 500D ) you'll get a bit more noise at higher ISO's.

If the needle is still way below the middle ( meaning underexposure ) then open up the aperture a bit ( smaller f number ). If after opening that up as far as you can go it is still underexposed, then increase the ISO a bit until the needle is in the middle.

( Do the opposite if you have overexposure ) ( Ie, needle too far right )



It's quite hard to explain, but you'll see what i mean when you do it. It really depends on what your shooting.

For example, the way i just told you - i would do for motorsport because the shutter speed is key in my shots. Hence why i then work on the aperture and if at last resorts the ISO to get the needle in the middle.

I hope that's not too confusing!

Adam.

:canon:
 
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I am surprised nobody has mentioned checking the histogram whilst in manual as well :shrug: Yes your little needle in the middle Mike might well be over or under, but depending on the scene or subject it may not be that critical. The most important thing imo is to push your camera to the limits of ISO first, this will be your starting point for future shots, you can then work the shutter and aperture around that.
 
u8myufo said:
I am surprised nobody has mentioned checking the histogram whilst in manual as well :shrug: Yes your little needle in the middle Mike might well be over or under, but depending on the scene or subject it may not be that critical. The most important thing imo is to push your camera to the limits of ISO first, this will be your starting point for future shots, you can then work the shutter and aperture around that.
Click to expand...

that only works in live view or after you have taken the photo on most camera's though, so not that feasible an option
 
There are two things you need to be aware of:

The first is the exposure triangle of ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture there are a number of combinations for each Exposure Value. If you alter one, you have to alter one or both of the others to get the same exposure value.

You alter those required to get the result you want.

The second is that the camera meter does not know what you are pointing it at and as it is typically calibrated against an average grey (typically between 12% & 18%) if you point it at any other tone you will get an incorrect exposure.

You need to know what tone you are metering from and how to adjust the settings to get the camera to expose it as seen.
 
well that defo has it, both in the viewfinder and on the top screen. its a little bar that has -2 to +2 ON IT AND AS YOU CHANGE SETTINGS AND EXPOSE it will move (sorry for the caps, keyboard error)

p.s good avatar by the way, im a fan of the ale myself
 
When you look through the view finder on the bottom you should see a number of lines and a little arrow moving up and down the line, This is telling you the current exposure of subject.

So for an example....

You’re taking a shot of a glass cup...
You know this cup is not going to move and you may want a nice DOF...
Set the Aperture to your required stop...say 5.0. ( or low if you can)
now set you shutter to say around 1/80 - 1/100
You should start to see the arrow move up or down the line in the view finder...
You need to aim the arrow for around the centre...
If you find the arrow is still not showing up then is could be the lighting...so up the ISO...indoors I normally aim for 800 depending on the light.

see what happens anyway,
 
Isn't aiming to get the exposure indicator in the middle just adjusting the relevant settings to equate to exactly what the camera would have chosen (probably faster) if in an aperture or shutter priority?
I can see times when you know you want a certain shutter speed and a certain DOF so using manual and adjusting the ISO to make it central would work.
Normally though I just use either shutter or aperture priority and most often I use exposure compensation so that I don't get the equivalent of the cameras chosen correct exposure. Maybe my camera meter is just rubbish :)
 
joescrivens said:
well that defo has it, both in the viewfinder and on the top screen. its a little bar that has -2 to +2 ON IT AND AS YOU CHANGE SETTINGS AND EXPOSE it will move (sorry for the caps, keyboard error)

p.s good avatar by the way, im a fan of the ale myself
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I can see the bar but the indicator flashes and I can't make it move, must find the manual.

It's a great ale, makes a vital contribution to my waistline:)
 
footman said:
Hmmm, I can see the bar but the indicator flashes and I can't make it move, must find the manual.

It's a great ale, makes a vital contribution to my waistline:)
Click to expand...

make sure you press the shutter half way, or af on if you use it to sample the light and set the exposure first, then move the shutter dial, it should move across unless it is well out in which case it will be either past -2 or +2.

i rank that ale along with bombadier and directors courage as ones you can always fall back on for consistent excellence!
 
Almost_Invisible said:
Isn't aiming to get the exposure indicator in the middle just adjusting the relevant settings to equate to exactly what the camera would have chosen (probably faster) if in an aperture or shutter priority?
Click to expand...

pretty much, and it's mainly why i use AV instead of manual, one less thing to adjust.
 
Almost_Invisible said:
Isn't aiming to get the exposure indicator in the middle just adjusting the relevant settings to equate to exactly what the camera would have chosen (probably faster) if in an aperture or shutter priority?
Click to expand...

Yes, and then using exposure compensation in A or S is equivalent to setting the indicator the relevant number of stops away from centre.

However - if you have a scene where the exposure varies significantly, and you want to take a set of shots all consistently exposed, then in A or S the camera will re-meter every time, but in M you set it once and know it will be the same for all shots.
 
Almost_Invisible said:
Isn't aiming to get the exposure indicator in the middle just adjusting the relevant settings to equate to exactly what the camera would have chosen (probably faster) if in an aperture or shutter priority?
I can see times when you know you want a certain shutter speed and a certain DOF so using manual and adjusting the ISO to make it central would work.
Normally though I just use either shutter or aperture priority and most often I use exposure compensation so that I don't get the equivalent of the cameras chosen correct exposure. Maybe my camera meter is just rubbish :)
Click to expand...

This is a good point.

I was starting to get it - pick one option to start with depending on what you are shooting, aperture or shutter, then ajust the other to get the needle in the centre. That seemed simple enough! I thought you had to memorize shutter and aperture combinations for all light conditions!!

If its as simple as getting the exposure needle in the centre, whats the point of Manual when Av or Tv or Program for that matter, all get the needle to the centre quicker?!

Thanks for all the replies though, some really good info and helpful advice:)
 
Mike410 said:
This is a good point.

I was starting to get it - pick one option to start with depending on what you are shooting, aperture or shutter, then ajust the other to get the needle in the centre. That seemed simple enough! I thought you had to memorize shutter and aperture combinations for all light conditions!!

If its as simple as getting the exposure needle in the centre, whats the point of Manual when Av or Tv or Program for that matter, all get the needle to the centre quicker?!

Thanks for all the replies though, some really good info and helpful advice:)
Click to expand...

Because if you choose certain apertures in AV but you want a specific shutter speed for example - it might be blurry because it'll have chosen a shutter speed that's really slow and opened up the aperture so that the needle's in the middle.

If you were in TV for example aswell - you choose the shutter speed - but the pictures might be underexposed/overexposed because the camera's having to adjust the aperture and ISO - but might not to be able to adjust them enough , so it's better to adjust it yourself so it's perfect. Plus, the needle isn't precisely right as it chooses specific points to get the exposure from - where as your own eye is better trained to make the correct decision on exposure.

Forget what people say ( includng what i said ! ) about the needle - the needle is only a guide.

Adam.
 
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Faldrax said:
Yes, and then using exposure compensation in A or S is equivalent to setting the indicator the relevant number of stops away from centre.

However - if you have a scene where the exposure varies significantly, and you want to take a set of shots all consistently exposed, then in A or S the camera will re-meter every time, but in M you set it once and know it will be the same for all shots.
Click to expand...

True, in those scenarios I would use what on my camera is called AEL lock (no idea what other cameras call it sorry) where I use the central focus point (my camera settings mean it does not meter on any other focus point) and the exposure is then locked for all shots until I tell it to unlock.

No prizes for guessing how often I forget to tell it to unlock :bonk:
 
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Almost_Invisible said:
True, in those scenarios I would use what on my camera is called AEL lock (no idea what other cameras call it sorry) where I use the central focus point (my camera settings mean it does not meter on any other focus point) and the exposure is then locked for all shots until I tell it to unlock.

No prizes for guessing how often I forget to tell it to unlock :bonk:
Click to expand...

It's AEL on the Sony's as well - I used to use it a lot on my A200 to chose what to set the exposure from, then when I got the A700 with dual dials I found it easier to use A or S with the back dial for exposure comp, then started to use M with A on front, S on rear dial - and by that time had forgotten about using AEL :lol:
 
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