How to be a stealthy (like a ninja) when taking pictures of strangers.

[Marino]

Share your experience and tips here.
Everyone has developed their style/method to avoid been seen when taking a picture.
What’s your advice/tips?
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Yesterday I’ve realised (yeah I know it took me a while) the best way to go unnoticed is by having the most inconspicuous camera.
My newly acquired camera is an Olympus xa3(film). People didn’t seem to care when I pointed that thing at them .
So..
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1)So In my opinion compact cameras seem to be the best tool for the job. Some use smartphones, which is like a compact. Personally I’m not a fan but in street “the moment” is more important than the quality of the image.


2) The confused “happy snapper” behaviour (AKA Garry Winogrand style). Can’t explain it but here’s the most awkward yet most effective method . It doesn’t take any practice since the less you practice it the more awkward you look (that’s what it’s all about): https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxqEUP4f8gEy_i1bPoGLy8dE9r24Bc183q?si=PLhNt679QCuZlH05
I find it the best for close ups of people.

3) the “cowboy stare”.

This one is my favourite and use it most of the time. I squint, stare into the far distance like a cowboy and snap. People can’t tell if I’m spaced out, taking a picture of them or something else.As long as I keep that cowboy look on my face and pretend to take a picture of something else (even after taking the picture) I’m good. For this to work you have to avoid eye contact with the person you’re taking picture of.

Well then, what about you?
Are you the ninja type or the straight forward type of street snapper?
If you’re one of us, share your thoughts

 

[gramps]

I use a Ricoh GRiii (and now iiix) which is discreet but the main reason for using it is for its convenience ... I've used Olympus & Leica as well.
I'm never the 'confused tourist' nor am I a squinter ... I will sometimes look past the subject and I will sometimes look at them and smile or comment like 'love the hat/beard/dog' etc.
I rarely use the camera up at my face, it's often at my waist and I guess some might think I am walking whilst videoing.
I think that you can be visually upfront just as easy as you can be secretive ... sometimes it's easy to just blend in and shoot.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Stay well back and use a long lens. A waist level finder also helps...

 

[Sky]

A waist level viewfinder works for me - Nikon F3 or Hasselblad 500.

I don't photograph strangers with digital very often.

 

[Marino]

I think that you can be visually upfront just as easy as you can be secretive ... sometimes it's easy to just blend in and shoot.

I find that sometimes when I’m “seen” it kinda Ruins the picture. For example when someone looks at me and smiles . You’re really stealthy with that Ricoh and I’ve seen it many times at your pictures. Do you take pictures in single or continuous shooting mode?

@AndrewFlannigan the only thing I don’t like about focal lengths over 50mm is that the perspective changes to the point that limits me somehow. But that’s definitely one way to be stealthy!

… Hasselblad 500.

That’s definitely not the way to go unnoticed
I wanted to try that in the past with a bronica S2 but got so confused with the way the projected image was upside down in the viewfinder. I ended up giving up on it.
There’s a member here with some excellent street portraits of strangers that have a lovely aesthetic to them.

I don't photograph strangers with digital very often.

why’s that?
I prefer film too for street btw. Not really sure why.

 

[gramps]

I find that sometimes when I’m “seen” it kinda Ruins the picture. For example when someone looks at me and smiles . You’re really stealthy with that Ricoh and I’ve seen it many times at your pictures. Do you take pictures in single or continuous shooting mode?

Thanks.
Mostly I’m only noticed with ‘I wonder?’ after the event, though sometimes being noticed at the time is a positive …



I only shoot in single mode.

 

[Sky]

That’s definitely not the way to go unnoticed
I wanted to try that in the past with a bronica S2 but got so confused with the way the projected image was upside down in the viewfinder. I ended up giving up on it.

LOL! I'm sure most people don't even realise it's a camera sat on my lap. Most people look the other way when they see someone in a wheelchair anyway, so I could probably get away with pointing it straight at them, but I don't like to do that unless I'm invited to.

It only takes a bit of practice to get used to the image being flipped - you should have stuck with it. I have a full Bronica ETRSi kit I shall be putting in the Classifieds soon.

why’s that?
I prefer film too for street btw. Not really sure why.

I don't know - weird huh? I'm glad it's not just me.

Digital is brilliant for detail and ease of use, but it just lacks 'character' for me and just feels a little 'cold'.

 

[gman]

It's been a long time since I've done any street photography, but a little trick I occasionally used if the subject looked like they could turn unpleasant and create a scene would be to take the shot, but then pull the camera away and look beyond them, so it would look as though I was actually waiting for them to move out of the way so that I could photograph something beyond them. I would then take a few shots once they were out of the way to complete the ruse.

Doesn't really work on stationary subjects though lol

 

[LeeRatters]

Ummmmmm. I seem to take most of mine through the viewfinder. My 'hip' shooting needs some practice as I usually aim too low & chop heads off

I've never done the fumbling thing, probably never would I don't think. Sometimes will make it look like I'm shooting beyond the person though - I find that works well with the focal length of the X100f and you can easily put them on a third if you are following that rule I don't always follow rules. I also tend to walk through busy areas with the camera held up near to my chest or even higher sometimes and I'll quite often look through it whilst walking even if I'm not taking a shot. Just gets the mood & feeling going imo and moving it to the eye to compose/shoot is both quicker and not as easily noticed. Also to keep looking through the camera after you've taken the shot & the subject has noticed you/walked past - they hopefully then just think you are shooting the scene behind them. This would probably work well in nice harbourside areas and places like Bath for example.

I also think footwork is important for me, I do like to be constantly moving typically and I will just loop around & around the same area. I don't tend to pick a scene & sit there waiting though - I guess I would if I thought something would work, but I haven't really done that so far.

 

[Marino]

It only takes a bit of practice to get used to the image being flipped - you should have stuck with it. I have a full Bronica ETRSi kit I shall be putting in the Classifieds soon.

Nope, not going down that path again I'm happy with the dinosaurs the folding cameras.

I don't know - weird huh? I'm glad it's not just me.

Digital is brilliant for detail and ease of use, but it just lacks 'character' for me and just feels a little 'cold'.

Yeah, I suppose it's not just the final result, the picture( which ends up Digital here anyway)but the whole process. Anyway that's a different subject altogether

Ummmmmm. I seem to take most of mine through the viewfinder. My 'hip' shooting needs some practice as I usually aim too low & chop heads off

I used to think it's silly to shoot without looking through the viewfinder but a member posted recently A yputuber with some excellent results. Yes it was @Kell I remembered . Not everyone's cup of tea but it works and it's the least Intrusive way to photograph strangers.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

There are fewer waist level digital finders these days but there were several in the early days of digital.

The classics were the Coolpix series from Nikon and I still have two.

The 990 was presented as part of a fairly extensive system which included a fisheye (on the right in this picture)...



and the last of the line, the very compact S10 with its 10X zoom...



However, in my opinion, the king of the waist level digital cameras was Sony's R1, with both digital eye level and top mounted finders. The top mounted unit could be set to almost any angle or fold flat, a la TLR style...



...being an idiot, I sold mine. However, I still have its (very) little brother the ultra compact HX90, with its fold up screen and a usefull 24mm to 720mm (equivalent) lens...



There are still a few cameras available that offer a waist level, digital photography experience, for those who would like to try it

 

[benc98]

The thing about being stealthy, imo most people don't notice you anyway, they don't care that you're making pictures.. you're not the 'main character' when you're out in public making pictures - but we tell ourselves the opposite. Sometimes giving off 'stealthy' vibes makes you stick out more, especially if you're awkward about it.

I practice most approaches mentioned

 

[Kell]

I used to think it's silly to shoot without looking through the viewfinder but a member posted recently A yputuber with some excellent results. Yes it was @Kell I remembered . Not everyone's cup of tea but it works and it's the least Intrusive way to photograph strangers.

I think that a lot of that technique seems to rely on two things.

1: zonal focusing
2: practice

I was using a combo of a digital body with manual focus film lenses. So could set up zonal focusing easily. Judging distance was quite hard.

Like most things though it’s point 2 that will net the best results. Certainly on my one-foray into it, I found it much easier to be entirely unobtrusive when taking shots of people to my right. And yet massively awkward trying to engineer myself into position to take shots of people to my left.

 

[d00d]

It's good to get in close. I've developed a habit of, instead of moving toward the subject, position yourself and wait for the subject to walk to you. That way you are not invading someone's personal space, they are invading yours. HaHa ...

 

[LeeRatters]

I think that a lot of that technique seems to rely on two things.

1: zonal focusing
2: practice

I was using a combo of a digital body with manual focus film lenses. So could set up zonal focusing easily. Judging distance was quite hard.

Like most things though it’s point 2 that will net the best results. Certainly on my one-foray into it, I found it much easier to be entirely unobtrusive when taking shots of people to my right. And yet massively awkward trying to engineer myself into position to take shots of people to my left.

I don't know if you use a zoom or prime or which focal length. But you can get a fairly good guess on distance by how much of the frame the person takes up. Full body might be 3m. Upper body might be around 2m. Obviously this depends on your style to and how much 'environment' you want included. I tend to be around 2.5 - 3m I think on average.

 

[Harlequin565]

Sometimes giving off 'stealthy' vibes makes you stick out more, especially if you're awkward about it

I agree with this. If you're trying to be sneaky, you're going to look sneaky if you get spotted. I know others use telephoto lenses, but to me, it seems creepy. I feel it's the same as waist level shooting which is unpredictable in terms of results.

Personally, my most relaxed street photography day out was with a Rolleiflex K4B. Looking down at a WLF is naturally unobtrusive. No need to hide, no need to look dodgy. Second best is to find a spot and stand still. When I do that I find I get a feel for what's going on in the space and how my lens will frame it. With a prefocussed manual lens (or a snap-focussed GR3), it's just camera-to-eye-and-shoot.

Also, as mentioned above, a friendly, open attitude goes a long way. Being able to answer "what are you doing?" questions with a reasonable answer rather than a defensive "I don't have to tell you" response will mean most people will just shrug and get on with their day. I've not had one person react negatively to my street photography, a few people have stopped and asked - most get bored within about ten seconds. This helps build confidence which reduces the need for furtiveness.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

If you're trying to be sneaky, you're going to look sneaky if you get spotted.

The entire point of such candid photography is not to be spotted and never to become part of the scene being recorded.

The same process is used by wildlife photographers all the time. Very few approach their subjects, if it is likely to affect the subjects' behaviour.

... which reduces the need for furtiveness.

Furtiveness should have nothing to do with candid photography. Once again, as with wildlife photography, having been spotted you have affected the subject and it's time to move on.

 

[Raymond Lin]

Don't hide, just pick it up and point it at where you want.

And be REALLY obvious about it, I would even hold the camera there for longer than necessary too, like if someone thinks you are taking a photo of them, you hold it there and it looks like you are waiting for them to get out of the frame.

 

[JonnyWhitters]

Don't hide, just pick it up and point it at where you want.

And be REALLY obvious about it, I would even hold the camera there for longer than necessary too, like if someone thinks you are taking a photo of them, you hold it there and it looks like you are waiting for them to get out of the frame.

Agree. I've had quite a few people notice me and then apologise and go to move out of the way. Little did they realise they'd already been snapped as it was them I wanted, not the mundane building in the background.

 

[gramps]

How about street photography with a Mamiya RZ67 Pro II on a tripod!

 

[d00d]

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[Marino]

How about street photography with a Mamiya RZ67 Pro II on a tripod!

That’s dedication there, most pictures look like studio photos. Completely different type of street photography. His energy is so calm that it shows in people’s faces. Thx for sharing

 

[Merlin5]

Stay well back and use a long lens.

No. Long lenses are for paparazzi, voyeurs and wildlife photographers. 24, 28, 35, 40, 50mm are the best and most commonly used for street. Wider is better such as 28mm. It forces you to get closer and teaches you to find interesting compositions and framing in just a few moments with no need to crop in post or with minimal cropping. As discussed in this thread, there are many ways to be really close to your subjects you want to take photos of and still be stealthy.

I can always see when someone used a lens longer than 50mm such as an 85 up to say about 300mm lens, it has a magnified look, an obvious zoomed in aesthetic. I can tell the people are far away. There's a look of compression to the background scenery and no emotional connection to the person or people captured in the frame. No true immersion, no intimacy. They're often heavily cropped as well to bring the faces even closer to make up for the fact that the photographer wasn't close enough in the first place.

There have been exceptions such as Saul Leiter, I think he used 85mm but he had a beautiful painterly style which worked for him. Other than that, good street photos come from being physically at a scene and zooming with your feet, putting the viewer right there where you were, not sniping from 20 feet away. You're more likely to capture fleeting moments by being right there in the moment (and ideally using zone focusing) whereas you'll probably miss most of those by the time you get a telephoto lens in focus.

Sorry if I went a bit off topic.

 

[Pound Coin]

I think if the OP question is to be taken at face value, and stealthy images of strangers is the key, then a long lens, and some curtains to hide behind.

If it is Street Photography, then it is interesting images (usually including people) that have lighting, timing and composition that make the viewer linger as they look at the image. It is better if the viewer feels engaged, immersed, almost there.

The photographer needs to be comfortable, and this is best achieved with practice. Locations help a lot, places where someone with a camera is not unusual, or people are less likely to ‘notice’ a photographer. Cities, rather than villages. Looking past the subject is good, as is carrying on ‘taking the shot’ after appearing to wait for people to get out of the way. Zone focussing is really useful technique, as is having an aperture that gives you dof leeway. Wider lenses are more forgiving of slightly off focus, as are smaller sensor cameras.

 

[Kell]

I don't know if you use a zoom or prime or which focal length. But you can get a fairly good guess on distance by how much of the frame the person takes up. Full body might be 3m. Upper body might be around 2m. Obviously this depends on your style to and how much 'environment' you want included. I tend to be around 2.5 - 3m I think on average.

Just seen this response. Part of the technique that I was following was not looking through the viewfinder.

From memory I set it up with f/8 and pre-focused the (manual) lens to about 3m or so. But the point was that you kept it to your chest and didn't look through the viewfinder.