That's more or less what I was trying to say.
I did understand what you were saying and it's not your fault that this difference in definition is there to cause these disagreements. The definition or general understanding of what HDR is when someone mentions it is not very well defined. I say HDR and you think of a true unprocessed HDR image (32 bit) but the next person thinks of the kind of HDR images that fill out the explore pages on Flickr. When I say HDR I'm referring to the kind of HDR images that fill out the explore pages on Flickr. To me true HDR is the HDR images that have been created using multiple bracketed exposures. The ones that haven't are the 'pseudo HDR' or just tone mapped images.
I apologise for my 'sigh' comment, I was very stressed at the time and while that is not an excuse, it is my reason for being an arse.
Apology accepted. We can all get stressed and I know not everyone deals with stress the same way.
What I'm trying to say is, yes I know most of the 'hdr' images you see are achieved using a high dynamic range process, and that they are achieved using the true way of creating an HDR image. However, a 'true hdr' image is 32 bits, which must then be tone-mapped down to be displayable.
Exactly, the definitions are getting crossed. I've seen people like Pete Carr telling people that an image isn't a 'true HDR' because it was created from a single image, so it isn't a true HDR. Which is where I have picked up the term from. You are correct as well, that the unprocessed (32 bit) HDR image is also referred to as true HDR. Ideally we could do with one of these two being renamed. As I said above I have seen the HDR images that have been tone mapped from a single image being called 'pseudo HDR' lately so maybe we can come up with a more suitable term for the processed HDR images that have been created from multiple bracketed exposures. Maybe 'Full HDR' or something? That way it would stop the confusion.
What I mean by true hdr is the absolutely raw image before the tone mapping process.
What I think you mean by true hdr is a tone-mapped image achieved by using the hdr process.
Yeah, I understand that you mean that. I don't quite mean that though. What I am calling true HDR is the tone-mapped image achieved by using the hdr process on three or more images with bracketed exposures. The other HDR images, the ones that are more recently being called 'pseudo HDR' are also tone-mapped images achieved by using the hdr process but they are done on copies of the same image that have been exposed differently. I assure you that you can adjust the exposure in post processing for a Raw file, if you use photoshop there is an 'exposure' slider in ACR when you open a Raw file and in LR there is an 'exposure' slider in the 'Development' area. It only goes so far though. You can get around 1 to 2 stops under and 1 to 2 stops over the exposure that was actually used. If you open a high contrast scene (landscape with a nice sky?) that was captured in Raw and adjust the 'exposure' slider you will see that detail can actually be brought out in the highlights by lowering the exposure and brought out in the shadows by raising the exposure. All you do to create a HDR from a single image is open the Raw file, lower the exposure by 1 stop under, save the result. Open the same Raw file again and process it with the correct exposure that the image was taken with and save that result. Open the same Raw file again and process it with 1 stop over exposure and save that result. You'll then have the three copies that I was talking about and each of them has been exposed differently, you can now use those three images to create an HDR in photomatix or whatever.
As far as the raw goes, I did not know you could change the exposure and I still don't believe you can. It is like a 35mm negative, once it's done, it's done, but you can still over/underexpose your print depending on what you want to bring details out in...
I always saw JPEG as a flat piece of paper. Raw is a thicker piece of paper with a lot more detail. But you can't get information from that piece of paper if it isn't there.
No, it's not like the 35mm negative in that way. JPEG is but Raw isn't, with Raw the settings that are used on the camera to capture the image (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) are only used as a guide for the Raw processing software to start at, you can then adjust the exposure up or down using the software. JPEG locks the exposure in to the settings that are used on the camera as it's processed in the camera. Raw is processed on the PC, all the data that the camera's sensor captured is still in the Raw file for you to use. That's the absolute best reason for using Raw in the first place.
This topic discusses processing Raw files and adjusting the exposure.
I took this quick snap to show you exactly what I mean. I think this shows vividly the main reason for using Raw in the first place. I deliberately over exposed this fabulous shot of my mates feet by a mile.
As you can see it is well and truly over exposed. I did this on purpose so that the detail would be totally lost in the paving, highlights, etc. In the next image below is what you would normally be able to rescue from a JPEG image (or from a Raw if you couldn't adjust the exposure

) by lowering the brightness and adjusting the levels. I created this image by saving the Raw file as it was, with no exposure change, as a JPEG and then adjusting the brightness/levels in the JPEG.
Notice that there is no more detail brought back in the paving or any of the highlights. The colour of the skin has also gone way off too because of the adjustments. Obviously if this was an image you really wanted and you had over exposed it by mistake and were using JPEG it would be ruined and lost.
Now this next image is the same Raw file but this time I lowered the 'exposure' slider in LR by 1 stop. I've not adjusted anything else.
You can see how some of the detail in the paving has been brought back as well as in the other highlights. The original Raw was very over exposed though so 1 stop hasn't really given us a usable image from this level of over exposure. If the original image hadn't been so over exposed then this could well have been enough though.
This final image is the same Raw file again but this time I lowered the 'exposure' slider in LR by 2 stops. I've not adjusted anything else.
You can now see much more detail in the paving and the highlights. Raw has enabled me to take a well over exposed image and lower the exposure by 2 full stops from that used to capture the image, giving us a much more usable image. This simply could not have been done using JPEG and it's the main reason I choose to shoot in Raw.
Hopefully you can now see that the exposure can indeed be changed after the image is captured when shooting in Raw.

It works the same way for bringing detail back in the shadows on under exposed images. Try it , it's a very simple thing to test out for yourself and you will see the same difference in your images.
And also, if you are saying you can change the exposure of a raw, then surely by increasing/decreasing the exposure by 1/2/3 stops you can create a 'true hdr' image?
This is where the 'True HDR' (or should that now be 'Full HDR'

) and 'Pseudo HDR' argument comes into the mix. You can indeed create HDR images from one single image this way but they are not considered 'True/Full HDR'. The HDR images created by adjusting the exposure in post processing and creating three differently exposed images from one image and then tone mapping those images are those HDR's that are being called 'Pseudo HDR' images or that are said to be just tone mapped and not 'True/Full HDR'. The only difference being that 'True/Full HDR' images are created by separate, bracketed images. To be honest in the end it doesn't really matter though. What matters is if you like the end result not how you got there.
I will say that using the single image trick to get HDR images tends to produce the popular 'fantasy' look very easily but it is much harder to get a 'real world' look and it doesn't give you as much detail in the highlights/shadows as a 'True/Full HDR' does on scenes with really high contrast. The 'True/Full HDR' image tends to produce 'real world' looking HDR's much more easily, though you can still get the 'fantasy' look if that's what you want, and the highlights/shadows on scenes with really high contrast tend to have more detail.