How does one get such crisp landscape photographs?

To be honest its was another togs words of advice to me. He is a super successful photographer so i took his word as gospel.
Not saying its right just waht i shoot for landscape.
 
Gavlar82 said:
To be honest its was another togs words of advice to me. He is a super successful photographer so i took his word as gospel.
Not saying its right just waht i shoot for landscape.
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Well that is fair enough then mate. I work with a very good photographer so I tend to be bias against what he says as I can see the results. So if your happy with ya shots keep on snapping ;)
 
I find solid tripod helps..foveon sensor lol had to get that one in...a nice zeiss lens will help and maybe one of the new sigma art lenses are very sharp....f5.6 to around f9 depending on your focal lenth ie 75mm I would make sure shutter speed is around 100th sec .correct composition..change exposure ,iso 100 if a sunny day 10sec timer in case of movement ,the slightest movement can cause shake ..
 
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I don't know why there has been so many mentions of photoshop. You ought to be doing your pp sharpening in something like Lightroom, Apeture and the like.
 
IMO Photoshop sharpening is FAR superior to that of Lightroom!
 
pwynn-mackenzie said:
But surely if you have everything in focus at F11 then that is going to be better than F16 isn't. Other than creating star burst or wanting a slightly longer shutter speed without the benefit of ND filters shooting at F16 would just be pointless compared to F11 or F9 etc (this is pending everything is in focus at F11). Once something is sharp and in focus then it can't be more in focus...
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True, but if you have very close FG and a far mountain, F11 will not give the DoF you need. If everything if is can be in focus at F11, then thats's to use, if you need F16 to get the depth, thats what to use.

I use as wide an aperature as possible to get all in focus, but F11 sometimes is too wide.
 
I think lightroom sharpening is better...infact I think they use the same algorithm so may be wrong there
 
ST4 said:
True, but if you have very close FG and a far mountain, F11 will not give the DoF you need. If everything if is can be in focus at F11, then thats's to use, if you need F16 to get the depth, thats what to use.

I use as wide an aperature as possible to get all in focus, but F11 sometimes is too wide.
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Just to say, I guess you mean you use a "small" aperture f11 and f16 are very small apertures.
the larger the number the smaller the aperture.
 
I use hyperfocal distancing. It depends on your focal length and your sensor size.

With my landscape lens and camera (21mm on FF) I can set to f5.6, focus at 2.62m which will give me a sharp image from 1.31m to infinity. Just depends on foreground interest. If its a low down shot with rocks etc I'll set my lens to f8, f11......
 
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don't manual focus. you could have auto focused on the guy and re-composed type thing - if that was your intention
 
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markmullen said:
Your optimum ISO will depend on the body, my 5D3 it is 100 whereas my digital back is 25, some Nikons won't go as low as 100 for example.
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For my Olympus it is ISO200 to get best dynamic range.
 
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