How can I set my camera to take a 2 minute exposure?

having no luck with links today, will scout about and see if i can find anything
 
whitey,

Thank you, big time; but you really aren't having that much luck with links today :shrug:.

The one you've just linked, from Canada I beleive, seems to "Item offered is used, as shown and may require service, or repair to ensure item can be used for it's intended purpose".

I have to say, I am feeling very inclined to go with the MC-36; as I know I can pick one up from the photostore down town.

I can't thank you enough, for all the hunting, and for the links :)
 
Wail said:
I have to say, I am feeling very inclined to go with the MC-36; as I know I can pick one up from the photostore down town.

I can't thank you enough, for all the hunting, and for the links :)
Click to expand...

It's a fair bit of cash but I really like mine. You won't regret it :)
 
Glad to know that. It is always a toss-up between which to get, the cheaper ones from ebay or the original ones :shrug:. The price difference is huge.

I've made it a habit to try and not skimp on paying for quality stuff, but sometimes it is hard; as is the case here. The price difference is a 4x magnitude :eek:
 
Buy the cheap one...I did....off Ebay and they're great. I've got the Canon equivalent and confirm you can programme in hours, minutes and seconds in bulb mode to suit.

It even beeps quietly every second when holding the button manually so you can count the seconds.
 
I have an MC-36 myself.

You could just do multiple exposures, 4 x 30s and then stack them in your processing app of choice, or in camera (though I'm not sure if you can do 4). If you don't want to be around, use the built in intervalometer to take 4 exposures with a 0 second gap between them.
 
I was looking at a project to have a play with and have found a self build USB kit. You buy the kit either already assembled or as a bag of components.

I was thinking of writing a program that allows you to take an old remote, cut off the switch and connect the wires to the output relays on the USB board then you can control the shutter and focus from the computer. Using the inputs on the USB board would allow you to trigger things using a movement sensor or such too.

This would allow time lapse photography, any shutter speed you like etc etc and the software is easy enough because I have already written software to control this board before. The unfortunate thing is that the libraries for the USB board are for Windows only so the software would be Windows only too.

I will dig out the board and we can have a look at it. You can build boards to use for inputs from RS/Maplin etc any board that takes a physical input such as a beam breaker which sounds an alarm. You just need to attach the wires from the sounder across the inputs. I will explain later......

Anyone really interested in this project let me know as I will be needing one or two testers.........
 
In fact I have just dug the board out and will start a thread about this project.....
 
cowasaki,

You never cease to amaze me :).

This project of yours; very interested in it, I am.
 
Lomond Lad said:
Buy the cheap one...I did....off Ebay and they're great. I've got the Canon equivalent and confirm you can programme in hours, minutes and seconds in bulb mode to suit.

It even beeps quietly every second when holding the button manually so you can count the seconds.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I may do that .. but I am much more comfortable to go with the original one. Though, at 4x the price it is a bit of a pinch in my pocket.



Blapto said:
I have an MC-36 myself.

You could just do multiple exposures, 4 x 30s and then stack them in your processing app of choice, or in camera (though I'm not sure if you can do 4). If you don't want to be around, use the built in intervalometer to take 4 exposures with a 0 second gap between them.
Click to expand...

Now this is creative indeed, and I like the idea. Although, I am not too keen on any post-processing; so, in a way, this is ruled-out for my style.

Thank you for the idea :thumbs:
 
I wouldn't say it was post-processing to be honest. Saying it is is like saying vegetarians shouldn't eat veggie burgers ;).

Cowasaki, the pinout for the connector is pretty simple, the shutter is just making a single pin high for the duration of the exposure. You could probably do it with a potentiometer + 555 and make a dial out of a post it note :D.
 
MC-36 all the way i was using mine lastnight after talking to you about it yesterday and the battery finally ran out thats was a good 3-4 months and plenty clicks
 
Wail said:
True!

However, I tend to try and bracket my shots to get the "best fit". So, the +/- 10" will mean that my bracketing is of no use since they may all end-up being the same duration :bang:

Of course, it would be great if I could get the shot wonderful without bracketing :shrug:, but that's not so easy.
Click to expand...

Does the LCD not count up the bulb exposure, my 20D has that feature. For getting the right exposure just whack up the iso to your max, use the camera's meter to meter for the exposure take a test shot to see how it turns out then just calculate the exposure from that by counting the stops.

example:
iso3200 4sec @f8 gives you a good exposure then you just gotta count down the stops to iso100
iso1600 = 8sec
iso800 = 16sec
iso400 = 32sec
iso200 = 65sec
iso100 = 130sec

That's what I've always done with very long exposures (done up to 12min for IR shots). Being terribly accurate with long exposures inst necessary as stated going +/- 10 sec would have little effect on the exposure at those lengths.
 
Oh! I didn't know it would need a battery :thinking:

Why would it need one? Would it not just draw power off the camera?
 
mole2k said:
Does the LCD not count up the bulb exposure, my 20D has that feature. For getting the right exposure just whack up the iso to your max, use the camera's meter to meter for the exposure take a test shot to see how it turns out then just calculate the exposure from that by counting the stops.

example:
iso3200 4sec @f8 gives you a good exposure then you just gotta count down the stops to iso100
iso1600 = 8sec
iso800 = 16sec
iso400 = 32sec
iso200 = 65sec
iso100 = 130sec

That's what I've always done with very long exposures (done up to 12min for IR shots). Being terribly accurate with long exposures inst necessary as stated going +/- 10 sec would have little effect on the exposure at those lengths.
Click to expand...


Thank you :thumbs:

That is a very clever way to work this out. Only, it takes some little brain-power, while my photography is mainly to switch my brains off as much as possible (if at all possible).

Still, it's something to keep in mind tomorrow, as I am going out to do more long exposure shots :)

Again, thank you for this explanation.
 
If you have your camera set up to adjust everything in full stops (Nikon lets you choose between full, 1/2 and 1/3rd for some things) it could be as simple as every click of the wheel with ISO held down = a click of the wheel for the shutter speed.

I know my MC-36 remote takes batteries but after a solid 6 months use, maybe more, I don't even know what size they are - I've never had to replace them.
 
I have my camera set to 1/3 stops. Gives me more control, as I sometimes need just a slight adjustments when bracketing, or when increasing ISO etc.

I am not concerned about the battery, just that I didn't expect it to have one and would have rather it didn't. Still, not a worrying factor.
 
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