Garry Edwards
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Prompted by this post by Tomas Whitehouse
With all due respect Garry, I'm not convinced that your feelings on the subject are balanced, I still feel that as you have access to gear the rest of us mortals don't have so freely, you don't consider the capabilities very fairly.
If you have a closer look at Dustin's work, studio flashes would make his project close to impossible, especially considering his commitments and daily routine aside of the project itself.
http://photography.dustindiaz.com/
Have a look at this picture:
http://bighugelabs.com/flickr/onblac...596&size=large
Our tastes my differ but I'm sure you can appreciate that it's one damn fine piece of photography?
Taken from this thread http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=141593 - Ive started a new thread because I dont want to hijack the other one.
Let me set out my stall
Im not against using hotshoe flashes. Great bits of kit, especially for those of us who use the Nikon system, which I believe to be by far the best when it comes to hotshoe flash.
And a great way of creating light, especially for photojournalists and others who need to shoot on location without the need to carry around delicate and heavy alternatives, and for whom the need to create some kind of lighting any kind of lighting is what really matters. Thats why the Strobist approach was developed, even if not by the site that promotes it so well.
But the approach has developed beyond all recognition and is now hailed as an alternative to studio lighting, with very complicated (and very expensive) flash equipment, a multitude of top-end radio triggers, and fingers of both hands firmly crossed, hoping that the complicated linking systems all actually work Of course, not everyone advocates using a host of overpriced branded hotshoe flashes, there are others who do wonderful work using a collection of cheap and cheerful stuff too.
Of course, all approaches to lighting have both advantages and disadvantages but why do I prefer to use real studio lighting whenever possible (either mains or battery powered)?
Basically 5 reasons (5 if you include cost).
1. The ability to shape the light. Please see this article. Of course, you can shape the light using hotshoe flashes but the light shaping tools available for hotshoe flashes, whether home made or bought, are nowhere near as good as those available for studio flashes. Where can you get a fresnel spot or a focussing spot for a hotshoe flash? Whats the point of using a 3 diameter beauty dish when the job calls for one 10 x the size? How can you get a true softbox light with a hotshoe flash fitted with a fixed reflector, when the light needs to bounce around inside the softbox, not just light the inner diffuser?
2. And then theres the question of power. People ask endless questions about flash power and I havent got a lot to add to this, Ive given my views in this article. But the fact of the matter is that hotshoe flashes produce very little power compared to decent quality studio flashes. True, the guide numbers tend to be fairly high (if exaggerated) but those guide numbers are obtained by using super-efficient reflectors, not by actual power. The march of technology and the improvements to high ISO image quality is definitely helping the hotshoe flash users here, because the better high ISO quality of todays digital cameras means that high ISO is nowhere near as bad as it was even a couple of years ago but still a long way behind the native ISO quality.
3. And then theres colour temperature to consider. Decent quality studio flashes produce very consistent colour temperature and hotshoe flashes dont. Whether thats important or not, or just how important it is, depends on personal needs as well as on the type of photography. Again, the needs of photojournalists and family portrait photographers can be very different from advertising photographers.
4. And then theres usage to consider, which is related to power and image quality. My guess is that a high ISO was used for this photo but I cant tell because the exif data has been stripped out. The simple fact of the matter is that using high ISO settings to make up for inadequate power is fine for internet use or newsprint, but not for large prints. People like me, who often need to produce very high quality and very large prints for uses such as trade exhibitions (where they get viewed from extremely close distances) need to start off with the best possible image quality.
And finally, Id like to comment on this point.
With all due respect Garry, I'm not convinced that your feelings on the subject are balanced, I still feel that as you have access to gear the rest of us mortals don't have so freely, you don't consider the capabilities very fairly.
No, my views probably arent balanced, simply because Ive used both approaches and because most of my own work is studio based.
As for equipment, I made my choices years ago. I decided that Bron was the best choice for me but simply couldnt afford it at that time so I went for the top quality range produced by a 2nd-rate alternative (that many forum readers probably think is the bees knees) and spent a lot of money on flash equipment and a great deal more on light shaping tools. All paid for with my own money, because at that time I didnt have a manufacturer who wanted me to advise them on their product development. True, I now have a very full range of Lencarta equipment in my studio but if I didnt then Id have bought it anyway.
With all due respect Garry, I'm not convinced that your feelings on the subject are balanced, I still feel that as you have access to gear the rest of us mortals don't have so freely, you don't consider the capabilities very fairly.
If you have a closer look at Dustin's work, studio flashes would make his project close to impossible, especially considering his commitments and daily routine aside of the project itself.
http://photography.dustindiaz.com/
Have a look at this picture:
http://bighugelabs.com/flickr/onblac...596&size=large
Our tastes my differ but I'm sure you can appreciate that it's one damn fine piece of photography?
Taken from this thread http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=141593 - Ive started a new thread because I dont want to hijack the other one.
Let me set out my stall
Im not against using hotshoe flashes. Great bits of kit, especially for those of us who use the Nikon system, which I believe to be by far the best when it comes to hotshoe flash.
And a great way of creating light, especially for photojournalists and others who need to shoot on location without the need to carry around delicate and heavy alternatives, and for whom the need to create some kind of lighting any kind of lighting is what really matters. Thats why the Strobist approach was developed, even if not by the site that promotes it so well.
But the approach has developed beyond all recognition and is now hailed as an alternative to studio lighting, with very complicated (and very expensive) flash equipment, a multitude of top-end radio triggers, and fingers of both hands firmly crossed, hoping that the complicated linking systems all actually work Of course, not everyone advocates using a host of overpriced branded hotshoe flashes, there are others who do wonderful work using a collection of cheap and cheerful stuff too.
Of course, all approaches to lighting have both advantages and disadvantages but why do I prefer to use real studio lighting whenever possible (either mains or battery powered)?
Basically 5 reasons (5 if you include cost).
1. The ability to shape the light. Please see this article. Of course, you can shape the light using hotshoe flashes but the light shaping tools available for hotshoe flashes, whether home made or bought, are nowhere near as good as those available for studio flashes. Where can you get a fresnel spot or a focussing spot for a hotshoe flash? Whats the point of using a 3 diameter beauty dish when the job calls for one 10 x the size? How can you get a true softbox light with a hotshoe flash fitted with a fixed reflector, when the light needs to bounce around inside the softbox, not just light the inner diffuser?
2. And then theres the question of power. People ask endless questions about flash power and I havent got a lot to add to this, Ive given my views in this article. But the fact of the matter is that hotshoe flashes produce very little power compared to decent quality studio flashes. True, the guide numbers tend to be fairly high (if exaggerated) but those guide numbers are obtained by using super-efficient reflectors, not by actual power. The march of technology and the improvements to high ISO image quality is definitely helping the hotshoe flash users here, because the better high ISO quality of todays digital cameras means that high ISO is nowhere near as bad as it was even a couple of years ago but still a long way behind the native ISO quality.
3. And then theres colour temperature to consider. Decent quality studio flashes produce very consistent colour temperature and hotshoe flashes dont. Whether thats important or not, or just how important it is, depends on personal needs as well as on the type of photography. Again, the needs of photojournalists and family portrait photographers can be very different from advertising photographers.
4. And then theres usage to consider, which is related to power and image quality. My guess is that a high ISO was used for this photo but I cant tell because the exif data has been stripped out. The simple fact of the matter is that using high ISO settings to make up for inadequate power is fine for internet use or newsprint, but not for large prints. People like me, who often need to produce very high quality and very large prints for uses such as trade exhibitions (where they get viewed from extremely close distances) need to start off with the best possible image quality.
And finally, Id like to comment on this point.
With all due respect Garry, I'm not convinced that your feelings on the subject are balanced, I still feel that as you have access to gear the rest of us mortals don't have so freely, you don't consider the capabilities very fairly.
No, my views probably arent balanced, simply because Ive used both approaches and because most of my own work is studio based.
As for equipment, I made my choices years ago. I decided that Bron was the best choice for me but simply couldnt afford it at that time so I went for the top quality range produced by a 2nd-rate alternative (that many forum readers probably think is the bees knees) and spent a lot of money on flash equipment and a great deal more on light shaping tools. All paid for with my own money, because at that time I didnt have a manufacturer who wanted me to advise them on their product development. True, I now have a very full range of Lencarta equipment in my studio but if I didnt then Id have bought it anyway.