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I always take phone snaps at various stages because it helps to remember when planted and how they did and so on.Blimey, it looks like we might have to start another forum just for the veg growers.![]()
I always take phone snaps at various stages because it helps to remember when planted and how they did and so on.Blimey, it looks like we might have to start another forum just for the veg growers.![]()
Looking at your fig photo you have several ties round it — not cutting into the bark is it?
You probably know this but in the Autumn any fig you can grasp twixt finger and thumb should be removed— they’ll overwinter and grow a bit but never develop. This year’s figs are the almost invisible ones. You get two crops in warmer climes and I keep leaving the small ones on in the hopes that global warming will give me the s3cond crop but no good so far!It has had no support for about a year, but I'll have to sort out the tiny figs as I counted about 80. Mind you last year the tree sorted itself out as I only had 16 figs and they didn't mature.
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Blimey, it looks like we might have to start another forum just for the veg growers.![]()
Just had a thought. The traditional method was to dig a big hole and line the sides with paving slabs, ie not the base. If yours is in a pot even with holes in the base it may get waterlogged.Agree I've had mine for about 3 years but I'll have to study mine as I did what they suggested and planted in a large container in the ground ......
Just had a thought. The traditional method was to dig a big hole and line the sides with paving slabs, ie not the base. If yours is in a pot even with holes in the base it may get waterlogged.
The aaaarrrnswer loys in the soyill.Blimey, it looks like we might have to start another forum just for the veg growers.![]()

Oh my, the first two carrots have popped their heads through the soil.
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Carrots are quite tough and don't seem to have many enemies, I used to get some with holes in mine and were probably caused by slugs or woodlice..or maybe it was the carrot root fly causing them.
Rabbits with stepladders? Be afraid, be very afraid!Ours are in a raised bed, about 2 feet above ground, so hopefully too high for carrot fly.
We use a lot of peppers so might have a go growing them even though they consistently need warm temps![]()
There’s a minimum soil temperature for tomato germination and seedlings — 55C*I think. One solution for heating the greenhouse is to use the polythene bubble sheeting to cut off a section (and line the walls) making a greenhouse within a greenhouse. Electric soil warming cable if you have power there.Well I've learnt one thing is that an unheated greenhouse at this time of the year is quite useless for tomato seedlings as they are not growing much compared to the tomatoes on the bedroom widow sill, which are shooting up and amusingly are bent over to catch the light, I've had to split bamboo canes for sticks to support them.
H'mm if my peppers need warmth to grow I'm going to have the same problem...and it would be too expensive to heat a greenhouse unless full of plants.
There’s a minimum soil temperature for tomato germination and seedlings — 55C I think
There’s a minimum soil temperature for tomato germination and seedlings — 55C I think
If temperature is kept consistently and sufficiently warm, your tomato seeds will usually germinate within 5 to 10 days. Best to keep temperature range 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). The lower the temperature the slower the germination. However, temperatures below 50F (10C) or above 95F (35C) are poor for germination. (Some varieties need more time to germinate.) When seeds start coming up remove tray from plastic bag.
Absolutely! I wasted some time trying to work out how to put a degree symbol into my iPad and then lost the plot. (Found it now 55°F !)er, are you sure you don't mean 55°F - 55C is pretty much death valley in a heatwave...
https://www.tomatofest.com/tomato_seeds_how_to_seed_starting_instructions_s/116.htm
We, finally, have two leeks popping up.![]()



Depends on how many frosts we get before the blossom is fertilised... and tonight's forecast is -3 C. No doubt some will set and fruit, but it's anyone's guess as to whether or not it's a good year for sloes at this stage.We went for a walk tonight and discovered absolutely loads of flowering blackthorns. Hopefully it's going to be a good year for sloes!![]()
I've had kombucha a few times, it's quite nice to be honest.
That "SCOBY" looks gross though![]()

20th March and on the order said it would be sent within 6 days.....the problem is: - it is a bare root pear tree and it's getting late in the year for planting as we are having warm weather and my other pear tree will blossom soon.
Well an update: - the tree arrived today..h'mm I'd give £2 at the bootie for it as all the branches have been cut off (they were thin anyway) and there are stubs left about 3" max long and some of these have tiny buds forming, will it pickup into a decent tree is anyone's guess. BUT I can't complain as they have appologised over a few emails and on del note and said "no charge"
So they seem OK as a supplier but maybe it's best not to order in March, although I have read several excuses about the delay in del and the latest was computer problems
They were going to charge £14.94 inc del for it but the nursery down the the road were selling a potted one for £25 with plenty of branches and blossom and it would have been a better buy.
At what point does a stick become a tree and vise versa?
This might still bounce back in a few years, but I doubt there'll be any fruit in less than 5 years.
@excalibur2
Brian, it's a bare root tree, this is how they are, it can take a while after planting before anything happens. We bought 5 cordon trees (i.e smaller versions that can grow in pots) and after about 3/4 weeks they began to produce leaves, the pear has a good few flowers already and I'll post some photos tomorrow. The only one that has not done anything is the apple, still dormant but it can be into June before apples get their mojo on. So, patience Brian, patience, you may well get something next year.![]()

but if in town Wilko are doing them for £1.
For Italian varieties look for “Vita Sementi® Italian Seeds”, sold in some garden centres and online - such as Thompson and Morgan who I notice are adding their branding to them. You usually get a very large number of seeds.Just noticed if you want to grow spinach (lazio) they are 50p a packet (reduced from £1) in Wilko h'mm I got ripped off with my buy as it was all in Italian and only got 25 seeds, with Wilko you get 200
For Italian varieties look for “Vita Sementi® Italian Seeds”, sold in some garden centres and online - such as Thompson and Morgan who I notice are adding their branding to them. You usually get a very large number of seeds.
Also some people harvest as “baby leaves” and/or sprouts for which large numbers are an advantage....just to add: - if any newbie is wondering why you would want many seeds, well the losses on some vegetables are quite great as some wont germinate if the temp is too hot or cold, or soil is too wet and they rot, and then you have to separate the strong from the weak.
For my variety of spinach Lazio out of nine seeds planted only four became seedlings and one just died so only have three now.....my pepper seeds are a bit of a disaster as one variety of seedlings are coming up and another nothing at all
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